sen2two

iTrader: (10)

has anyone tried removing the metal bars and various metal pieces on the back side of the dash. i have my dash out. and there is a lot of metal on the backside. there could be some decent weight saving if this is removed.

anyone done this? dash becomes shaky, has vibration? any down sides?

and also the bar in the front of the car where the oil cooler is bolted to. im using a different oil cooler mounted on the radiator. so how much does this bar contribute to chassis stiffness? or it just excess weight also?

i already removed the bumper brace behind the front bumper...is there an identical style brace in the rear, or does it hold the bumper on?

any other good weight savings, post it here... pictures and weight if you know them help...

WingsofWar

Sound deadner
Stock Seats
Spare Tire
Spare Tire wheel well
stock springs and struts
Stock wheels
Speakers
Door Panels
Inner Door Metal Panels
Rear Speaker Mounting Cup
Replace gastank with Fuel cell

I am just throwing out some random ideas i don't know how wild you want to save weight. Because eventually your only gona put weight back in when you get a roll cage set in place.


I wouldn't recommend removing any lateral bars unless you intend on replacing them with a different grade material.

Id also recommend reinstalling your bumper brace or fab up a new bumper brace.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

the JDM Infini IV model

Black91n/a

Removing the inner bumper pieces means that now instead of damaging the bumper in a low speed collision, you're damaging the body. It'll also make it so that in any collision, the body suffers more damage. My advice, put them back and look for other places to remove weight. I'd also shy away from removing parts from the dash support, since it is what supports the dash after all, so it would probably get floppy after.

To add to the list of place to look for weight savings:

Seats
Heater
Hatch (replace the glass with lexan, you can replace the hatch frame with fiberglass)
Stereo
Power steering
Power locks
Power windows
Carpets
Trim
Headliner
Storage bins
Sunroof
Brakes (2 piece rotors save 10lb overall)
Hood
Fenders
Rear sway bar (can easily be done away with when coilovers are used)

Basically, if it doesn't make the car stop, go or turn, it can be removed, but that changes a bit on a street car where lights, crash structures and such must be retained.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Eat tofu and date skinny chicks.

kustomizingkid

iTrader: (2)

Just start drilling holes in things... that works

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

i should have been more specific.

i would like to remove as much weight as possible without turning it into a race car. no need to state the obvious.

MMoore4545

iTrader: (7)

Most of the stuff you can pull out without noticing in the interior
will do exactly that.
you won't notice it.

you can do all the easy stuff, the Sound deadener (13ish pounds out of my 'vert)
stereo, extra plastics, etc.
though you won't loose more than 40-60 pounds.



if you want to really start loosing weight
you have to start sacrificing things. Or you get to make a bunch of custom stuff out of fiberglass! But if you're not experienced in laying it, the item in question will end up about equal weight.

honestly if you're not tracking it, it's not worth it.

full interior + cage = sexy

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

good points... and a cage with some clean interior looks sick. but have you ever removed the dash? they are HEAVY. i was looking at the tubing and other metal in there, seem to be far over done. i've seen a few FC's with no dash (track car) running with no cage. so i dont think the metal in there is to stiffin the chassis at all. i might just try removing all the metal anyway. and if the dash is a bit wobbly. i'll add some 1 inch 16 Gauge square tubing where needed. my dash is off at the moment anyways...

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

if u want to, swap the dash with a 86 / 87 base model, it still got SOME crash damping stuff there
and i'd use ROUND tubing instead of square
u ever realize why all the roll cage in ANY racing event requires round tubing ?

cmanns

Why would you wanna do this for a street car? It'll just water it down to be crappy.

kiyoshi

What FC came with 2 piece rotors?

cmanns

If you have stock exhaust?? rid of that lol

**** weighs like 50lbs if I recall, iono I didn't have fun lugging it to the backyard and putting it under the house, then again I kept it all together.

jjwalker

Yank the passenger seat and all the carpet if you are serious. Ever think about replacing the dash with aluminum sheet like they do in the racing cars?

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

None. He's referring to aftermarket rotors with separate bell and rotor.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...roducts_id=261

They're nice, but expensive.

Napsterfreak15

I think these weren't said

windshield wipers(front and rear),
wiper motors,
wiper arms
front and rear windshield deicer canisters.
emitions
ac
logicon (heater/defrost works via toggle switch)

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

i had won dered about the square vs. round tubing in race cars. but just so you know, NHRA standards allows square tubing for roll cages if within spec. but yes, round is obviuosly a stronger shape. but the tubing in a dash isnt going to make much difference if any...

also, im in the process of doing a RHD swap. and after pulling the dash i notice its much much lighter and there is almost no tubing at all. the only metal in there is a very small O.D. thin walled tubing mainly used for things to mount on.

so the answer for shedding some good weight in USDM FC's is to junk that heavy *** metal in the dash...

also fuel cells with sending units and keeping it all manual interior. and the 86/87 rugs are lighter too.

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

stock dash is 36 pounds. with no cluster, cluster switch surround, or center console. I cut only one main bar out of the dash underneath of the glove box. If you hack all the metal bars out of the dash, it mounts to basically 4 plastic screws. (which I found one of mine was already cracked) So I decided to only pull one of the metal bars.

I'm at 2480 with a turbo engine, big turbo, stock working sunroof, full sound deadening goo (all of the carpet backing and the sound deadning mats pulled), and full interior.

Just pull all the motors and stock crap. Like the seatbelt motors if you have them antenna motor, weird air box thing in front of the front passenger tire.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

removing that **** from behind the dash is pretty stupid. if you didnt know it kinda keeps your car rfom being crushed together in the event of a t-bone. and same withtheose from bumper pieces. stick them back on. thats really stupid to take those off.

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

2480 with sunroof ?
u sure the scale is right ?
gut the damn sunroof thats like 50lbs everything !!!

dpf22

I currently meet all ssm requirements for interior with room to remove weight via the wiper motor on the rear hatch and putting aftermarket seats in. I still have the stock catback and y pipe and I tip the scca scales (corner weight scales) at 2650# My minimum weight for class is 2500. I do believe I can meet those.
As of right now, I have an aluminum n/a hood. No a/c, air pump, awr radiator (heavier), removed sun roof motor, smaller relocated battery. I still have a full working stereo and dash logicon with heat but no a/c. Haven't got around to removing the evaporator core. The car is a 1987 TII. Lots can be done without compromising the comfort, just have to take some time to think about it. The exhaust stock is really heavy, so a single exit would be much lighter. They used VERY thick steel when they manufactured those things and the mufflers weigh almost 25# a piece.

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

2480 with sunroof.

The scale was a trash dump scale. They have an incoming scale and one outcoming scale. I hit the one going into the dump and the one going out, just to at least see if they where correct with each other. They where matching. (we thought since you pay to get rid of trash they'd try and make you heavier on the first scale)

Also I just weighed a stock sunroof rack and motor assembly to see, and it's only 16 pounds without the sunroof panel itself in it.

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

Does it really? The FC dash only bolts in with 2 12's and 4 10's.. It doesn't go up against the sides of the car, and it's not even a straight bar all the way through the dash.. The center console area has nearly nothing (as far as metal) connecting it. I really couldn't imagine that dash helps integrity for ****. I figured it is just something else to get destroyed

One of the benefits, beside weight, I thought of for a custom dash would to be weld in a nice bar to stiffen things up.