My S5 Turbo 2 core condition is as follows. If any one has any parts I'm missing which is crutial to a lasting build, please you input is welcome. I'm really trying to get a feel for what is involved. ps this is my first 13b rebuild so insight is always helpfull

garbage parts
-front housing has slight wear, no gouges no chips
-front rotor has no noticeable wear
-rear rotor has gashes on the face above the bathtub, garbage
-rear housing has gouges from apex seal coming off rotor, garbage
-front iron has a chip allowing coolant to get in, garbage
-center and rear iron has a few scrapes and small gouches, garbage

usable parts
-front rotor
-front housing
-e shaft
-front cover
-oil pan
-oil stuff under front cover
-bnr hybrid turbo
-rest of the accesories from below pic will be reused


my initial price calculation and sourcing of parts (mazdatrix)

-new motor mounts (motor = $47.99 X 2 from mazdatrix) ($105 banzai racing)
-transmission mount (find out which one chassis I need)
-fuel filter ($20.54)
-fuel injector cleaning (rc engineering $96.00 + shipping) (which hunter $80.00 local guy)
-water pump gasket (pump to front cover $4.87)
-water pump gasket (pump to pump $7.38)
-lower intake to engine gasket ($7.94)
-FD Upper intake to throttle body gasket (18.77)
-O ring throttle body to greddy elbow (20.72)
-exhaust manifold to engine gasket (87.53)
-exhaust manifold to turbo gasket (43.07)
-turbo to down pipe gasket (72.94)
-new irons ($300 local)

Parts I don't have a price or place picked out to buy from

-upper and lower intake gasket ( $? )
-new radiator hoses (top $ ? bottom $ ? )
-rear rotor and housing ( $? )
-rebuild kit ( $? )
-apex seal kit ( $? )


and cause this thread is boring a PIC! this is what it should look like put back togetehr

 

full gasket and seal set will cost another 1300. Includes all gasket and seals you need.
Apex seal mazda oem cost about 60-70 EACH. Forgot how much springs cost.
Front housing is about 650 each
new iron will cost more than 300 for sure.
A rotor is about 600 something
radiator hose u should be able to ge5 some at autozone or similar at low price.

 

I'm buying the irons this weekend for $300 from a local, recently lapped by mazdatrix and have not been installed
I'm sending photos of my housings to Goopy for potential refreshing ($200+shipping) depending on that I might not need a 'new' rear housing
http://goopyperformance.com/content/...g-refurbishing

as far as seals.... recommendations ?
planning on stock ports, bnr to4b-s turbo 13-15psi, 750cc/1000cc fuel.

Last time this set up made 305 reliable whp for 17k miles on a stock JDM motor which was daily driven

 

For that power level, you will not get too far with a "refurbished" housing and lapped iron.

lapped housing will not have the gas nitrite layer its going to wear fast(er)

refurbishing housing just removing imperfection so basically they are removing some material to make it "smooth" again. just like lapping.

if u ask me, I will tell ya go cheap and expect problems, or go all out and be happy for longer.

as for Apex, as long as the tuning is good and safe, Mazda seals will probably last the longest. but for not so safe/kind tuning then you have a few more choices. and I don't think you want to go Ceramics.

 

Judge ito just dissembled an engine that he had resurfaced housings by Goopy Performance 2-3 years ago and the housings and apex seals were in perfect shape.
It was driven hard and ran @ island dragway many times. Pushed 125PSi of compression and had 14lbs of vacuum @ 1k rpm still after years of resurfacing.
These guys build Rotary engines and BIG HP for a living and know very well what they are doing. So if you are not sure of something its best to say "not sure" and keep your trap shut!

Call advance rotary performance if you have any doubts!! 973-653-4084

 

Like I said, old rotor housing's chatter/bumpy surface will give you less than ideal compression, when you "smooth" it out and of course you will get better compression.

I'm not saying they don't work, but it will NEVER outlast a brand new housing. simple as that.

and I should correct something in my previous post, rotor housing's surface use hard chrome, side housing has nitrite

if you're on a budget and don't mind removing a bit of material, sure use it. I mean 200 bux a pair is a lot cheaper than brand new housing at 700 bux each. I won't use it because I already spent over 2.5K in seals and gaskets ALONE. might as well.

So yeah, they are REMOVING material. and again, yes you will get better compression numbers on a smooth surface.

You can hate me all you want, Its cool. At least Im sure they will not say their reconditioned housing would outlast a brand new housing.

 

good points, I flat out do not have the $ to buy new housings or spend $2,500 on seals like you, so i gotta work on a budget, a budget that I don't think is too unrealistic for my goals of reliable 305+hp.

not sure how you can say with new : intake gaskets, water seals, apex seals, lapped irons, and re surfaced housings and a re tune I couldn't make my power goals and make them reliably. My last tune in 2007 was pig rich (high 9's low 10's a:f) on a 1989 JDM T2 block which was about 20 years old and in suspect condition with who knows how many km's before I put 18k really tough miles on it.

enough with that

what I'm really wanting to know is if I'm missing any crucial parts when rebuilding a motor ? I think I'm pretty good but if anyone experienced is seeing something I'm leaving out I would love to hear.

 

from most locals I hear to use mazda's oem apex seals. I cannot afford ceramics, and I don't have a set up which I would 'need' ceramics, this is a street car running 13-15psi on a stock manifold and a hybrid s5 turbo. I'm not building anything too crazy seeing how I'm on stock ports, I have already broken drive train and misc other parts with the previous power levels (303whp @ 6,400 and 289lb @ 4,400)

 

you don't need all new gaskets, you can use gasket maker/sealant for some parts and its 10 times cheaper than everything new.

whoa that is pig rich, after rebuild you should get a tune. there is a reason why Mazda put spray gas nitrite since 1979 on the side and use chrome on the surface. again I mean it will work, but it will never last longer than new housings.

if you're on a budget i guess no choice.

 

thanks for the input Buddy, can you eloborate on these gaskets I don't need to purchase?
Last engine I used a black sealant from a tube (forgot the name) around the oil pan which worked wonderful, not a standard oil pan gasket. is there other places where this would work

 

Bro listen, I just came back from Goopy Performance in Stony Point NY. This guy has everything you will ever need. Don't listen to people who have opened an engine before. Take it from me, this guy is the real deal. Tell him I sent you. I bought my whole rebuild kit and got my housings done for under $1200. He just clearance my side seals and gave great advice on my build. For what you buy a rebuild kit anywhere else I got all of this done. Just search Goopy on youtube and see the caliber of cars they build.

 

Thanks, I will found out what hours goopy is open and call them.

 

im also looking at goopy when i get the funds
http://goopyperformance.com/

You can save some cash building the hybrid yourself , I spent $208 building up the stock unit and learned alot about them doing this.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/building-budget-hybrid-turbo-ebay-t04-parts-921510/

You will eventually have to step up to bigger injectors for that hybrid turbo, and then with that comes ecu fuel management. Maybe if you baby the car for a while should be ok, just don't open her up. Im also going to do medium streetport to mine.

 

Thanks Hyper, I already have the t04b- s trim turbo, as well as RCEngineering 750cc pri and 1000cc secondary, apex powerFC, walbro255, aeromotive FPR and the FD UIM.

Interesting enough, I think from this thread I found a seller of ported housings and matching rotors, only thing holding me up is the fact they are cosmo 13b-re internals.

Is it possible to run cosmo 13b-re housings, cosmo 13b-re rotors with s5 TII irons and s5 e-shaft ? I'm a little hesitant on everything fitting together, so if anyone has 1st hand input, please share!