FC3S.ORG's CF Cooling Panel
#51
Originally posted by Bukwild
Ryde or Die, can you test your highway speed temps? Only reason I ask is that it seems to behave all except on the highway. Also did you put the stock fan shroud on the Fluidine?
Ryde or Die, can you test your highway speed temps? Only reason I ask is that it seems to behave all except on the highway. Also did you put the stock fan shroud on the Fluidine?
Yep stock fan shroud on the fluidyne. And on the highway your temps shouldn't be high since you should have alot of airflow.
#52
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by jon88se
IMHO e-fans are generally not properly shrouded and don't pull the same air as the OEM fan. I think the stock fan works great, no reason to change it. The FC charging system also stinks so I wouldn't want to tax it with an e-fan. So, to me an e-fan over works the electrical system in the car just for a slight loss of parasitic drag on the motor and zero cooling bonus.
IMHO e-fans are generally not properly shrouded and don't pull the same air as the OEM fan. I think the stock fan works great, no reason to change it. The FC charging system also stinks so I wouldn't want to tax it with an e-fan. So, to me an e-fan over works the electrical system in the car just for a slight loss of parasitic drag on the motor and zero cooling bonus.
One of the big problems is finding an electric fan with enough airflow capacity. I try to look for anything over 2,000CFM, and more is always better.
I know the (Perma Cool?) finger chopper claims high CFM, but it has NO shrouding.
Those Black Magic M150 fans look okay. I had three of them running on three FC's that we were tuning up in CZ, and they worked good enough to keep those cars cool.
-Ted
#53
What about removing the Thermovalve In the Oil Cooler and tap/plug the "bridge" to assist In (under) cooling?
I dropped my Underbelly Pan today to see about relocating It. Their Is not much that can be done unless I replace my new RB Lines, which I'm reluctant to do.
I dropped my Underbelly Pan today to see about relocating It. Their Is not much that can be done unless I replace my new RB Lines, which I'm reluctant to do.
#54
"Yep stock fan shroud on the fluidyne. And on the highway your temps shouldn't be high since you should have alot of airflow."
I dropped Kevin Landers a email and we will try this on my car soon. I will post results. Now who has the best prices on a fluidyne rad?
I dropped Kevin Landers a email and we will try this on my car soon. I will post results. Now who has the best prices on a fluidyne rad?
#56
I got mine from www.absoluteradiator.com
I know its not cheap by any means but I've had NO problems with it at all. I always thought Koyo was equal to fluidyne, but I'm not so sure with all these people with cooling issues and they have koyos.
I know its not cheap by any means but I've had NO problems with it at all. I always thought Koyo was equal to fluidyne, but I'm not so sure with all these people with cooling issues and they have koyos.
#59
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by silverrotor
What about removing the Thermovalve In the Oil Cooler and tap/plug the "bridge" to assist In (under) cooling?
What about removing the Thermovalve In the Oil Cooler and tap/plug the "bridge" to assist In (under) cooling?
Oddly enough, oil pressure dropped significantly (another 5psi at idle).
-Ted
#60
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But any problems w/ lower oil pressure at high RPM?
I've got an RE swap in an FC. With stock rad, too much antifreeze and a stock RE fan at the moment. Gonna try to go w/ a Electric fan. This thread is freaking me out. Might try pulling the thermo pellet and the Thermostat.
I've got an RE swap in an FC. With stock rad, too much antifreeze and a stock RE fan at the moment. Gonna try to go w/ a Electric fan. This thread is freaking me out. Might try pulling the thermo pellet and the Thermostat.
Last edited by RevinRx7; 07-02-04 at 02:34 AM.
#63
A word on the Oil Thermovalve found at the Cooler. Don't do It. Atleast In my experience I found temps to be higher than the opposite. I swapped my Cooler In favour of an A1 one. Results? Same as before I got the Idea to shim it.
As for my e-fan, I am running a flex-a-lite 150. Ofcourse It's getting 12v. I'm running a FD Alternator and a Yellow Top.
As for my e-fan, I am running a flex-a-lite 150. Ofcourse It's getting 12v. I'm running a FD Alternator and a Yellow Top.
#64
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The Koyo will accept the stock shrowd....but will do so a bit reluctantly. The Koyo is SO big, that the shrowd has a bit of trouble reaching the vertical mounting points. The top and bottom mounting points are fine. Its possible with a little persuasion to get it all to fit.
-a
-a
#65
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Ive already been through the problems many of you are having......
When you add a FMIC it DEFINITELY affects the cooling system on your car. You NEED an upgraded radiator. Granted i live in Sacramento where its gets up to 110 in the summers, but i have solutions for you.
This is what i did, and ive never had problems since:
Installed huge radiator (i have a mazdacomp)
Installed a Black Magic fan. I tried others, none were sufficient to cool the car. This is the one to get. Also DO NOT get it with the thermostat built into the housing. I did that and it wore a hole in my 600 dollar radiator!! Fortunately i was able to fix it.
Cut out the front of your car to let more air in. This makes a noticeable difference. HOWEVER, it would be a more beneficial mod with a vented hood since you will be bringing large amounts of air in, without enough "exhaust" for the heated air. Why do i think this? Because my car BARELY stays at the thermostat levels when im just cruising around or idling, but creeps up at high speeds. Venting the hood would solve this.
DUCTING DUCTING DUCTING
I spent 2 days building aluminum ducts in combination with Air conditioning foam strips (the 1.5" x 1.5" ones) to creat a COMPLETE SEAL so ALL AIR had to go through the cooling system and not leak around. THIS MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!
Added another 2nd gen oil cooler. Now oil temps in the pan are always fantastic
I hope this helps out everyone thats having heat problems!!!!!
Graham
When you add a FMIC it DEFINITELY affects the cooling system on your car. You NEED an upgraded radiator. Granted i live in Sacramento where its gets up to 110 in the summers, but i have solutions for you.
This is what i did, and ive never had problems since:
Installed huge radiator (i have a mazdacomp)
Installed a Black Magic fan. I tried others, none were sufficient to cool the car. This is the one to get. Also DO NOT get it with the thermostat built into the housing. I did that and it wore a hole in my 600 dollar radiator!! Fortunately i was able to fix it.
Cut out the front of your car to let more air in. This makes a noticeable difference. HOWEVER, it would be a more beneficial mod with a vented hood since you will be bringing large amounts of air in, without enough "exhaust" for the heated air. Why do i think this? Because my car BARELY stays at the thermostat levels when im just cruising around or idling, but creeps up at high speeds. Venting the hood would solve this.
DUCTING DUCTING DUCTING
I spent 2 days building aluminum ducts in combination with Air conditioning foam strips (the 1.5" x 1.5" ones) to creat a COMPLETE SEAL so ALL AIR had to go through the cooling system and not leak around. THIS MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!
Added another 2nd gen oil cooler. Now oil temps in the pan are always fantastic
I hope this helps out everyone thats having heat problems!!!!!
Graham
#66
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Fatty_FC3S, could you perhaps post some pictures of the ducting you did, and perhaps also of the 2nd oil cooler you installed too? I'm always interested in a cooler running car
#67
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Fatty that sounds like a pretty sweet setup you got there, got any pics of that shrouding? Im going with a big pte front mount very shortly and am a bit concerned with cooling but ive already got a koyo al radiator and a beefy efan wired to a 30a relay and thermo switch I was thinking custom ducting but it would be nice to see what yours looks like.
#69
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Ill take some pics on monday. Dual oil coolers is great ( i ran them in parallel so pressure drop wouldnt be an issue). Outside temp today was 85 degrees F and my pan temps were about 190 to 200 degrees F.
By the way, your pullies (sp?) are great higgi. I got a black on and polished the rotor part. Really stands out.
By the way, your pullies (sp?) are great higgi. I got a black on and polished the rotor part. Really stands out.
#70
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Originally posted by Fatty_FC3S
Ill take some pics on monday. Dual oil coolers is great ( i ran them in parallel so pressure drop wouldnt be an issue). Outside temp today was 85 degrees F and my pan temps were about 190 to 200 degrees F.
By the way, your pullies (sp?) are great higgi. I got a black on and polished the rotor part. Really stands out.
Ill take some pics on monday. Dual oil coolers is great ( i ran them in parallel so pressure drop wouldnt be an issue). Outside temp today was 85 degrees F and my pan temps were about 190 to 200 degrees F.
By the way, your pullies (sp?) are great higgi. I got a black on and polished the rotor part. Really stands out.
#72
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Yeah, I really want to see this. Expecially the dual oil cooler, since I was devising a way to do this for a few weeks. Seeing one already done could give me another outlook on the situation, but I only planned on having it mounted directly above the old one...lateR
#73
hIGGI has some pics of his dual Oil Cooler setup somewhere on his site (I believe). I'd post It but it would take along time for me to sift through his many, many pics of the various stages of his car(s).
http://rx7cz.net/photos/
http://rx7cz.net/photos/
#74
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I also really want to see pics of the ducting done. I am getting a fmic and upgraded radiator soon. (May go with a griffin for radiator) Already have an e-fan (not installed). This is the third time I have heard someone mention ducting making a HUGE difference. Also the dual oil cooler sounds pretty interesting too. I plan on cutting out the front "grill" or plastic things on my front bumper cover since they are all messed up anyways...other than that I had no other ideas. Ducting sounds promising. I'm still kind of debating between the Koyo, Fluidyne, and Griffin radiators though. I heard fluidyne cools best, but at 1/2 the price I could pick up a Griffin that cools nearly as well. I don't think the Koyo cools as well as the other two..just from hearing various people talk about theres in the past year.