Dyno: Modded 10AE
Dyno: Modded 10AE
First off, mods are in the sig.


The A/Fs are looking really aggressive XD
Basically, there are two reasons why I think I could be getting more power:
First, my wastegate. With the way my engines ported, I'm pushing lots and lots of air. It outflows a ported S4 wastegate by far, so we took an exhaust valve head off a big Chevy engine and welded it on. Ported the hole to the max size of that flapper and it STILL crept at the top of third and 4th. So we settled on blocking off the left half of my exhaust at the y-pipe->muffler joint.
I peaked about 10psi on that run. My air intake temps were about 115f at the start and about 150f (per Haltech) at the end. When I get my Greddy FMIC(Still can't decide between v-spl and r-spl..), I should have much lower intake temps and I'll be able to run about 12psi.
What do you guys think?


The A/Fs are looking really aggressive XD
Basically, there are two reasons why I think I could be getting more power:
First, my wastegate. With the way my engines ported, I'm pushing lots and lots of air. It outflows a ported S4 wastegate by far, so we took an exhaust valve head off a big Chevy engine and welded it on. Ported the hole to the max size of that flapper and it STILL crept at the top of third and 4th. So we settled on blocking off the left half of my exhaust at the y-pipe->muffler joint.
I peaked about 10psi on that run. My air intake temps were about 115f at the start and about 150f (per Haltech) at the end. When I get my Greddy FMIC(Still can't decide between v-spl and r-spl..), I should have much lower intake temps and I'll be able to run about 12psi.
What do you guys think?
Originally posted by J-Rat
Dude, take that Redsuns sticker off your car...
Dude, take that Redsuns sticker off your car...
Wompa- Why do you have such big injectors?
Last edited by DEZERTE; May 25, 2004 at 08:41 PM.
Trending Topics
Originally posted by DEZERTE
The lower the number the richer the a/f mixture is? What do you want the #'s to be at theoritically for an T2.. and for an NA?
The lower the number the richer the a/f mixture is? What do you want the #'s to be at theoritically for an T2.. and for an NA?
TII i think from what I've heard 11's or 10's with higher boost is safest. For N/A, 13's, I've seen people go as lean as 13.5, so around there.
those aren't bad numbers.....I put down 295 at the wheels at 12psi on a mustang dyno, and you can also see my mods in my sig. But i had it dyno'd before my 3.125 in exhaust...i only had 2.5 in then.
You are much too rich in the mid rpm range, you can see the power/torque drops and spikes in correlation with the AFR graphs. You need to lean it out there...
..your peak numbers look good because you are getting leaner, mid 11's.
..your peak numbers look good because you are getting leaner, mid 11's.
Originally posted by DEZERTE
Lol I noticed that to.
Wompa- Why do you have such big injectors?
Lol I noticed that to.
Wompa- Why do you have such big injectors?
i was told that it is easier to tune down injectors is easier and better than to max out injectors.
Dude, you're in Dallas? I hope you're going to Rotary Performance for your tuning man...that looks kinda like Intercrew's bay - they don't know jack about rotaries!
I think I've seen ur car around too - nice car
David
I think I've seen ur car around too - nice car

David
Originally posted by PilotSi
Dude, you're in Dallas? I hope you're going to Rotary Performance for your tuning man...that looks kinda like Intercrew's bay - they don't know jack about rotaries!
I think I've seen ur car around too - nice car
David
Dude, you're in Dallas? I hope you're going to Rotary Performance for your tuning man...that looks kinda like Intercrew's bay - they don't know jack about rotaries!
I think I've seen ur car around too - nice car

David
That's not a tuning shop I dynoed in, it was Quik Kar in Richardson, they're running a special this week ($25/3 pulls with AF)
crap you should be WAY higher I think.
I put down 193.8 rwhp on a mustang dyno (equivalent of about 215 or so on a dynojet) on my S5 TurboII with stock motor, stock ECU, and only running 5.5 lbs boost.
I put down 193.8 rwhp on a mustang dyno (equivalent of about 215 or so on a dynojet) on my S5 TurboII with stock motor, stock ECU, and only running 5.5 lbs boost.
Originally posted by Barwick
crap you should be WAY higher I think.
I put down 193.8 rwhp on a mustang dyno (equivalent of about 215 or so on a dynojet) on my S5 TurboII with stock motor, stock ECU, and only running 5.5 lbs boost.
crap you should be WAY higher I think.
I put down 193.8 rwhp on a mustang dyno (equivalent of about 215 or so on a dynojet) on my S5 TurboII with stock motor, stock ECU, and only running 5.5 lbs boost.
-Joe
Originally posted by OverDriven
Why would one kind of dyno show lower numbers than another? HP is HP, right? Also, how were you running 5.5 psi on a stock motor unless the wastegate was ported? Stock on an S5 is 7.5 LBS. Not to mention a stock S5 puts down about 170 to the wheels at 7.5 lbs. I guess I'm just kinda confused about these numbers.
-Joe
Why would one kind of dyno show lower numbers than another? HP is HP, right? Also, how were you running 5.5 psi on a stock motor unless the wastegate was ported? Stock on an S5 is 7.5 LBS. Not to mention a stock S5 puts down about 170 to the wheels at 7.5 lbs. I guess I'm just kinda confused about these numbers.
-Joe
2) The DSV (stock electronic boost controller) wasn't working. The wastegate is srpung at 5.5 psi. Read 5.5 psi on the mechanical boost gauge too.
3) The car had a ghetto turbo-back exhaust, and a cone intake, they'd make some difference over stock.
Only reason I had it dynoed was because I was running 13.75 @ 104.8 mph in the 1/4 mile, and thought the engine might be ported or something strange was happening.
Originally posted by Barwick
1) All dynos read different, I don't understand it all, but Dynojets don't offer any resistance based on speed, while Mustang Dynos offer some sort of resistance... I'm not sure, but they're different. Ask a 50 year old Race Engineer.
2) The DSV (stock electronic boost controller) wasn't working. The wastegate is srpung at 5.5 psi. Read 5.5 psi on the mechanical boost gauge too.
3) The car had a ghetto turbo-back exhaust, and a cone intake, they'd make some difference over stock.
Only reason I had it dynoed was because I was running 13.75 @ 104.8 mph in the 1/4 mile, and thought the engine might be ported or something strange was happening.
1) All dynos read different, I don't understand it all, but Dynojets don't offer any resistance based on speed, while Mustang Dynos offer some sort of resistance... I'm not sure, but they're different. Ask a 50 year old Race Engineer.
2) The DSV (stock electronic boost controller) wasn't working. The wastegate is srpung at 5.5 psi. Read 5.5 psi on the mechanical boost gauge too.
3) The car had a ghetto turbo-back exhaust, and a cone intake, they'd make some difference over stock.
Only reason I had it dynoed was because I was running 13.75 @ 104.8 mph in the 1/4 mile, and thought the engine might be ported or something strange was happening.
-Joe
Mustang dynos show significanly lower numbers than dynojets, its usually around 15% lower. ALl dynos differe slightly also, its just the way they are calibrated. Thats why you always want to use the same dyno to compare , because even 2 dynojets can be off from each other.
That powerband must feel kind of surgy...the A/F's are constantly moving up and down. If I were you I'd richen the car up where they are peaking now and lean out where it's falling. You'll gain some nice mid-range pull and flatten out that A/F band. I would tune to about 10.8 or 11 max across the board. Remember how sensitive these motors are to detonation; one good ping on a hot day with an iffy tank of gas and it's toast. Leave room for a safety margin.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
demetlaw
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
Oct 2, 2015 06:22 PM






