FC hard to start!!!
01-03-13, 08:06 PM
#1
FC hard to start!!!
Here's the story:
Engine (s4 tii) is Japanese spec bought from ALN JDM Auto Motors, LLC. and has said to have around 60,000 miles give or take. I installed the engine using my old tranny and it ran fine. Compression checked out at 90psi at both front and rear rotors when I first installed the engine.
Some background info:
The car idled at 1000 rpm and the TPS read at 1.3V, anything lower and the idle would surge.
In order for me to get the car smogged (in CA) I need to install an EGR valve to pass the visual part of the test. The J-spec LIM unfortunately does not have a place where one can bolt on an EGR valve, so I had to replace the whole LIM with a US one.
Within a span of 2 weeks (no time because of Christmas season), I was able to replace the LIM, putting in new gaskets and checking for any loose or cracked vacuum lines, and install the EGR.
The Situation:
Yesterday was the first time I started the car, started right up, so I let it idle for about 5 mins before I took it for a test drive and drove fine. Today, I tried to take it to a smog station (about 10miles away) and coming out of the freeway, it died on me.
When I tried to start it again it would rev up to 1000 rpm and die, usually it revs up to 3k and drops down after a few secs (I don't have the CSA). The only way that it would start would be if I were to push the gas pedal and keep the rpm above 2k. I let the car cool down for about 30-45mins and then drove it home. At the stop signs, the car would die if the rpm wasn't above 2k. I hopped on the freeway, keeping the rpm above 2k and it seemed to run fine when I was shifting.
I'm not sure what the problem could be. The car feels like something is pinching a vacuum line not letting air go in, but when I start the car and keep the idle at 2k, it doesn't surge or act like theirs a leak or suffocation of air.
The Problem:
The problem is only when I try to start the car, it will not rev up to 3000 rpm when starting, revs only to 1k and does NOT hold an idle. Like I said, only when give it gas, will it stay alive. I drove it fine on the freeway keeping it above 2000 rpm.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and if any more information is needed please feel free to let me know
Update: Just did a compression check and front reads 85-90psi and rear reads above 90psi
Engine (s4 tii) is Japanese spec bought from ALN JDM Auto Motors, LLC. and has said to have around 60,000 miles give or take. I installed the engine using my old tranny and it ran fine. Compression checked out at 90psi at both front and rear rotors when I first installed the engine.
Some background info:
The car idled at 1000 rpm and the TPS read at 1.3V, anything lower and the idle would surge.
In order for me to get the car smogged (in CA) I need to install an EGR valve to pass the visual part of the test. The J-spec LIM unfortunately does not have a place where one can bolt on an EGR valve, so I had to replace the whole LIM with a US one.
Within a span of 2 weeks (no time because of Christmas season), I was able to replace the LIM, putting in new gaskets and checking for any loose or cracked vacuum lines, and install the EGR.
The Situation:
Yesterday was the first time I started the car, started right up, so I let it idle for about 5 mins before I took it for a test drive and drove fine. Today, I tried to take it to a smog station (about 10miles away) and coming out of the freeway, it died on me.
When I tried to start it again it would rev up to 1000 rpm and die, usually it revs up to 3k and drops down after a few secs (I don't have the CSA). The only way that it would start would be if I were to push the gas pedal and keep the rpm above 2k. I let the car cool down for about 30-45mins and then drove it home. At the stop signs, the car would die if the rpm wasn't above 2k. I hopped on the freeway, keeping the rpm above 2k and it seemed to run fine when I was shifting.
I'm not sure what the problem could be. The car feels like something is pinching a vacuum line not letting air go in, but when I start the car and keep the idle at 2k, it doesn't surge or act like theirs a leak or suffocation of air.
The Problem:
The problem is only when I try to start the car, it will not rev up to 3000 rpm when starting, revs only to 1k and does NOT hold an idle. Like I said, only when give it gas, will it stay alive. I drove it fine on the freeway keeping it above 2000 rpm.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and if any more information is needed please feel free to let me know
Update: Just did a compression check and front reads 85-90psi and rear reads above 90psi
01-04-13, 07:19 PM
#3
So, I re-did the test using the Banzai racing compression test and I got three even bounces on both front and rear.
The other day, before I drove it, I messed around with the rich and lean setting under the hood, and I think i might have put it too lean. Would this cause it to act in this way?
The other day, before I drove it, I messed around with the rich and lean setting under the hood, and I think i might have put it too lean. Would this cause it to act in this way?
01-04-13, 07:34 PM
#4
The variable resistor is only for idle mixture.
Check for spark now. See if one of the coils or ignitors went bad. You can use a cheap spark tester from a parts store (safe way) or you can pull off a plug wire from the spark plug and hold it near a good ground while someone cranks the engine. If you see a good blue spark, you know you're good. That's a little bit of a risky way though. I got shocked through the sack doing that one time. Turned out that the wire had a little hole in it (which was right where my hand was), and I was leaning over the fender during mid summer in South Carolina, so my pants were saturated with sweat. You never want to take 20KV through the sack... it's not fun. I highly recommend the cheap spark tester.
Check for spark now. See if one of the coils or ignitors went bad. You can use a cheap spark tester from a parts store (safe way) or you can pull off a plug wire from the spark plug and hold it near a good ground while someone cranks the engine. If you see a good blue spark, you know you're good. That's a little bit of a risky way though. I got shocked through the sack doing that one time. Turned out that the wire had a little hole in it (which was right where my hand was), and I was leaning over the fender during mid summer in South Carolina, so my pants were saturated with sweat. You never want to take 20KV through the sack... it's not fun. I highly recommend the cheap spark tester.
01-04-13, 08:28 PM
#5
So, if I were to put it too too lean, the car would still be able to start up and hit 3k?
I'll get one of those cheap spark testers tomorrow and try it the risk free way haha. The thing is, the car starts up every time, but it dies after reaching 1000 rpm. I believe I have good spark, but either way I'll go out and get one.
I had a similar problem like the one I'm having now when I was re-installing the Mazda Air- filter with a cheap ebay one, the car would start up but die rapidly, not going to 3k. When I had that problem, I knew it was due to a major vacc leak somewhere around the intake because that was the only thing I messed around with. This time however, I removed a lot more things and I feel like either I forgot to plug something in or theirs a major vacc leak somewhere. The thing is, I drove it and it ran fine a few days ago and the compression/ bounce test checks out good (Thank the rotary God my engine isn't in rotary hell) so it seems really weird?
Tomorrow I'll check for spark and double check the vac lines on the left side of the engine and the electrical connections.
I'll get one of those cheap spark testers tomorrow and try it the risk free way haha. The thing is, the car starts up every time, but it dies after reaching 1000 rpm. I believe I have good spark, but either way I'll go out and get one.
I had a similar problem like the one I'm having now when I was re-installing the Mazda Air- filter with a cheap ebay one, the car would start up but die rapidly, not going to 3k. When I had that problem, I knew it was due to a major vacc leak somewhere around the intake because that was the only thing I messed around with. This time however, I removed a lot more things and I feel like either I forgot to plug something in or theirs a major vacc leak somewhere. The thing is, I drove it and it ran fine a few days ago and the compression/ bounce test checks out good (Thank the rotary God my engine isn't in rotary hell) so it seems really weird?
Tomorrow I'll check for spark and double check the vac lines on the left side of the engine and the electrical connections.
01-05-13, 12:56 PM
#7
Just checked the voltage of the injectors at the ECU and all four of them read 12 volts. Still need to check for spark. If one of my primary injectors were clogged badly, this would cause the car to not want to start because only one of them is working, right?
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01-18-13, 08:08 PM
#10
So in the span of two weeks, I sent my injectors to get clean and flow tested at WitchHunter Performance, got a few feet of silicone hoses and redid the entire vacuum lines, cleaned my TB and UIM, secured some electrical wires, and I'm in the process of doing the "NA to Twin scroll solenoid system". I also checked the clearance on my TB and checked if the thermovalve was working, they both checked out.
With this said, everything is ready to be put back together but was wondering what peoples opinions are on using silicone for BAC to TB coolant line.
Also, should I check for anything else?
With this said, everything is ready to be put back together but was wondering what peoples opinions are on using silicone for BAC to TB coolant line.
Also, should I check for anything else?
01-27-13, 09:43 PM
#13
So I re-installed everything, cleaned injectors, new vac lines, cleaned the TB and de-greased all the springs and screws on the TB and it starts up fine! i test drove it only for a while and from what I felt and saw, it runs better than before. I believe the culprit must have been one of my vac lines near the spiders nest because that's the only place in which I really messed around in.
Another thing I found, the person who sold me the US UIM did not have one of those catch-cans that go where you place the secondary injectors. Not sure if it was a factor for my problem, but may have contributed. I noticed it didn't have one because when I finished installing the injectors, they where uneven.
I redid all my vac lines and cleaned and flow-tested the injectors. Those where the only two things I changed during this whole process. The injectors checked out(turns out they really didn't need any cleaning but oh well) so that only leaves the vacuum lines. In the end, it turns out that my major problem was a vacuum leak.
Thanks for all the help and support, another Rotary saved!
Another thing I found, the person who sold me the US UIM did not have one of those catch-cans that go where you place the secondary injectors. Not sure if it was a factor for my problem, but may have contributed. I noticed it didn't have one because when I finished installing the injectors, they where uneven.
I redid all my vac lines and cleaned and flow-tested the injectors. Those where the only two things I changed during this whole process. The injectors checked out(turns out they really didn't need any cleaning but oh well) so that only leaves the vacuum lines. In the end, it turns out that my major problem was a vacuum leak.
Thanks for all the help and support, another Rotary saved!
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