well my motor has always had a smoking problem. its a jspec s5 13bt and it has burned ungodly amounts of oil since i put it in. it used to burn about a quart every two days and leave ridiculous clouds whereever i drove. so for the past few months i have had another car for daily driving because i was afraid to get pulled over. i haven't driven it for months but i would start it and warm it up, it starts up very strong and pulls hard. a few weeks ago i decided to take it for a drive late at night and it didn't smoke one bit. the only thing i did differently was i topped off the oil with castrol 20w-50 high mileage, maybe a quart. does anyone have a clue as to why my motor has stopped burning oil? not that i'm complaining but now i feel as something's about to happen. my friend theorised that it was the cold weather, but once the engine warmed up the oil is flowing as usual right? i don't think it's the oil. so i have been driving it for the past few days and the only hint of burning oil is if it has sat for a few days and there's a small puff of blue smoke upon start up, then it's fine. has anyone experienced this?

 

its thicker oil + cold temps so its extra thick things dont just fix themsevles

 

i believe that "high milage" oil contains compounds intended to fill in minor scoring in cylinder jacket,thus restoring some compression in piston motors.Perhaps it had this effect on your rotor housings allowing oil control rings to work better

 

i was thinking maybe the seals or rings might have swelled. i don't think temperature has that much to do with it because i have driven for an hour straight so the engine has gotten plenty hot. even boosting hard.

 

well aparently the engine has "not" fixed itself, i installed my wideband today and went for a drive. i got on it pretty hard after it has been idling for 15 minutes and i smoked up the whole street. i guess i just wanted to believe that my engine was fine. oh well time for rebuild.

 

You should be carful with that high milage stuff. Addatives in the oils, and even some synthetics are really not good for this particular enigine. Seeing as how there is acctualy an oil injector that mixes a little bit of oil into the rotor (this car had niether pistons or rings that could swell...). The byproducts created by the combustion of the additives in high milage or some synthetic oils just clogs stuff up.

 

I'd say a lot of of people on this forum do use premix rather than the metering oil pump injection, although i don't know of his situation. I don't see why it would be a problem if he has blocked off his MOP and is running a form of premix. Although if he is running the MOP and no premix, i completely agree with your statement.

-Justin

 

try putting lucas oil stabalizer it really works!

 

DO NOT put Lucas Oil Stabilizer into the engine oil of a rotary. First off if the OMP is still funtional this stuff is not designed to burn and all the additives that are in it will FUBAR stuff. Secondly, this stuff is just a band-aid. Yeah, I will admit that it quiets noises like lifter knocks and swells oils seals for less oil consuption, but it doesn't fix anything. I ran Lucas in a Jeep motor for six months and it ruined almost every oil seal in the motor. Granted the seals weren't that great, but the swelling and increased oil pressure (substituting 1 quart oil for Lucas makes the mix real thick) blew out every seal.

If you have a problem fix it once and right.

 

My pops had a 74 rotary truck, about 1 year before it died completely, it was burning 1qt every 100 miles. He changed the oil and refilled the crankcase with dextron 3 trans fluid, and drove for about 20 miles, very easy miles. Changed the oil to the cheapest available light oil and used 5 minute flush. Changed the oil to castrol gtx 20-50 with a bottle of risolene ring seal. The oil consumption went to 1qt - 900-1000 which was good for those early engines. Also how do you know the engine is the problem, could be the hot side of the turbo, or even the cold side, but that should be easy to diagnose.