Tihsho

Hey all,

In the process of getting some after market gauges by Innovative Motorsports setup so I can get some granular detail on what's going on as well as to data log everything.

While I was setting up the ranges for the needle warnings for the oil temp I couldn't find the following info as a lot of it seems to be limited to each car. My Turbo 2 is fairly stock minus emissions deletes, upgraded water cooling, and an OMP delete. What I'm looking for are the following:

- Ideal oil temp range
- Acceptable, but not ideal upper temp range
- At where temps should start to be of concern

A lot of posts and articles I'm finding reference the oil temps from different points. Mazda seems to note the temp at the pan as being the most crucial since it's a mix of hot oil from the engine, plus the return of cool oil from the oil cooler. Racing Beat notes that oil should not exceed 205 Degree's Fahrenheit, but I'm noticing other builds that are mild stating 220 being 'warmed up' or 'ok'.

Is there an ideal place to tap for oil pressure and temp senders? From what I'm reading sandwich plates have notoriously failed, or so it seems for the 13B. Oil temp I'm read is best to get from the pan, but a lot of people are recommending connecting to the hot side of the engine, and I'd rather not have all my wiring that close to the Turbo or snaked through the subframe.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

The Rotary engine uses the oil for two functions. the first is to lubricate the bearings, and the bearings are huge, and they get plenty of flow. They live a pretty easy life, and basically any oil is fine, as long as its clean.

the second is for cooling. the rotary sprays oil on the inside of the rotor, much like a piston engine with piston squirters. We got to ask Jim Mederer about cooling at Sevenstock, and he kept saying Delta T, Delta is engineer talk for change in, so change in temperature. the oil going into the engine needs to be cool enough to be able to take heat away. RB says 205F, and for driving hard its a good number. if you're just cruising or parked, it can go higher.

the oil itself is probably fine to at least 250f, if not more like 280f.

how 205F at the engine inlet relates to the temp in the pan is anyones guess, you could figure it out.

if you don't like the sandwich plate, this works too https://www.rhdjapan.com/re-amemiya-...fc3s-fd3s.html

Tihsho

Thanks for the input! I'm very familiar with delta's in my line of work, and I'm glad someone was able to throw up the reference here . It just threw me that the temperature RB posted just seemed low in terms of where oil viscosity changes in relation to temperature. But that said, in the case of the point of reference for the temp it's outside of any area's of combustion which are significantly higher.

So in terms of keeping the oil viscosity within a safe threshold for a 13B is there a 'known' value of ideal temp, ok temp (but keep an eye on it from wandering up), to it's time to pull over and let it cool down and then look into what's going on?

I have no personal qualms with the idea of the sandwich plate, it basically gets the information from the pan reference source when it comes to temp as it should be in line with the feed from the pan. My concern is that everyone seems to knock the idea of the sandwich plate and bring up some concerns that make sense, but at the same time the only other option I can see for a oil temp sender location would be to drill the pan, weld a bung and go from the there which I'm able to do. Problem with that is just the senders location in reference to other things in the area and the proximity of the cables near hot surfaces. Might just be a little bit too OCD, but I'm just weighing my options and trying to find an ideal and reliable solution of mounting the senders.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that is like two questions. the oil is fine up to like 250-280f, but that is too hot for the engine. inside the engine, viscosity doesn't matter, the fluid just needs to be cool enough to remove heat from the rotor.