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Engine Rebuild Questions

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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 01:55 PM
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Engine Rebuild Questions

Ok boys and girls. The 13B in my 89' GTU is now out, apart, and lookin purdy. Now, my problem is... Choosing a rebuild kit.

The engine failed because of 2 things. One of the inner oil seals' rubbers, broke in about 7 places. the other, is one of the corner seal plugs ( I'd assume that's what the black rubber'ish things in the corner seals are ) was missing. That could have been because I lost track of it when taking it apart, but reguardless.

The housings, and seals are in PRESTINE condition. I think my engine was recently rebuilt incorrectly, due to the cleanness of the parts, and the condition of the housings ( Only a small tarnish on the chromium.

The kit I am looking at now, is Atkin's Kit A, which includes the following...

Overhaul gasket set
Apex Seal Springs
Corner Seal Springs
Corner Seal Plugs
Side seal springs
Oil control Ring Rubbers
Front Main Seal
Rear Main seal
Pilot Bearing & Seal
Thermal Pellet Replacement
Hylomar sealant

The only thing I didn't notice, but probably not the only thing, is the "springs" or whatnot, in front and behind the oil rings. Is that included?

Also, lastly, a few more questions. While taking the engine apart, I ripped many old, worn hoses. I was thinking to replace them with silicone hose, is that a good idea? To replace all the small hoses with silicone ones? What about the nice little "Oil Spider"? What do you replace those hoses with. And the Atkins Thermal Pellet replacment.. does it act like the thermal pellet would, if the shimming procedure was used?

The engine is going out sometime this week to be streetported, so I have plunty of time to get everything together. Thanks a lot!
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 01:59 PM
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I hear you can only use silicone hose on vacuum hose area's so be carefull & aware of that if you go silicone. The "oil spider hoses are about $20 a pop from a few different locations. I am going through the exact process you are at the moment. However I went with the FULL rebuild kit, bearings and everything, justa cause I don't want to do this again anytime soon, and im paraniod about my baby
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 02:01 PM
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Originally posted by Rpeck
I hear you can only use silicone hose on vacuum hose area's so be carefull & aware of that if you go silicone. The "oil spider hoses are about $20 a pop from a few different locations. I am going through the exact process you are at the moment. However I went with the FULL rebuild kit, bearings and everything, justa cause I don't want to do this again anytime soon, and im paraniod about my baby
What sources did you come across? And did you mean they're $20 for the set? Or $20 per HOSE?
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 05:21 PM
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^bump C'mon guys, I need HELP!
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 05:23 PM
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Why did you pull it apart?
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 06:06 PM
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20$ per hose! yup they are damn expensive, plus I gota replace the spider parts also .. its way to brittle to put back on.
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 07:48 PM
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Re: Engine Rebuild Questions

Originally posted by Liquid Anarchy
The engine failed because of 2 things. One of the inner oil seals' rubbers, broke in about 7 places. the other, is one of the corner seal plugs ( I'd assume that's what the black rubber'ish things in the corner seals are ) was missing.
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 11:06 PM
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C'MON PEOPLE
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 12:14 AM
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damn your avatar is wicked..
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 12:19 AM
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Amazing what you can find on the net now-adays.

Don't let my Avatar make me seem unfriendly, I just have a wiccan girlfriend, and like the color black. Anyway, SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 12:39 AM
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Dude, relax.

Ive been getting my parts from revolution rotary. You can buy a single piece or the entire kit.

You can replace every single part in the engine, but I usually go with:

apex seals $250
gasket kit $150(NA)
thermo bypass pellet $15
oil o-rings(rubber rings only, reuse metal carriers) $100
corner seal plugs $20
front/rear main seals $15

Everything else is pretty much reuseable except in cases of extreme overheating or oil starvation.



As for the hoses, if youre careful you usually dont tear them up unless theyre destroyed anyway. I reuse many an old hose with good results, but I can also tell when one is about to go. The stock hoses are actually very good. Replace the vacuum hoses and youre generally good to go. As for the OMP lines(hard plastic clear/tan) if youre careful with them you wont have the problem, but otherwise they are $20 EACH, which is a good enough encouragement to me to be careful with them. I rarely break them.
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 12:45 AM
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Thanks man. Sounds like this kit is for me! THe apex's are in great shape. As I said, it's like it was rebuilt, just they forgot or mistreated some things. I wish I would have known about the $20 hoses tho. I thought you un-twisted the little plugs on the end.... didn't realize they're little circles...

I have a friend with a parts car, I'm sure he'll let it go for around $5 for the whole thing That's what good friends are for!
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 12:45 AM
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Those spider hoses are crap, going to put the silicone hoses on instead. I bought my rebuild kit from Atkins Rotary and they cut me a deal. Anywho, I'm in the same boat right now
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 01:06 AM
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Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate our help. One last thing. Does anyone know if the Atkins kit comes with the "spring" type things ( Wavy metal rings ) for the oil seals???
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 09:21 AM
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Unless a mod deletes this, it won't go away

Seriously guys. Poor student here, I can't afford to make many mistakes!
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 12:04 PM
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Originally posted by Liquid Anarchy
Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate our help. One last thing. Does anyone know if the Atkins kit comes with the "spring" type things ( Wavy metal rings ) for the oil seals???
Go to their web site www.AtkinsRotary.com , they should have a phone number on their site, if they do, call and ask for Kathy, if they don't let me know and I'll give you their phone number.
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