virtego13

ok... this is the first winter i've had my car. I experienced my first flooding the first cold day we had. it was not fun. last weekend it flooded again, but was easier to get running that time. It flooded again tonight, and i wasnt able to get it running this time. my dad thinks my engine may be ready to go to the great 7 heaven. he says the seals may be getting progressively worse. my car always seemed to run fine while it is running. this is the first time i have ever had starting problems. i always make sure it is plenty warmed up and i let it idle a little while before shutting it off. i really don't know what to do. could it possibly be something wrong with the oil injection system? i can't afford a new engine right now...

please help!!!

hypntyz7

Well, go to autozone and get a compression tester. Anything under 100psi on either rotor means you have a year or less left on the engine.

That said, cold makes them flood worse. Put on a switch and maybe consider a new battery. IF you need directions on the switch, search under my username, or the last thread I posted directions in in tyhe 2nd gen forum was "wanted to vent" or something by champagne87.

Use the switch as I describe and you car will start on teh first try throughout the winter.

Green

anything under 100 psi ? are you sure on those numbers? He does have 88 lower compression Engine...

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

lol 100?? damn, im due i guess, my 86 engine went at 146k cuz of the stupid OMP rod, it came loose, last time i checked the engine i put in the car it had 65psi per side on front and rear rotors 170k miles right now, damn lol, time for some ATF

hypntyz7

Green...

YOu're thinking of the 88-86's having a lower *compression RATIO*. I was referring to his engine having lower overall compression numbers, due to wear and age. While I cannot really explain the difference, nor have I eaver heard a *clear* explanation, I can say it is like comparing apples to oranges.

The compression ratio determines to an extent the amount of power to be made, and ranges differently depending upon if you want to turbocharge the engine, supercharge, NOS, or go all motor. Some race piston motors raise compression *ratios* to 11:1 or 12:1, and some race turbo piston motors lower comprssion to 8:1 or even 7:1 to allow for higher boost. These ratios are set by the piston/rotor manufacturer by their shape on the face of compression/combustion. Big dimples mean lower ratios than small dimples/flat tops which are higher ratios.

THe compression numbers most people refer to are a measurement of the engine's ability to hold and compress air/fuel, a measurement of seal/ring wear within the engine. IF apex or side seals are worn, air slips past them and the engine doesnt compress as much air in a stroke, adn we all know that air+fuel=power.

I dont nkow of much of a better way to explain the difference than that, but someone may chime in with an NON-BS answer...

Agent D...

Im not saying I guarantee an engine with less than 100 will be dead soon, but Im saying Ive seen it MANY times. I once tested a car with 100/110 compression and the next week it died(87NA). My friend had an 87 NA that sputtered on startup, as if it ran on one rotor, and then finally a fe seconds later the 2nd one kicked in adn it ran pretty normally. I ran a compression test and got 100/105, and 3 months later his died.

In my experience, 90% of all 86-88 engines I test, that have not been rebuilt, have at least one rotor below 100psi, some right on the 90 limit. Uaually not too long after I either hear about them blowing up, or else I go back and offer the owner $200 for the whole car for parts when I see it sitting in his/her back yard.

virtego13

My dad's mailing list suggested that it could be possible that the injectors are clogged/dirty. it seems that if they were, they could leak gas after the engine has been shut off, resulting in a flooded engine. What do ya think?

quick 7

my 86 flooded like non-other, i used injector cleaner and that made a little difference, i have a fuel-pump cutoff switch under my dash so that makes the unflooding procedure alot easier. My engine started flooding two years ago and it is still running perfect now. so it may not mean a new engine, but check the compression and you will know for sure

Scott 89t2

the #'s you get will be different for different compression ratios, but not much. the N/A's should have higher readings then the turbo IIs

100 is pretty high for dead engine. around 80 is the limit for a bad engine. mine's around 95-100 and it's never flooded. a brand new engine is around 120-130.

yes the cause of flooding is the leaking injectors, but a engine with good compression will still start. so flooding is a cause of both leaking injectors and lower compression. gettign the injectors cleaned or replaced will most likey get rid of the flooding.

an engine wont "blow up" from low compression. if the engine blew with 90psi like you said then he broke an apex seal. not wore out the engine. an engine can run off really low compression like 60. it will just be really hard to start and have no power. same as you can drive a car with compression in only one rotor. it will just be really hard to start. and you have to keep your foot on the gas to stop it from stalling.

as an engine wears it will just get lower and lower to the point where it won't start or stay running. but it won't "blow".

Green

hmm I have about 90 in both rotors on rebuilt engine, but it's burning oil again, Screwed up O rings once more =( So with an 86, what should I be running (compression) ? 100+ in both ?

I just went to autozone and bought an engine compression guage for 25 bucks... Just screw it into sparkplug, had dad turn it over, and it got up to 90 on both.. 3 even bounces on both.. If 90 is low, WOOWEE cuz it feels faster than it ever has =) wonder how it feel with 130 psi like you guys say =)

No surprise to me though, I never know what I'm talking about muahahah!