Everything was fine until 248000 km...
10-11-11, 04:25 PM
#1
Rotary lover
Thread Starter
Everything was fine until 248000 km...
Had her since 2007. Driven about 30000 km my self, I donīt know how the previous owners did keep her, but I have tried to keep everything in mint condition.
Small mods, but majority is stock... NA engine. The car is 87.
Everything was working great until the end of this summer.
-Now the idle is pretty poor, idles around 600 and the idle is bouncy.
-When on engine brake, the engine revs donīt go down smoothly.
-When keeping the revs around 2000 there is small humping
-Now this new thing emerges, I can feel some hesitation when accelerating. The hesitation can be noticed on whole rew scale. Itīs kind like a little nod, a nod that happens once on a while...
I have been thinking that are these the final moments of my engine, and do I have to consider a total overhaul of my little 13B ?
Small mods, but majority is stock... NA engine. The car is 87.
Everything was working great until the end of this summer.
-Now the idle is pretty poor, idles around 600 and the idle is bouncy.
-When on engine brake, the engine revs donīt go down smoothly.
-When keeping the revs around 2000 there is small humping
-Now this new thing emerges, I can feel some hesitation when accelerating. The hesitation can be noticed on whole rew scale. Itīs kind like a little nod, a nod that happens once on a while...
I have been thinking that are these the final moments of my engine, and do I have to consider a total overhaul of my little 13B ?
10-12-11, 01:52 PM
#5
Rotary lover
Thread Starter
Ok, while we were adjusting the TPS we tried to adjust the idle...
One needs to put a jumper wire in a connector which has two heads/holes... That little green connector cannot be found on this Euro spec model...
The idle screw wont do a thing without the jumper wire ?
One needs to put a jumper wire in a connector which has two heads/holes... That little green connector cannot be found on this Euro spec model...
The idle screw wont do a thing without the jumper wire ?
10-12-11, 04:47 PM
#6
Are you referring to the screw on the BAC? I usually just unplug the BAC when I set it.
I recommend you verify your idle and thermowax settings on the TB itself though. A lot of times just fiddling with the BAC screw can make things worse, "band-aiding" the actual problem.
I recommend you verify your idle and thermowax settings on the TB itself though. A lot of times just fiddling with the BAC screw can make things worse, "band-aiding" the actual problem.
10-12-11, 06:02 PM
#7
talking head
those brit /euro ones are oddball, seems the ecu uses 12v senders ( and a dizzy ) and is more related to the 12at/ GSL-SE ecu
( i even wonder if the injectors batch fire )
try and find the pin at the ecu and ground it , and get revs below 1000
there was an example on aus rotor where we tried to sort this one out before
however i expect the hesitation issue is the same as everyone else
,, deteriation of the loom joints where the various sensor earths and shield earths tie together in the loom,, just out form the ecu
resolder those crimps and most people have it fixed
( i even wonder if the injectors batch fire )
try and find the pin at the ecu and ground it , and get revs below 1000
there was an example on aus rotor where we tried to sort this one out before
however i expect the hesitation issue is the same as everyone else
,, deteriation of the loom joints where the various sensor earths and shield earths tie together in the loom,, just out form the ecu
resolder those crimps and most people have it fixed
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