Eccentric shaft bolt gone, what now?
 

Hello all and thanks in advance for any help.
Car is an 87 turbo ii with an s5 turbo, hks exhaust, greddy bov and full emissions delete. Engine and turbo were fully rebuilt less than 140 miles ago, I was driving around the block and heard a bang, saw a drop in oil pressure and shut the car off. I coasted into my driveway and now there is an oil slick the size of the car. Upon further inspection the bolt in the center of the crank pulley is completely gone, and all the oil seems to be pouring out of there.

If this is the issue how should I proceed? Is there potential damage to the internals? If not where might I look next? Appreciate any input.

sounds like it wasn't thread locked and torqued down properly. If you had a shop rebuild the engine and have a warranty, make a phone call

I'll make the phone call in the morning. How badly could this damage the motor?

The biggest risk with that is the total loss of oil pressure can cause the bearings to run dry and then gall on the eccentric shaft.
Seeing as how you shut it down right away, its probably fine. The front cover will have to come off, and the front bearing assembly restacked.
Who built the engine?

A guy out of Orlando, not 100% sure it was arranged through some racers I know from work. I'll probably take the front cover off and take care of it just to be able to leave it in the car. Do I need to order one of those oil bypass deals from atkins or racing beat or can I put a bolt in its place?

I'd assume the thermal pellet and spring shot out as well. Grab another set from Atkins to be on the safe side.

Lets be honest here I know you probably don't want to pull the engine out again. It will make pulling the front cover much easier. Plus less worry of torrington bearings falling.

Most definitely. There doesn't seem to be anything in the hole now. I'm in south Florida and read it doesn't really hurt to bypass that in my climate. So it would appear I need this:
86-11 Rx7 & Rx8 Atkins' Thermal Pellet (ARE50)
And then whatever holds it in. Is it a normal metric bolt?

theres a good chance the torrington bearings are already destroyed, hence why I agree with pulling the engine to KNOW for sure

NO, it is NOT a regular metric bolt, you will need to get one from a dealer (if its still available) atkins, mazdatrix, forum member etc.

It's a very specific bolt, with an o-ring, and also yeah, stacking it in the car is really damn hard. Pull it, check everything in the front stack and make sure you put all the parts back in there. Those torrington bearings are a bitch and can easily slip and bind up if it's done on its side like when in the car. Best is having the engine on its back. There's a spring in there with the thermal pellet so don't miss that step. Make sure to thread lock and properly torque.

There's a lot of horror stories about people dropping the bearings for various reasons then torquing everything back down onto the shifted bearings and causing all sorts of havoc all throughout the block. The front cover really should come off to get to the front stack, and to get the front cover off, you'll need to get the oil pan off, and to get the oil pan off, you'll need to get the engine off its mounts.... Fun, right? But please do it for the sake of your engine. I'll throw you a carrot by giving you the bolt, crush washer, solid pellet, and spring for free if you pay for shipping. And the O-ring if I can find it and it's still in good condition. Just go dig out your threadlocker and torque wrench.

Alternatively, you can buy it from Atkins Rotary. Yes, they still have everything in stock:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9be4f14bcd.png

If you find that all of this is going over your head, you should find someone trustworthy to do the work for you. I see you're a new RX7 forum member, and I don't want to spoil your first experience with an FC by turning it into a project car that is way more work than you asked for.

I truly appreciate the offer, and I understand what all is involved etc. I've been a long time forum lurker and just signed up a few months ago after I had my fc. for a few months. It's been quite the project so far but I expected as much when I purchased it. The nice thing is that I contacted the engine builder and he is going to come down to where I am at, tear it down for me and rectify the problem. He ordered all new parts from the mazda dealership and is just waiting on them to come in. I do expect to be back up and running by the end of next week.

Thanks a ton for all the replies and thoughts! I appreciate it and my fc would never have even reached the point it is at without the club.

Oil pan doesn't have to come off; just remove the 10mm bolts for the front cover.
Reseal with RTV.

You're sure? I know it's going to be impossible on my own car now that I've got the oil pan bolts replaced with studs, but the oil pan seals to the bottom of the front cover as well. I've never been able to gracefully separate the oil pan or front from the block without damaging either if it's sealed with RTV. Trying to remove the front cover while it's sealed to the oil pan and the front iron at the same time sounds like madness. Plus I was under the impression that 1. the front cover bolts are either 12 or 14mm bolts (I switched to SS allen heads, but I remember them being an 8mm thread) and 2. you had to remove the front oil pressure regulator to remove the front cover... I don't remember why.

Sweet, sounds good. Hope it goes well

Yeah, the bolts from the front cover to the iron are larger, I was referring to the oil pan bolts, which are 10mm head.
It can be tough to separate an RTV bond, but it is definitely possible. A hacking knife and a small hammer usually separates the oil pan pretty easily, and a pry bar can separate the front cover from the iron.
The front oil pressure regulator does not need to be removed; once the front cover is moved ahead the 1/2" to clear it of the locating dowels, the cover can be pivotted forward and out from the front stack.

Its not a fun job. Pulling the rad would certainly make it easier.