dmolchanoff

i was wondering if there is any difference between the tii LSD rear end and axles vs. the gxl LSD rear end and axles? looking for the stronger of the two and if i were to convert my gxl to the tii are the hubs the same or different?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

A GXL has the non turbo drivetrain and the TII has the turbo drivetrain. The TII diff and axles are stronger. The GXL is just the luxury version of the non turbo model. It has 5lug, 4pot brakes, power everything and a rear wiper.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

you will need a custom driveshaft, t2 rear and t2 half shafts if you want to mate them to your NA transmission

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Automatic drive shaft will work.

Yes, hubs are the same. I put in a s4 tii differential into my s5 gxl. Used the sub frame in my car.

N/a is a diff is 7 inches
Tii is 8 inches.

Evil Aviator

The TII halfshafts are 2mm thicker. They will not attach to an NA differential due to about 2mm offset difference in the mounting flange, but they will attach to the NA hubs just fine because the NA and TII splines are the same size.

I am not sure what your plans are for the car, but the NA transmission is more of a weakness than the NA differential. If you plan on making more than 200-230bhp, then it is probably a good idea to upgrade to the entire TII driveline. That would include a TII flywheel of the same engine series, clutch slave cylinder, transmission, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. Also, you should install new mounts when changing out the transmission and differential. Installing new bushings isn't such a bad idea, either, since since you will have all of the components out of the car anyway.

Evil Aviator

NOOOOO! It is too short and will not fully seat. Do NOT do this!

dmolchanoff

ok can i use the same differential casing and just swap out the diff itself or the whole thing casing and all?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Agreed. People really need to stop suggesting this. It's over 2 inches shorter end to end.

dmolchanoff

so im guessing you need to change out everything? what about the mounts are they the same mounts or should i use the TII....im going for about 350 hp dont ask me how cuz i really dont feel like telling cuz ill get bombed on

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Really? I had the assumption that the auto will work... Damn, sorry about the information of the drive shaft then.

Chris Boots

Glad to see somebody beat me to the punch on the auto shaft being to short. although you could find a good drive shaft shop and have them do some magic to make it longer...

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Auto shafts only work with a TII trans and NA rear, not a NA trans and TII rear.

Evil Aviator

There is a lot of misinformation on the internet, and I understand that it gets spread by well-meaning people. However, this particular issue can kill you, so I take it more seriously.

You must swap the whole thing because the internals are sized differently. Usually, your best bet is to find a TII at the junk yard, pull the entire drivetrain, and rebuild as necessary. You can replace the internals with an aftermarket unit (Cusco, KAAZ, etc.) for about $1,000 or so.

Also, keep in mind that the S4 is a clutch type LSD and the S5 is a viscous type. The clutch type is better for high performance, and you can change clutch packs from race to race if you are really serious about your racing. The viscous type is not liked quite as much by racers, it is not rebuildable, but it lasts a very long time and does not burn out expensive clutch components on a regular basis like the S4.

Yes, you should change out everything unless you are building a show car with a nice engine that will never be driven to its potential. Drag racing is especially hard on the drivetrain, but you could putt around town for years with an NA drivetrain and not hurt anything as long as you never launch the car hard.

If the mounts are original, they are over 20 years old and are well beyond toast. They are not going to be suitable for a stock 200bhp engine, let alone 350bhp. Most of the mounts are the same dimensions for TII and NA, but you can get them made of various materials. The common materials are as follows from softer to stiffer: Stock Rubber, 40% Stiffer Rubber, Urethane, Delrin (UHMW) or Metal.

Are you sure you are up to the cost and complexity of this project? If you want a TII it is cheaper and easier to just buy one. If you are planning on a V8 swap, you can buy a perfectly good used Camaro or Mustang for next to nothing. Heck, you can even finance one of those new cool-looking Camaros with 300bhp, 27mpg, and a 5-year/100K mile warranty for under $500/month.

dmolchanoff

still not answered?

Evil Aviator

The auto driveshaft only works properly with the auto transmission and an NA rear end. Any other combination could kill you.

My God, some of you guys are dense.

... which would give you a nasty old used driveshaft with a ghetto modification for about the same price as a brand new driveshaft. Heck, even the top-end Mazdatrix aluminum driveshaft is under $400. How freaking cheap are you guys anyway?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Rear end and halfshafts. Mounts will likely be included, but you should probably buy new ones anyway.

dmolchanoff

evil aviator some of us are broke and dont have the best jobs ever and have other bills to pay so some peoples builds take a while but thankyou for the information....

Napsterfreak15

I'm using a gxl diff and an auto drive shaft in my turbo trans. I had it extended at a local drive shaft company for 80$. Thats alot better then 400.

Evil Aviator

I know that. It just seems like sometimes people take shortcuts just to save a few dollars, yet it ends up costing them more money in the long run, or it unnecessarily limits the potential of the car. Also, if you don't have a good job or a lot of money, sometimes it isn't such a bright idea to spend a lot of unnecessary money on your car. I went through college with a stock SE with no mods other than a $38 K&N filter and $20 Fumoto oil drain valve, and it still got me to work and school just fine without any mad quick yo blowoff valves, fancy wheels, body moldings, etc.

As for wasting time and money on an RX-7, I think I am near the top of the list of the 2Gen owners on this website.

Well, at least you had it extended... and by a professional shop which hopefully balanced it.

No, it is not a lot better than the Mazdatrix aluminum driveshaft, but I do realize that not everybody wants or needs high-end items like that. New replacement driveshafts are about $250-300. The reason I recommend a new driveshaft is because you never know the mileage of a junkyard driveshaft, and you are taking a risk on how long it will last. Most of the junkyard driveshafts nowadays are pretty worn. Hopefully the U-joints will last a while, because when they bind up the vibrations can crack your interior plastic pieces which are very expensive to replace. What I am trying to tell you guys is that the driveshaft is a critical component, and it is a good idea to choose preventive maintenance over catastrophic failure. Other less-critical items like wheel bearings and halfshafts do not tend to destroy your car when they go bad.

dmolchanoff

yea i got something wrong with my gxl right now dont know if its the u joints are bad or if i need to get new control arm bushings but around 50-60 mph i got a wicked shake and then ill slow down and it will feel like the whole car jerks to the left and pops back to normal its totally fine until i hit about 50 idk i gotta get under it to really find out...anyone else ever have this problem? could it be the Dynamic Tracking Suspension System?

Napsterfreak15

Good info. Thanks.

By the looks of my drive shaft it is in great condition. It only has about 80,000 miles on it.

Napsterfreak15

sounds a bit more serious than worn DTSS bushing.

For starters I would put the car on jack stands and try shaking the whole tire to see if there is play in the bearings or bushings.

dmolchanoff

so possibly a full bushing overhaul from energy suspension?