which do you think is best?

 

Keep the stock fan until the fan clutch wears out.

Then go with a thermostat controlled e-fan.

 

Keeping the stock fan is best.

After that, connect your e-fan to a proper thermostat, which is also enabled/disabled by the ignition switch.

 

I opted not to include the ignition switch feed here in Florida.
It helps prevent after shutdown heat soak, somewhat like a turbo timer.

 

i was looking at a e-fans, and their ratings are measured in CFM which i assumed is the mount of air sucked/blown.....was there a rating like this for the stock fan that could be compared to e-fans?

 

hey.

what temperature thermoswitch should the fan come on? Summit has an adjustable one and a 170F one.

 

yea, all of 'em i see have the adjustable thermostat switch - which is good........as for as wiring to the ignition (when the cars cut on, the fans on), my friend pointed out a good reason not to do this: say its winter time, and you want your heat on, its gonna a longer time for the heat to build up with the fan cooling at such low temps.

 

well, ideally, you would wire the fan to a fuse and a thermoswitch, wired into the ignition source. So, whenever the key is in the on position and the temperature is > X degrees, it would be on.

But I think most OEM setups are not ignition switched, they're just on a thermoswitch.

 

yea, but i had seen people on the forum just wiring them up, so when the car runs, so does the fan thinking its the best way to cool.....i guess its all priority depending on climate.

 

so why is the stock fan considered better??

 

Most are ignition switched.

Because as long as the thermoclutch is healthy, it works perfectly, and will not cause any of the cooling and charging problems often associated with electric fan installs.

 

stock fan is best. no E-fan will move more air.

hooking to the ign is stupid and defeats the purpuse of getting an e-fan. you are losing just as much power from the alt working extra then you save via the fan pulley. you only gain power when the e-fan is off. like when you are crusing on the highway and the engine is cool enough that it doesn't need to be on.

there is also no need to have the fan running until the engine warms up. it'll just take longer for it to warm up. and waste gas durring warm up by having the alt working harder.

 

you might have head aches from a e-fan

i have a fluidyne/perma cool/FD alt/and red top battery

that' is not enough for some damn reason. My system is good. New t-stat and prolly 10k on engine.

It's just too much of an electrial drain on the system. I went through one FD alt in about 3 mo.

Save the money until your 100 pecent sure. I have to go to the junk yard b/c i'm done putting up with this ****.

dont' get me wrong e-fans can work right but they don't always. When they dont' it could mean a seal. I had it go past safty zone more than once.

god i miss the stock clutch fan............... I live in fear

 

here we go again....

 

I just got an escort efan and was going to install it when doing the swap. I guess im going to hold that mod for a while now.

 

I have a cosmo 13b in my t2 and those lil turbos make alot more heat than the 13bt, with a new metal radiator the black magic 150 set to *** on at 175 the temp stay arounnd 180 around town , 195 boosting and around 207 at the autocross.good if u ask me

 

Exactly. And unless something new, amazing and interesting is posted, this thread is over. Millions of e-fan threads. We don't need another...

 

i wanna know what CFM rating the stock fan can do?

 

You ain't ever gonna know. Accurate fan testing isn't particularly easy, so I can't see anyone bothering to do it. And given how many different ways it can be done, I don't trust any of the flow rates quoted for aftermarket fans anyway.

 

Most of those rates are tested at an optimal voltage (14.7 VDC I believe). The FC charging system, after many years of use, is quite degraded, and probably wont provide this voltage. So in addition to a optimistic flow rate by the manufacturer, you have to deal with the reduced fan RPM for lower voltage/amperage.

 

what does a used fan with clutch usually sell for?

 

Yep, that's one unstated varible, but more important is the how the airflow was actually measured and how much resistance the fan was working against. It'll pull a helluva lot less air when bolted up to a radiator than it will hanging in mid-air...

 

I´m starting to get nervous! I´ve a double e-fan setup,
with Spal fans... each is (according to the manufacturer)pulling 2150 CFM. The radiator is custom made alu, 4" lower then the stock radiator, but it´s 2,5" thick and 2" widther than stock... What do you think? Will it be enough?