i know there has to be a walk through thread on this but i cant seem to find anything. someone point me in the right direction please

 

This is how it goes. Not gonna include small details because I'm tired as hell. But I'll include what I can think of...

Most of it will be 14mm, 12mm. You will need sockets and wrenches.

Jack car up

Unbolt drive shaft from diff, but leave the front in the tranny(So tranny fluid doesn't get all over you.. nasty sh*t)

Remove starter bolts/starter(one bolts into the block, the other has a nut on the other side, and will need to be held with a wrench)

Remove bell housing bolts

Remove shifter lever If necessary

Put Jack under transmission

Remove tranny mount

Slide tranny back until input shaft it clears pressure plate

Lower Jack

Done with tranny..

Remove all the pressure plate bolts(8 I think?)

Pull it off(duh)

Next is the hard part(1 of two)

To remove the 2 1/8 flywheel nut you will need a flywheel stopper or impact gun.(I can make you a flywheel stopper for $10 +shipping if needed)

Once removed, use a deadblow hammer to break it lose. Its press fitted so give it a good bang, but try to find a nice place to hit it. Preferably on a high spot where the pressure plate bolts up.


That's pretty much it. Do everything in reverse to put it back together, and make sure everything is torqued to spec. You can find the specs by searching exactly this in google:

"Torque specs site:rx7club.com"

 

Forgot the second hard part.

The bullsh*t pilot bearing.

Just buy the remover from mazdatrix, PLEASE do not waste your time with pullers, wax tricks, toilet paper tricks, or anything like that. Seriously DON'T.

WORST TIME OF MY LIFE.

I can usually do a clutch in 3-5 hours. But I spent LITERALLY 20+ hours on the pilot bearing ALONE. And trashed the inside of my e shaft in the process of digging out that piece of sh*t bearing race.

 

thanks man, appreciate it

 

Let me know if you need a flywheel stopper made. I have material laying around. I can make it in 5 minutes

 

If the flywheel isn't scored you don't need to take it off.
I've done more cars that you can shake a stick at that I just replaced the Clutch/PP and bearings.Slapped it together.Worked fine.
Now if you want to get technical,then you can get it resurfaced.(this would be the "totally Correct way of doing things").But sometimes you can save a buck or two..ya know.

Personally I would drop the 20 some odd pounds and get a light flywheel,but that is just me.Ever since I owned thses cars,I opt to go with a lighter flywheel.
Why?..because there are Tons of threads saying I can!..lol..and I read too much and get influenced easily!

(hey look,gas powered turtle neck sweaters are On Sale on Ebay..gotta go!)

 

On the pilot bearing stuff. I'd suggest buying the bearing, seal, and the driver for it from Mazdatrix. Save yourself some cash on the puller and get the one from Harbor Freight. It is only $75 instead of $115.

Blind Hole Bearing Puller - Needle Bearing Puller

 

same link has the 3 jaw puller on at 17.99

I just saw a thread where it was used to yank one.

 

+1 for Styx. I have the 3-jaw puller from Harbor Freight and am quite pleased with it. Does need the jaws ground down a bit to slip inside the pilot bearing, but it works, works well and is very inexpensive.

From a physics perspective, the 3-jaw puller will always work better than one based on a slide hammer. Force = Mass x Velocity

If the slide hammer has a 1kg (2.2 lbs) weight and can be accelerated to 10mph (4.4704 meters/second), it imparts 4.4704 Newtons of force on the bearing. In English units, this is about 1.005 Pound-Feet of torque. I would imagine that if a small child could grip the bearing with their fingers, they could do better than this.

This brings us to the other part of the problem: Acceleration. We can't change the mass of the slide, so the only factor we can adjust is the Velocity, which is dependant on the slide's length. IIRC, most slide hammers are rather short, so getting the weight moving fast enough to develop sufficient force on the bearing would prove rather difficult. As seen above, 10mph only generated 1 pound of torque, inferring that only a ludicrous amount of Velocity can generate sufficient force to pull the bearing out. If it takes 30 Ft.lbs of torque to extract the bearing, the slide weight would need to be accelerated to 300 MPH!. Somehow, I don't think that's going to happen on a 6-12" slide...

On the flipside, the 3-Jaw pullers use Rotary-based Leverage to impart force on the bearing for extraction. This is a very efficient way of imparting large amounts of force with little effort, due to the multiplication factor of the lever(s) involved. Going back to the equation above, let's crunch the numbers again

If the lever is 5:1 in its multiplication, ever pound of input force generates 5 pounds of torque, or Mass for this example, on the other side. For the same of example, we'll put 10kg (22 pounds) of force on the puller's input side (50kg/110 pounds output) and say that it moves at 1mph (0.447 meters/second).

MA = Force
110 x 0.447 = 49.17 Kg/M
49.17 is about 33.04 Pound-Feet of torque placed on the bearing, when cranking the puller at the crawling speed of 1mph. Since most of us crank a ratchet faster than that, let's redo the math at 5MPH now

110 x 2.235 = 245.85 Kg/M
Now we're generating 165.2 pounds of torque on the bearing.

Half the effort and over 150 times the force, which gets the job done quicker? Leverage Wins!

 

another calculation for ya: ODFCO+D=RPB

One determined FC owner with a dremel equals a removed pilot bearing.