Might as well throw this one in. Got a small problem with my fuel level sensor, seems to go down extremely fast for the 1st half then sip the rest of the way but when I fill up at the pump and i'm completely empty the tank only fills up to 12 or so gallons which is about 4 gallons off since I have an S4 fuel tank (not sure if it matters if its an NA or Turbo fuel tank). what could be the cause of this?
Problem #2. was wondering how accurate the mechanical mileage indicator is on these cars. When calculating mileage should I trust it or should I use one that is GPS guided?
Problem #3: This is more of a question that a problem, but I have a Microtech LT9C ECU installed with the ability to store more than one setup. I am new to tuning (though I am going to school to get my ASE certs and my teacher knows a thing or two about tuning regular piston engines) but I got the setup I have now at Kilo Racing and was wondering how I could go about making a separate setup that is more towards economy when I absolutely need it (yes... I understand its a rotary, just work with me -_-). What should I keep in mind? what AFR should I look for? Is the microteach AFR gauge reliable enough or should I use an external one (I think my teacher has one at the school)?

I can send pictures about the current setup if you guys need it.

 

1. yea the S4 sender isn't the most linear thing in the world, i did re-bend one one time to make it linear, which was nice, but when it was on E it was EMPTY! several close calls! if you pull the sender and then turn the key on with the engine off the stock ecu doesn't run the pump, so you can cycle the float and see what the gauge does.
S4's all have the same tank.

2. its not bad, if you have the stock size wheels and tires, compare it to the GPS and see.

3a. what sensor is the microtech using? the stock narrowband? if so you'd probably want a wideband
3b. you're not going to learn how to tune an ECU at school
3c. copy over Kilo's setup, as you know it works. the safe range we can tune is idle, up to 3500rpm, under 0psi of boost. tune idle like you would with a carb, set it to where it runs the best, and then 1100-3500 under 0psi it can be leaned out to 14.7:1, this would mimic the factory setup. start slow, and make small changes and see how it reacts.

 

It is just the stock narrowband, will the shop afr guage read a lot better?
at the moment, the afr ratio on Kilo's tune is around 10 on startup and idle then it leans out to about 12 then it doesn't change very much. Ill need to pull out my laptop to see what the afr is like under boost but I do believe its anywhere in between those two numbers. I'm new to the software but If the forums can let me post videos I can record some data as I do some pulls and show it to you if you want.
Thanks for the advice. Ill post to this if I have anymore questions.
just for context. I plan to drive from Florida to Tennessee and just want to get that little but of gas mileage in if I can.