fc n/a crankcase ventilation help!!!
02-15-14, 08:55 AM
#1
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fc n/a crankcase ventilation help!!!
I've read every thread on proper crankcase ventilation. I am getting the lung mustard and a mixed batch of fixes for it which may or may not apply to my car. I don't have a turbo and I have all rats nets removed so from what I read I do not need a catch can. I also still have the charcoal can. Do i need a pcv hooked up or can i leave the center iron nipple capped and leave the oil fill vent open? Now the stock pcv I have is 30 years old. Where can I get a 5$ replacement. I can do up some pics if needed. Someone please end my poor crankcase ventilation problems.
02-15-14, 09:55 AM
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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This has been covered many, may times.
Line from middle iron runs to intake tube between AFM and throttle body.
Line from neck of oil filler runs through a PCV valve (just get a generic one with the appropriate sized nipples from the auto part store) to a vacuum port.
That's it.
Don't open vent unless you want to be cleaning up oil vapor from your engine bay.
If you want to incorporate a catch can then things are a little different however in my experience, there is zero reason for a catch can in an NA.
Line from middle iron runs to intake tube between AFM and throttle body.
Line from neck of oil filler runs through a PCV valve (just get a generic one with the appropriate sized nipples from the auto part store) to a vacuum port.
That's it.
Don't open vent unless you want to be cleaning up oil vapor from your engine bay.
If you want to incorporate a catch can then things are a little different however in my experience, there is zero reason for a catch can in an NA.
02-15-14, 10:28 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
This has been covered many, may times.
Line from middle iron runs to intake tube between AFM and throttle body.
Line from neck of oil filler runs through a PCV valve (just get a generic one with the appropriate sized nipples from the auto part store) to a vacuum port.
That's it.
Don't open vent unless you want to be cleaning up oil vapor from your engine bay.
If you want to incorporate a catch can then things are a little different however in my experience, there is zero reason for a catch can in an NA.
Line from middle iron runs to intake tube between AFM and throttle body.
Line from neck of oil filler runs through a PCV valve (just get a generic one with the appropriate sized nipples from the auto part store) to a vacuum port.
That's it.
Don't open vent unless you want to be cleaning up oil vapor from your engine bay.
If you want to incorporate a catch can then things are a little different however in my experience, there is zero reason for a catch can in an NA.
02-16-14, 09:59 AM
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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I described above how the lines are to be run. No Ts, no check valves.
As for the vacuum port, any vacuum port will do the job, just make sure it's an actual vacuum port and not an atmospheric port. I believe the middle port on the dynamic chamber is how the stock set up is run, so most likely it's fine.
As for the vacuum port, any vacuum port will do the job, just make sure it's an actual vacuum port and not an atmospheric port. I believe the middle port on the dynamic chamber is how the stock set up is run, so most likely it's fine.
02-16-14, 10:48 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
One more question, anyone know which pcv valve will fit. I looked at about 30 at the parts store and all were too big. What does the charcoal cannister hook up to. The line that goes across the firewall is not plugged into anything. Should it be? Sorry that's 2 more questions.
Last edited by 86rxNa; 02-16-14 at 11:07 AM.
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02-16-14, 11:31 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That can't be good, that cannister runs from the fuel tank, I thought its just vapos that come thru there. But if urs is leaking u better make sure its not fuel leaking on ur header. You gonna burn her down.
02-16-14, 03:25 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Well I got the pcv hooked up just like Aaron decribed. Only thing was the pcv valve wasn't exactly the right sizes. So I rigged it up anyway with old adapters and it didnt leak any air so I guess it will be fine. Only time will tell if the lung mustard goes away. Ty for all the help.
02-17-14, 07:19 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Still got the lung mustard. No one has mentioned what I should do with the charcoal line. I'm thinking this needs to T into the lower oil fill port on the iron. As of now its an open line running under the car.
02-17-14, 07:41 PM
#11
I have a S5 NA with all stock emissions and still get the "lung mustard" occasionally.
Taking short trips in cold weather ("short" defined as "not long enough for the oil to come to temp") will produce just this phenomenon, regardless of your evap arrangement.
Taking short trips in cold weather ("short" defined as "not long enough for the oil to come to temp") will produce just this phenomenon, regardless of your evap arrangement.
02-19-14, 12:15 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
I hooked it up with the T yesterday, after all the stuff I read it made sense to me finally. My BAC had been disconnected and I didnt realize it so with all this stuff hooked up it has changed my cars behavior. Also my clutch switch has been disconnected. It had affected my idle somehow awhile back so I just left it unhooked. I think I'm going to reconnect it and try to adjust idle and tps again and see what happens.
02-19-14, 02:59 PM
#14
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Got everything hooked back up and during the tps adjusting I noticed a few things. I had forgotten but last time I adjusted my tps there was a weird clicking. Well this time I heard it again. Then noticed it stopped when I pushed down on the throttle. So I ended up changing the tps 4 or 5 times to get it halfway right. So tps is dead on 1v now. I actually heard 2 different clicking noises during my adjusting. 1 sounded like a fast click click click click. The other was different, slower and a little deeper tone. I swear the second one was the PD. Any ideas? The car is back running decent although the idle was a little high. I got tired of messing with it for today.
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