Im about to start my winter project. I have bought a new tranny and a good running T2 engine. I want to tear down the engine port and rebuild it. What other things should I be doing besides resealing everything? New rotor housings? 3mm apex seals? What else? I will be running a Haltech and a To4 turbo with 60-1 trim so it cant be weak. Any suggestions?

 

new Mazda rotor housings, apex seals, oil control rings, bearings, ect. if you got the money go with 3mm seals, oh yeah port it too

 

...You have to let us know what the goal of the car will be. Track, daily driven, both? HP goals? Your car is beautiful so I'd imagine you're lookin for functionality, speed, AND looks.

 

You need a 26B

 

Im looking for about 350-400 RWHP. I may be dreaming but thats what I would like to acheive. I want the car to be streetable but on the other hand I want to be able to go local drag strip and kick some ***. I was also thinking of hill climbing it next year. Basically I want everything

 

Bump

 

Bump, help please.

 

You want the car to rev quicker, so you get it into the power band quicker, right? So that means you want to reduce rotating mass.

How about a lightweight flywheel; you can either go with a medium weight steel, or really light with aluminum. There's been a lot of debate on the streetability of the aluminum; never having had one I can't say.

I've also heard that Racing Beat offers lightweight rotors. Apparently they take a stock rotor and cut off some excess material.

If you can afford the extra expense, try a set of 4.30 final gears, this will also help the car to accellerate quicker. Doesn't add hp, but lets you use the hp you have more efficiently.

 

Get new rotor housings. Lap your irons if you can reuse them, but for optimum performance, just get new ones if you got the coins for it. Heavy street port. 3rd gen corner seal springs. 2MM apex seals if fine (3rd gen drag racers use them under 25+psi of boost) all new internal seals should be replaced. I would do the oil pressure mod, and get ahold of 4 720CC injectors for your haltech.

Damn, that sounds exactly what I am going to do this winter...oh wait, it is what I am gonna do My motor will be for racing only though. If smog is an issue, then you may want to go smaller port size. The car will still pass emissions with a T04, haltech and a mild streetport if tuned correctly and with a cat installed. Feel free to email me with any specifics.

 

To comment on this: anyone who thinks a 9 lbs flywheel isn't streetable is a ******* moron, and has no clue how to drive. Maybe with a 6-puck race disk, but with any clutch that is "slippable" all it takes is about 15 minutes of practice to get used to. Also, don't get an aluminum flywheel! The flywheel will warp under the kind of torque you are looking at. If you want really light you'll have to cough up the money for a cromoly flywheel, but I'd suggest a 17 lb lightsteel. Your revs will drop alot between shifts with a 8 lb cromoly.

As for your hp goal... 400 whp on a ported, Haltech tuned, motor w/ a T04... no fuggin problem! It may take alot of time to tune it, unless you're having it professionally done. The Haltech installation is insane too =). But 400 hp on the motor you're talking about is easy... you should be able to get 450-500, with alot of tuning and a few more mods (a later model intake mani).

Just my.02

 

if ya gonna have a to4 u need good revability, therefore make sure u have nitrided stationary gears (grey in apperance). or u could fit sereis 6 (3rd gen) stationary gears which have better bearings (better oil flow) capable of 8000rpm+. u don't really need new housings if they arn't scorched or worn. some say if u go above 14/15psi u need to dowel your engine, i say pfft! if your running >25psi then yes. talk to different people and see what u rekon. u can clearence your rotors. 3mm seals are a good idea they cost the same, but u have to get the rotors machined (~$150). u can up the oil pressure as well. as someone said makesure your fuel system is upto spec. and replace all seals! turbo/extend port it!

 

just replace all the seals and springs with factory replacement ones
2mm seals are good for 1200 odd HP.
3mm seals are cheaper than 2mm seals, they also float at lower rpm and have increased wear.

If you want to do it properly then yes get new rotor housings.

You dont need extra dowels unless you are planning for 650rwhp or more, at around 700rwhp you get housing walk, none of the 'twisting' everyone tries to tell ya about.

Make sure you have enough fuel delivery, so spend $$ on bigger injectors, new regulator, very high flowing pump etc etc

350-400rwhp............................... EASY

 

So here is what I came up with:
-new rotor housings
-2mm apex seals(lately I hear alot of bad things about 3mm
-new stationary gears(possibly)
-all new seals
-heavy street port
-lapped end and middle housings

Anything else?

 

I just got done spending $1600 for new rotor housings and all the seals and springs to complete the engine, did I spend too much or is that about right?

 

I just got done spending $1600 for new rotor housings and all the seals and springs to complete the engine, did I spend too much or is that about right?

 

BUMP