Buggzy

OK I hate posts like this on my Honda forums but I need to know.

1. Is the FC a good car to drift with? (I'm learning)
2. What type(s) are there? Meaning turbo or non-tubo and the model code.
3. Things I should look for when shopping?
4. Common problems? (leaky seals, rust spots, mech/elec problems)
5. Equipment on the different models?

Thanks in advance for reading this, hopfully within a month or two I'll finally have my rex!

The plan was to pick one up for around 1000-1500 and drop in one of those motors from Petit Racing.... Figure if I can teach myself how to swap honda motors a rotary can't be that much harder, it will be fun learning in any event.

Dyre

Alot of people like the FC for drifting, and it seams to be a popular car in Japan. The car is very solid, and doesnt flex around turns or anything.

The Models can basically be broken down into Turbo and NA. The only turbos where the TurboII's from 87-91. The NA's have a wide variety of trims and suspensions, but all made the same amount of HP.

Buggzy

Which would be?

LOL... sorry if I sound like an *** but I really don't know a thing about rx-7's. I went from mustangs to hondas now hondas to rotarys.

Jerk_Racer

If you are just wanting to get started, look for a N/A model. Much cheaper to start with and easier to work on. Parts are easier to come by. If you are just learning, then chances are you don't want to spend too much on a car that you might crash. Be prepared to break stuff. This might be a 7 forum (so the following might **** some people off), but when you get more experienced getting sideways you should look into getting a 240SX (S13 chassis). Saying it is better for drifting is totally subjective, but look at the scene in Japan. Of what is readily available in the US compared to Japan, the S13 is the most popular. FC3S's seem to be losing popularity. It probably has something to do with being able to pick up older FD's for around $5k. The S13 has a huge aftermarket following over there compared to the FC. A few years ago this was not so, but it is now. Plus you can always swap the SR20DET into one. These engines will take a pounding night after night and not break a sweat. RX7's are not as forgiving by any means. If this sounds like I'm anti-rotary, I'm not. I love my '89 T2 and bought it for the main reason to drift it.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

Jerk_Racer

1992, 5-speed, 17inch wheels, muffler, full suspension, aftermarket rear spoiler, aftermarket tachometer, CD changer. All this for a mere 590,000yen. It might not be in the nicest shape, but it would probably go for $12k~$14k over here.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

Buggzy

ok... so what model codes should I be looking for??

GSL-SE?
GSL?
GXL?

CosmicButtHairs

Just go for a Turbo II.
They're highly modifiable and they come pretty fast stock.
But if money is really an issue, try to go for a GXL
I think GSL-SE and GSL are 1st gen trim models.

BhamBill

http://beyondtheredline.fd3s.net/secondgen.html Try that page. It'll tell you a lot about models.

Jerk_Racer

Go to Borders or B&N book stores and check out The Illustrated History of the RX7. It's a very good read. It will tell you all the trim levels and what not. The base model SE would be good car to look at. It can be had for $1k~$1.5k (that was your price range, right?). They can be stripped down to get a much better power to weight ratio. Drift cars are usually ratty *** cars for the most part, so don't feel bad about the interior being gone. The GTU model was more sport minded than the SE. The GXL was the loaded out luxury model. GSL and GSL-SE were 1st gen models. The turbo models do cost more. If you do get a N/A model and want to get a turbo later, just get a turbo now. This is cheaper than getting an N/A model and trying to convert it to turbo. When looking at a 7 to buy, spend the money to take it to a rotary specialist. They can tell you if it is worth it or not. Most 7's suffer from neglect. Many were rode hard and put away wet. Most non-enthusiasts that have owned them usually treated them like a GM and never replaced the oil every 2500 miles or less. When they finally did blow up from being treated wrong, people would say they a unreliable. As FC's are getting to be pretty old so many components on them are probably in need of replacement if the have not been yet. This covers bushings, weather stripping, hoses, and anything else rubber.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

Mykl

Alright, here's the detailed breakdown you've been asking for...

'86-'88, naturally aspirated
Engine code - 13B-DEI-II
1.3 liter, twin rotor, six ports
146 bhp @ 6500 RPM
138 lbft @ 3500 RPM
7000 RPM redline

Models
Base
Sport - Had a few aero pieces fitted, not sure if the changes went beyond that
GXL - The "plush" version, power windows, locks, sunroof, etc.
GTU - Replaced 'Sport' model in '88 (maybe '87, not sure)
Convertible ('88 only)

'89-'91, naturally aspirated
Engine code - 13B-DEI-II
1.3 liter, twin rotor, six ports
160 bhp @ 7000 RPM
140 lbft @ 4000 RPM
8000 RPM redline

Models
GTU - Took the place of the "Base" model ('89-'90)
GXL - Same as above ('89-'90)
GTUs - The fastest n/a RX-7 ever, it's a stripped down Turbo II with an n/a engine *rare* ('89, and a few carried over to '90)
Convertible
Coupe - Replaced GTU and GXL, I guess you just chose whatever options you wanted individually ('91)


All turbocharged models were called the Turbo II.

'87-'88, turbo
Engine code - 13B-T
1.3 liter, twin rotor, four ports, turbocharged
182 bhp @ 6500 RPM
183 ftlb @ 3500 RPM

'89-'91, turbo
Engine code - 13B-T
1.3 liter, twin rotor, four ports, turbocharged
200 bhp @ ???
??? ftlb @ ???

Buggzy

THANK YOU Mykl!!!!

That's exactly the info I was looking for!

Thanks to everyone else that posted, your opinions and insight is much appreciated.

Buggzy

Jackpot!

Thanks, now I'm going to be up all night comiting this to memory.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

You definitely want an RX w/ limited slip for drifting-so much more predictable. Turbos have it and some NAs, but can be swapped into any. You don't need power (Turbo in this case) to drift-just get harder, skinnier tires for nice low speed learning. Higher grip/speed and more power is for the experienced. Plus, when you wreck it you are out less money if you didn't buy the Turbo. :p

Mykl

My best advice for gather info on the RX-7 is by running searches on various internet search engines. There's a ton of info out there, and a lot to learn. I've been messing with FC's for two and a half years and I still have a lot to learn.

The FC is a great car, is now and always will be, and IMO looks worlds better than the S13. Although I really like and respect it, I just like FC's better.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

What kind of magical la la land are you living in? I would really like to know where I can pick up an FD for $5K. There is not a FD in texas that is sold for under $9K, unless it is completely totalled and the motor has already been pulled( I am DEAD serious about this) . Really which state can you pick up an FD for that cheap

Dyre

I never bothered learning the different trims, so i firgured i'd let the NA guy chime in with the different trim levels.

Which they did quiet well.

Mykl

Node

iTrader: (1)

lol

Jerk_Racer

BigWoogie: You are correct about the magical la la land part. It's Japan. I was speaking in reference to Japan. My next post directly after that included an ad from an Okinawan used car monthly. A decently built up FD for $5k is the reason why the older FC platform is not as popular as it used to be for drifting. I wish they could be so cheap over here. BTW, what's up with Texas having all those FD's. There don't seem to be too many around here in the Seattle area.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

soul assassin

ok well i am in japan and can honestly say i have never seen a decent FD for under or even near 5K a bone stock one with about 60- 80 k on the odometer will still got for about 8K and the tricked out ones usually start about 14k stil a tad bit cheaper but don't exagerate. i have heard of the occasional FD being sold for like 4 k but it is VERY i stress VERY hard to find deals like that.

the krza

2 words... hachi roku
i wouldnt drift with an FC only because of the weight. throwing 2800+lbs. into a corner would not turn out good if you are a beginner. im not king of the drift or anything, thats just my opinion.
...of course you would get a GT-S model w/ cusco LSD and coilovers.

Buggzy

LOL somebody's been watching Initial D!

Honestly I would like to get GT-S but you can't find them, besides the rx-7 could easily be turned into a drag car if I got tired of drifting.

Jerk_Racer

I never said they would be in good shape. They are available though. Most people that I knew that got cars for drifting didn't get them for their looks or condition. They got them because they were cheap. We are talking about drift cars, right? I'd rather be able to get a FD that runs (who knows for how long though) for $5k over there than one for $10k over here with a blown engine. I have three friend in Japan that bought FD's in the past year or so. When I was on vacation last month none of them were able to come out and play. They were all blown. These FD's were the inexpensive ones, not the nice ones. Even with the price of a rebuild (and then some) it still is a good deal compared to the States.
The AE86 isn't all that great for drifting. Short wheelbase=twitchy handling. Low power=needs more skill. Live axle=do I need to say? Why is it so popular? Because it is so cool. Great engine, easy to work on, nice and light weight RWD. Aside from So-Cal there aren't that many AE86's to be had. Most of them are scrap buy now. Coil over suspension seems cool, but it's really overkill. A shock/spring combo can give you the exact same results (except for the corner height adjustability) but is much cheaper.
There is no car that is best for drifting. Some are fundamently better than others (FWD v. RWD). It's all driver. I just suggest get something cheap and basic. Something that is easy to work on and has an abundant supply of parts in local junkyards. Work on your skills on and off the track. It's easy to spend the cash on parts to build up a car, but without practice it's a waste of time and money. Save that money up for when you crash. If you aren't breaking parts, you aren't trying hard enough.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Hmm, I think AE-86 is good for some of the reasons you listed as bad. Short(er than average) wheelbase may make it twitchy at very high speeds, but makes it easier to initiate drift at low/medium speeds. Live axle rear w/ four link is very predictable as you exceed its limits-tires remain perp. w/ road-no cambering like independent-no toe changes w/ suspension compression and no silly DTS or other built in safe guards designed to keep Joe Smoe from accidentally getting sideways. As for underpowered; well first its not terrible when you consider its weight, second you don't need gobs of power if you don't have alot of traction. I am not a drift expert and dont have an 86, but my first car was very similar-'80 200sx hatchback (Silvia) and since its handling limits weren't super high and I couldn't afford good tires I spent ALOT of time sideways...

Jerk_Racer

BLUE TII: The reasons that make this car bad are the reasons that make it great. ??? (No, I'm not a crackbaby) For a beginner, it might a bit hard to get nice drifts right off the bat. A more experienced driver will do just fine with it. Definitely more of a challenge than a higher powered, long wheelbase, modern suspension equipped car. Too bad they don't make 'em like they used to.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com