irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys,

Im needing to wire a cas from the ecu back but I dont have the entire shielded wiring so I was wondering if anyone knows how to make shielded wiring without having to purchase expensive hard to find pre made 4 wire shielded stuff???

Can I wrap it in something thats easy to find at a say a radio shack???

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

you could try the radioshack 2 conductor shielded wire.. $10/50ft just run two cables

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Ghetto way to do it: Take a coaxial cable (you know, TV cable) and cut a slit through the outer insulation layer all the way down the length you need. Strip the insulation all the way off. Take the 4 wires and run them in 2 pairs. Hook each pair to a drill, and tape the other end to a table. Run the drill until wires are neatly and uniformly twisted, repeat with second pair.Now, take the wires and tape one end to the inside of one end of the coax (the white insulation, leave the steel braid alone. Now all you need to do is slide the steel braid all the way down the length of the new wire. Wrap it in some friction tape, or convoluted tubing and you have a shielded double twisted pair wire.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

thanks 90gxl I went to radio shack and picked up that wire...only 8.99

arghx

iTrader: (3)

for your sake i really hope this is not a turbo car

scathcart

Twist each vr sensor pair of wires together the entire length. Putting the two ends into a drill and squeezing the trigger is an easy way to do this.
Then, slide over tinned copper shield. Make sure to crimp on a wire to the braid at the ECU end, and ground that wire. Make sure you ground one end only of the shield! Then, slide heat shrink over the entire length and go at it with a heat gun.

This is the sheild I use.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...hieldbraid.php

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm curious because I have a turbo vert, why are you concerned about DIY wiring a CAS for a turbo car?

HAILERS

Nice to know where we can buy shielded wire for our 02 sensors wiring. Thank you.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

whats wrong with the radioshack stuff?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Signal noise = Blown motor.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

there is an electronic store in San Rafael i ll see if i can get the name they sell 100% shielding thats what i used when i did mine ththe braiding that goes the wiring like stock but its 100%

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

heres the website http://www.electronicplus.com/ and heres the page for all the shielding http://www.electronicplus.com/conten...=wr&subcat=wcs
or you can go to the store heres the address

823 4th Street
San Rafael, CA 94901

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Is that sold by the foot or what units? Looks like some pretty nice stuff.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You can get away with almost anything on an n/a, but imitation CAS wiring is just asking for a blown motor on a turbo car. Sure there are sources of wires and there is advice from experienced people on this site. But what if you don't get it right the first time? Are you willing to risk a motor? It happens all the time with Haltechs. There is no substitute for the fitment and engineering of OEM wiring harnesses provided that they are not 100% completely cooked. Heck, even a mediocre condition harness is going to work out better as long the connectors still work, the grounds are clean, and no insulation on the wires has melted off.

Why is your factory harness hacked up anyway?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you can't find small quantities of shielded 2 pair from your local electronics store, try a music store. Double shielded 4 conductor microphone cable is a fairly standard item at most music stores and sold by the foot. It's rugged stuff as it is designed to be tossed around a stage. Just make sure to use some split-loom tubing and wrap it properly to keep engine bay nasties out of it.

scathcart

Yes, by the linear foot. I guess this would have been the better link.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...opperbraid.php

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

I ran my "ghetto" way on a megasquirt with no issues, and MS's are known to be very finicky with their CAS signal.

Sweet, I'll probably end up using that stuff next time.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I don't wanna hijack the thread, so I'll be starting my own thread after doing some research and work on the car. After I know better what's what with my car. I'm suspicious of my N/A harness. I've got a CEL for the CAS that I can't seem to figure out. IIRC there are two diff CEL for the CAS and the car has been sitting for 2 months now so I need to look at my notes to get right which CEL it is. My car is barely idling, horrible throttle response, horrible gas mileage, running rich at idle, etc.

I've tested resistance on my CAS numerous times and it's in spec. I swapped a known good CAS and the car ran wonderful for about a day...then went back to running just like the CAS I had removed. I've tested both CAS and they both test within FSM specs. Next step is reading up, testing the engine harness, reading threads like this on DIYing the CAS wiring.

I have numerous issues going on so I'm sure the CAS isn't the cause of all my problems...just one area to focus on. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread, hopefully it can point me in the right direction with my own issues.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

they have the perfect stuff for .55 per foot with 4 wires...I am going to buy some ASAP///

I just hopefully confirmed that you have to crimp a ground wire to the cas shielding...man I've asked this over and over...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the shield must be grounded at the ECU end only.