Eccentric shaft bolt gone, what now?
#1
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Eccentric shaft bolt gone, what now?
Hello all and thanks in advance for any help.
Car is an 87 turbo ii with an s5 turbo, hks exhaust, greddy bov and full emissions delete. Engine and turbo were fully rebuilt less than 140 miles ago, I was driving around the block and heard a bang, saw a drop in oil pressure and shut the car off. I coasted into my driveway and now there is an oil slick the size of the car. Upon further inspection the bolt in the center of the crank pulley is completely gone, and all the oil seems to be pouring out of there.
If this is the issue how should I proceed? Is there potential damage to the internals? If not where might I look next? Appreciate any input.
Car is an 87 turbo ii with an s5 turbo, hks exhaust, greddy bov and full emissions delete. Engine and turbo were fully rebuilt less than 140 miles ago, I was driving around the block and heard a bang, saw a drop in oil pressure and shut the car off. I coasted into my driveway and now there is an oil slick the size of the car. Upon further inspection the bolt in the center of the crank pulley is completely gone, and all the oil seems to be pouring out of there.
If this is the issue how should I proceed? Is there potential damage to the internals? If not where might I look next? Appreciate any input.
#4
I wish I was driving!
Seeing as how you shut it down right away, its probably fine. The front cover will have to come off, and the front bearing assembly restacked.
Who built the engine?
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A guy out of Orlando, not 100% sure it was arranged through some racers I know from work. I'll probably take the front cover off and take care of it just to be able to leave it in the car. Do I need to order one of those oil bypass deals from atkins or racing beat or can I put a bolt in its place?
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86-11 Rx7 & Rx8 Atkins' Thermal Pellet (ARE50)
And then whatever holds it in. Is it a normal metric bolt?
#9
roTAR needz fundZ
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Most definitely. There doesn't seem to be anything in the hole now. I'm in south Florida and read it doesn't really hurt to bypass that in my climate. So it would appear I need this:
86-11 Rx7 & Rx8 Atkins' Thermal Pellet (ARE50)
And then whatever holds it in. Is it a normal metric bolt?
86-11 Rx7 & Rx8 Atkins' Thermal Pellet (ARE50)
And then whatever holds it in. Is it a normal metric bolt?
#10
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
It's a very specific bolt, with an o-ring, and also yeah, stacking it in the car is really damn hard. Pull it, check everything in the front stack and make sure you put all the parts back in there. Those torrington bearings are a bitch and can easily slip and bind up if it's done on its side like when in the car. Best is having the engine on its back. There's a spring in there with the thermal pellet so don't miss that step. Make sure to thread lock and properly torque.
Last edited by PinkRacer; 09-08-16 at 08:17 AM.
#11
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There's a lot of horror stories about people dropping the bearings for various reasons then torquing everything back down onto the shifted bearings and causing all sorts of havoc all throughout the block. The front cover really should come off to get to the front stack, and to get the front cover off, you'll need to get the oil pan off, and to get the oil pan off, you'll need to get the engine off its mounts.... Fun, right? But please do it for the sake of your engine. I'll throw you a carrot by giving you the bolt, crush washer, solid pellet, and spring for free if you pay for shipping. And the O-ring if I can find it and it's still in good condition. Just go dig out your threadlocker and torque wrench.
Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:
If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.
Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:
If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.
#12
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There's a lot of horror stories about people dropping the bearings for various reasons then torquing everything back down onto the shifted bearings and causing all sorts of havoc all throughout the block. The front cover really should come off to get to the front stack, and to get the front cover off, you'll need to get the oil pan off, and to get the oil pan off, you'll need to get the engine off its mounts.... Fun, right? But please do it for the sake of your engine. I'll throw you a carrot by giving you the bolt, crush washer, solid pellet, and spring for free if you pay for shipping. And the O-ring if I can find it and it's still in good condition. Just go dig out your threadlocker and torque wrench.
Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:
If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.
Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:
If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.
Thanks a ton for all the replies and thoughts! I appreciate it and my fc would never have even reached the point it is at without the club.
#13
I wish I was driving!
There's a lot of horror stories about people dropping the bearings for various reasons then torquing everything back down onto the shifted bearings and causing all sorts of havoc all throughout the block. The front cover really should come off to get to the front stack, and to get the front cover off, you'll need to get the oil pan off, and to get the oil pan off, you'll need to get the engine off its mounts.... Fun, right? But please do it for the sake of your engine. I'll throw you a carrot by giving you the bolt, crush washer, solid pellet, and spring for free if you pay for shipping. And the O-ring if I can find it and it's still in good condition. Just go dig out your threadlocker and torque wrench.
Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:
If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.
Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:
If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.
Reseal with RTV.
#14
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I truly appreciate the offer, and I understand what all is involved etc. I've been a long time forum lurker and just signed up a few months ago after I had my fc. for a few months. It's been quite the project so far but I expected as much when I purchased it. The nice thing is that I contacted the engine builder and he is going to come down to where I am at, tear it down for me and rectify the problem. He ordered all new parts from the mazda dealership and is just waiting on them to come in. I do expect to be back up and running by the end of next week.
Thanks a ton for all the replies and thoughts! I appreciate it and my fc would never have even reached the point it is at without the club.
Thanks a ton for all the replies and thoughts! I appreciate it and my fc would never have even reached the point it is at without the club.
#15
I wish I was driving!
You're sure? I know it's going to be impossible on my own car now that I've got the oil pan bolts replaced with studs, but the oil pan seals to the bottom of the front cover as well. I've never been able to gracefully separate the oil pan or front from the block without damaging either if it's sealed with RTV. Trying to remove the front cover while it's sealed to the oil pan and the front iron at the same time sounds like madness. Plus I was under the impression that 1. the front cover bolts are either 12 or 14mm bolts (I switched to SS allen heads, but I remember them being an 8mm thread) and 2. you had to remove the front oil pressure regulator to remove the front cover... I don't remember why.
Sweet, sounds good. Hope it goes well
Sweet, sounds good. Hope it goes well
It can be tough to separate an RTV bond, but it is definitely possible. A hacking knife and a small hammer usually separates the oil pan pretty easily, and a pry bar can separate the front cover from the iron.
The front oil pressure regulator does not need to be removed; once the front cover is moved ahead the 1/2" to clear it of the locating dowels, the cover can be pivotted forward and out from the front stack.
Its not a fun job. Pulling the rad would certainly make it easier.