Jo.M

iTrader: (1)

took her in today thinking everything was gonna be good but i failed
i dont even know why ive been reading up a little bit and i might have to change my spark plugs oil and air filter but i wanna make sure its gonna be a fix before i start dishing out money ya know? anyway here are the numbers lemme know if someone has some idea

15 mph:
HC Max: 118; my meas: 270

25 mph:
HC max: 93; my meas: 203

everything else i passed on, thanks guys

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

How is your cat? has it ever been replaced? Those numbers are extremely high and HC is unburnt fuel. Seems like your car is running fine, you probably have a bad cat.

drifter403

iTrader: (2)

how long was your car off before the test? cat might have been to cold prior to test

Jo.M

iTrader: (1)

ive had the car for about 2 years and i havent replaced the cat on it nor the exhaust, but uh i was driving the car for about an hour before i took the test.

ohayou88

iTrader: (7)

car should be nice a warm before smog. Good oil, plugs, and air filter would help, and would probably be good for your car anyways.make sure your cat is good, and air pump is hooked up and in working condition.

Jo.M

iTrader: (1)

so i changed the plugs and oil today but its still smoking maybe not as much but still noticeable so im thinking about replacing my cat because i dont know if it has ever been replaced

daviddeep

iTrader: (4)

What do you mean "it's smoking?" You see a little smoke when you start it, or it smokes all the time? That could be a symptom of a bigger problem than the cat, like low compression.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

The airpump's where I'd start by looking at those numbers

Jo.M

iTrader: (1)

ok so for the past couple of days ive been babyin her, so far ive done an oil change and a tune up i want to check the air pump next but i decided to post a video just to see if it will make it any easier to see what kinda smoke im dealin wit and how we can fix this lol anyway here it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43A1jAhpzOw

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

WOW! Your neighbors must love you. That is some crazy smoke!

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Come on by my shop.
www.smogmaster.net

I work saturday and sunday.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Are you loosing coolant? Could be coolant, but from the numbers from your smog test, you have alot of unburnt fuel going through the exhaust. Is your idle a bit bouncy? If it is, you probably have a really bad leaking injector.

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Tune up oil change probably isn't going to help much with the HC. Its possible the catalytic converter wasn't warmed up properly by the technician, but it is more probable the air pump wasn't working at the time of the actual test. Rx7s have a huge problem with the air pump getting cold feet while running an ASM smog test. Especially FDs.

Also from the amount of smoke you are burning you probably have some worn out coolant or oil seals, which isn't a huge deal for the smog check. My 88 NA smokes just as bad as yours if not worse and it passes the smog check fine. GRANTED i have my catalytic converter in and I bang on the air pump a couple of times while running the test.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys.

is it safe to say that my Air pump and ACV are "working" ?

I unplug the tube and put my finger on it, yes air is coming out when its idle. I cant test it with 1500-2000 rpm like the FSM said cuz no one is home to help me >_<

my inspection already expired so ... planning to go have it inspect tomorrow. I have a new Magnaflow Rear direct fit CAT.

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

What kind of inspection is it over there? Are you in New York?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Here is my ongoing emission testing thread-maybe there is some help in there for you.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...emission+texas

Bet on the new cat. The old cat is likely either toasted or it is fouled by oil.


Does the smoke 'go away' after the car warms up?

The cat requires sufficient oxygen to catalyze (burn) the excess hydrocarbons. You see, if the engine smokes this much all the time, the cat *could* burn all the extra hydrocarbons from this smoke-but it would need more air than a non-smoking engine.

If you replace the cat and it doesn't pass, you can try hooking the airpump up directly to the converter. This will give you more oxygen and perhaps let you pass.

Just remember though, if the engine is smoking like this all the time it is probably time for a rebuild.

Good Luck!

HAILERS2

In the first jpg.....there should be just a whiff of air being discharged from that large nipple at idle. You don't need anybody else to rev to over 1500-2000 rpm. Just reach over to the throttle linkage and rev the engine til you think its above 2000 rpm.

When rev'd, the large nipple should discharge large volumes of air vs what you where getting at idle.

SECOND JPG: Just above the ACV are the two small vacuum hose. With a fully hot engine, pull one off at a time. Each should have vacuum on the HOSE. IF not, then there is a problem.

If both have vacuum, then put your finger on the small hose to feel for vacuum and at the same time reach over to the other side of the engine and pull the BLUE elect plug off the Relief solenoid. Vacuum should stop on the small hose.

Unfortunaltly I forget which of the two hose is the Relief hose and which is the Switching hose. Try both. Later I'll write back as to which hose should go to which metal nipple.

Download any fault codes. See if there is one for FEEDBACK. As in the 02 sensor and ECU not communicating to go into CLOSED LOOP when driving.

You said that you had air coming out the large nipple shown in my first jpg. Should be just a whiff of air. Air coming out indicates the Relief solenoid and or Switching solenoid are not doing their job or vacuum is not reaching the two small vacuum lines directly above the ACV. The vacuum hose from the Relief solenoid should be shutting off the ability of air to escape out that large nipple in the first jpg.

If air is going out that large nipple, the it is NOT going to PORT AIR. Port Air is ACV/AIRPUMP air fed to the exhaust ports inside the engine. No air going there means Failure at the smog station unlesss you have a pretty new/good catalytic converter. I mean a darn good one.

But there is another side to this. At the higher test speed, the engine/ECU should have been going into CLOSED LOOP operation. Meaning the afr coming out of the engine should have been close to 14.7 at the 25mph speed and the airpump/ACV should play a smaller role at that speed. The HC figures should have dropped much more than what is shown on your test i.e. low speed HC vs higher speed HC figures.

Jo.M

iTrader: (1)

woot! so i took it into smog today and i passed! but only barely HC's max where at 118 and i was at 118 at 15mph and at 25mph i measured 92 so thanks for all the advice people.

to answer some questions first, the car doesnt smoke crazy all the time just when i first turn the car on. I am leaking coolant but its coming from the heater hose so i dont know what going on with that. idle is a lil bouncy going between 1000 and 750 rpms only for like the first 10 minutes after turning her on

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

damn stupid me ... I never thought of that, I could've just reach to the tps and play with it ...

Will try them tomorrow.

I just connect the battery back today, havent drive it yet. I let it idle for a while tho. Do I have to drive it around for certain amount of time first ?

Yes, just a bit of air.

hmm, so does that mean when its idling, I shouldn't get any air from the large hole ? but in the FSM it saids that its "suppose" to feed air to it when idle isnt it ?

hmm, I am about to try it tomorrow (inspection), NYS requires "sniffing" test, probably not as strict as the Cali one. should I try it anyway ? if it fails its 37 bux wasted.

hmm. will see what happens tomorrow.

HAILERS2

Page FI-67, bottom of that page, says BEGINS to flow at 1500- 2500 rpm. That large nipple is at the bottom part of the ACV and normally gets a large hose on it, and that hose goes fwd to a silencer in the right front fender.

At idle no air should come out of that large nipple. But since these cars are several yrs old, some air will bypass the poppet valve and leak by.

The amount of air going out is controlled by the RELIEF solenoid on the other side of the engine. It has a Blue elect connector on it. On a NON TURBO car that solenoid is energized and that lets it pass vacuum over to the ACV and that vacuum is what pulls in the poppet valve inside the ACV that keeps air from dumping out that large nipple on the bottom side of the ACV.

At idle, the airpump air is SUPPOSED to go into passages inside the intermediate housing (Series four non turbo, not series four) then fed into holes in the rotor housings that lead to the exhaust ports. So the airpump air mixes with exhaust gasses coming out of the engine.

When you actually drive the car at speed there will be times No air goes to the exhaust ports as described above. It'll either get dumped overboard or part of it will go to the split air pipe that leads to the middle of the converter.

If you don't have a ENGINE CHECK LIGHT on your series five, I GUESS there is no code to download. I suggested looking at fault codes to see if there was one called FEEDBACK or the like, which means the engine is not going into Closed Loop while driving. If that were the case, then at the 25mph test speed, the emissions will be higher than they should be. The HC's.

Usually if you have a non turbo engine fully hot and at idle, you can simply pull the BLUE connector off the Relief solenoid and the amount of air coming out the large nipple on the bottom side of the ACV will dump more air than it was prior to removing that plug. To me that proves the Relief solenoid and its routing of vacuum to the ACV is working as it should be.

It's easy to get those two small vacuum hose above the ACV crossed. I've done it several times. Makes the ACV work wrong.

IF you've been driving around for several miles in the last few days, and have no ENGINE FAIL light, I'd forget about checking codes.


I doubt the original poster is going to pass emissions next year using the same converter. Just an opinion.

And FYI....the ACV is controlled by the TPS. When you set the TPS using the manual, your setting the trip points for both Relief and Switching solenoid which in turn control the diaphrams inside the ACV.

HAILERS2

I just checked out my non turbo car. OF the two small vacuum hose above the ACV, its the Rear vacuum hose that comes from the Relief solenoid. IF you idle the car hot, and pull that hose off, the air coming out the large nipple at the bottom of the ACV should rise dramatically.

Or if you leave that hose on, and just reach over to the BLUE connector on the Relief solenoid and pull that plug off, the amount of air coming out that large nipple at the bottom of the ACV will rise dramatically. Proving the routing of vacuum to the ACV is correct.

I've been talking only about NON TURBO cars. Turbo ACV are controlled a bit differently. Same Relief and Switching solenoids, but the routing of vacuum is different with different results.

In TX if you fail emissions, they give you a couple more shots at it later after you CLAIM to them that you fixed this, that or the other. Been there, done that. My non turbo motor converted to turbo gave me a bit of a fit. The routing of the ACV air using a Turbo intake manifold does not work unless alterations to the intermediate housing is taken.