2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

FC Cooling issues

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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 09:01 PM
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FC Cooling issues

So I'm Australian for starters, So its REALLY HOT in summer, we are just about to go into summer now, Last summer My FC had issues with the heat, It would stall out if i wasn't constantly revving, Around corners it would randomly start stuttering and stall, Anyways, It's beginning to get hotter and I've already noticed in longer drives the same problems are starting, It's not getting too hot yet, (Engine is sitting at 75-85 Celsius now, Last summer it would go anywhere from 80-115) I want to get on top of this before it gets properly hot again, So I need ideas, Would taking out the clear pass light lenses and leaving the holes through the bumper help? It's a S4, But the engine is from a S5 Tii, But it's N/A and has a carby, I already have an aftermarket radiator and thermo fan, But no shroud, I can't seem to find any shrouds, But I think that might help.

Cheers.

(I know its a mess in there)
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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 09:36 AM
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I don't think the shroud is your problem. What I did notice is it looks like you don't have the plastic undertray anymore. Getting that replaced would be a start. Also either find the stock plastic pieces that go between the nose and the radiator support or one of the aftermarket panels. These two pieces help to force incoming air through the radiator rather than finding a path around it. Also put in a new thermostat since they're cheap. Since the FTP lens has no direct path to the radiator removing it would do nothing.
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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 11:05 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
for the stalling, you will want to warm it up, and adjust the idle mixture.
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Dak
Since the FTP lens has no direct path to the radiator removing it would do nothing.
I was more thinking for whatever reason it might help the Carby, It has an N/A hood so the intake is just sitting there without any real direct route for air.
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
for the stalling, you will want to warm it up, and adjust the idle mixture.
I've messed with the mix and idle a ton, It didn't happen when i had it running rich, but that was over winter, And i assume it was definitely too rich because it was a pain to start.
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Yokai7
I was more thinking for whatever reason it might help the Carby, It has an N/A hood so the intake is just sitting there without any real direct route for air.
Unfortunately there's still not a good path. With the headlight down the sir just hits the headlight. With the headlight up it's not much better as the metal wall behind the headlight still gets in the way. There's a small gap between the hood and the core support some of it might find its way through when the light is up.
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 09:08 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Yokai7
I've messed with the mix and idle a ton, It didn't happen when i had it running rich, but that was over winter, And i assume it was definitely too rich because it was a pain to start.
i just know that if its off either way it'll be a problem. it looks like a 48IDA Weber?

if it is, then you want the idle mixture screws around a half turn out from seated when its idling best, give or take. if its out more than that its telling you you need a richer idle jet, if its all the way in you need a leaner idle jet.
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 10:29 PM
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i agree with getting the undertray sorted. especially given the temps you referenced.

are you sure the fuel itself is not boiling?
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by diabolical1
i agree with getting the undertray sorted. especially given the temps you referenced.

are you sure the fuel itself is not boiling?
Not sure about boiling fuel, But when it does happen giving it a redline or two is a temporary fix, seems to run normal for 5-10 minutes afterwards.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 06:15 PM
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Shrouds are key. Also the panel between the front fender and the radiator support.
it is a panel.
here a a decent one at a goo price.
https://lrbspeed.com/product/rx-7-fc...cooling-panel/
or
you can make your own like did and seal it up even more using thin tin sheet metal that you can mold/shape to the parts and different surface heights.
I still run stock fan& shroud and on a Fluiddyne Rad and not having any issues.


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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 06:19 PM
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[QUOTE=mr_vaughn;12441705]Shrouds are key. Also the panel between the front fender and the radiator support.
it is a panel.
here a a decent one at a goo price.
https://lrbspeed.com/product/rx-7-fc...cooling-panel/

I don't know where to find a shroud, But i have been looking at some stuff from lrbspeed, But they don't ship to Australia
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 08:55 AM
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That e-fan is too small, and doesn't cover much of the radiator. It needs a full shroud so it isn't only drawing though the center of the rad.
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by diabolical1
are you sure the fuel itself is not boiling?
I've looked into this and it could be possible, Last time i was under the car i don't recall seeing heat shrouding on the exhaust, Could that be the issue? the exhaust boiling the petrol?
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i just know that if its off either way it'll be a problem. it looks like a 48IDA Weber?

if it is, then you want the idle mixture screws around a half turn out from seated when its idling best, give or take. if its out more than that its telling you you need a richer idle jet, if its all the way in you need a leaner idle jet.
Yesterday i had my dad tune it (He's been a mechanic for ages, his company did most of the import roadworthy's in the late 80s and 90s, apparently includes a fuckload of rx7's) and while it does runs better, It was still stalling out, It just so happened to be the only hot day recently 38C (100F).
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 10:26 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Yokai7
Yesterday i had my dad tune it (He's been a mechanic for ages, his company did most of the import roadworthy's in the late 80s and 90s, apparently includes a fuckload of rx7's) and while it does runs better, It was still stalling out, It just so happened to be the only hot day recently 38C (100F).
you might try and make some kind of heat shield for the carb, maybe it doesn't like being too hot? (my IDA doesn't like being too cold!)
i've seen people with a duct blowing fresh air at the carb too.
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