archaphil

iTrader: (1)

The headlights did pop up when I initially looked at the car. I'm 98% sure they turned on as well. Buy back to work Damnit!

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Omg. I feel so stupid for over looking the biggest ground. Headlights turn on again, flip up, dash lights come on. Need to plug main relay back in, fem 02 and check diag port. I think we found it

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Got a new diagnostic port problem. all things in the car appear to have power again as they should however when the key is to on in the diagnostic LED is plugged in they turned on now which is new however they stay on. they do not shut off after a few seconds like the other car

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Round 4 of me being a Dumbass. Fem02 was unplugged. plugged it back in then the LED is lit up for 3 seconds and shut off as normal no codes present. start the car runs up to the 3000 cold start as normal still no idle. also still not displaying codes. since both main relay look like they got fried a little bit would I still have problems like I am from that?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The relay just passes voltage through it and nothing else, so if the car starts, then the relay should be doing its job. You could always bypass the relay wires as stated in a previous post. You want to make sure the alternator out terminal, which measures 14 volts when idling. And could you maybe describe what specific idle problems you have. Does it fluctuate, and if so, by what range. And have you checked the TPS to see if it was set properly to 1 volt on the G/R wire of the TPS w/key to on, and the engine as hot as it can be.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Idle issue at this point is anything below 2200ish rpm is stutter until it dies. Anything over 2200ish rpm and it seems happy.

Checking the TPS is on my list but its hard to get the engine full hot on jackstands in the garage holding 2200rpms without pissing off the neighbors.

Since I have no idea what the previous owner did to the engine when he pulled it I need to check timing as well. When the top spark plugs are removed, and egi comp fuse is pulled, it puffs 6 times. I still want to compression test it however.

Smells rich after I attempt to run it for a few minutes. But it gallops under 2200rpm. so yes fluctuates. If I do not keep my foot on the pedal it snuffs out.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Have the primary injectors been serviced/cleaned.

You can press downward on the rear throttle linkage to replicate a hot engine to help set the TPS.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

All 4 injectors were rebuilt/flow tested. Came back like new. I noticed that the cars cold air start up procedure runs the engine flawless. It's right after the 1500 drop that it startsoto cough. And even around 2200 it still sputters a little.

satch

iTrader: (1)

W/the engine running you want the alternator to output 14 volts. You ought to at some time check this to see if it could possibly contributing to a poor idling engine (but it really nees to achieve this output at lower rpms when just idling.

You can reset the CAS visually and not be forced to only be able to set it w/a timing gun.

And have you tried adjusted any idling screws?

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I gave up on it for the night. found my multimeter is not reading resistance properly so all my testing today is for nothing. I started going through the FSM for everything in the "poor idle" section when I realized the sensors on my other car that work, show same resistance or rather lack there of. stupid thing.

I will check that voltage at start up tomorrow. It runs great just long enough for me to due so. I am suspicious of the fuel pump. It is "silent". I can't hear it click on or anything. I am jaded however just coming from a walbro that wizzed like a siren. Maybe it is not producing proper fuel pressure.

When you say reset CAS Visually, you mean pull it out and re-stab it?

And I have not touched any idle screws. No idea if the PO did however. I am second owner of the magnificent piece of sex metal.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...psdt7sm7g4.jpg. there's a link to my cas position. From everything I've read at the first yellows mask on the pin at the housing, this appears normal yes?

Alternator was at 14v. I also took a moment to verify .5v at the boost sensor brown/white. As well as .5v off and on with key on at the leading coil g/y wire when spun by hand.

Ugh this car is spawn of Satan

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yellow mark on the pin is correct. You could have a vacuum leak if you have to fight the car to run. It could also be a faulty AFM. And then there's the compression test. And you could always try tuning the engine and checking the TPS.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I think compression is next. This last go round the idle was like it was running on 1 rotor. Very loppy. Vacuum wise I replaced anything that looked sketchy, but everything was for the most part intact for the mileage. I'll look into that afm and steal my other cars for science.

All this work restoring it.... somewhat humbling, but at the same time it's a project. Thanks for everythingo so far satch

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I noticed just now that I had left my leading coil unplugged from when I tested its plug voltage this last fire up. Plugged it back in, no change in how the car behaves. Lots of exhaust popping. Not loud pops, but like little thumps. Strange right?

No idea why that picture of the cas did not show right:

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Hooked my other known good leading coil up, no change.it runs the same. Ugh this is frustrating. It ran without the leading coil hooked up at all the same as it does with it plugged into a good one.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The engine is not geared to running just on the trailing coil and thus it should not be much of a surprise that it runs rough. If you tried running it on just the lead coil that would be different cause the engine can run sufficiently just via the lead coil.

The pic of the CAS seems to be a bit off but it could be due to the picture angle. There are different pulleys for these cars and you need to have the proper pulley per car model.

Again, you might have a vacuum leak. Just replacing some hoses is not enough as you need to check for vacuum leaks and they can be rather plentiful ranging from injector leaks to gasket leaks and so on.

Have you tried to tune the idle? This was mentioned earlier. You have the Variable Resistor, TPS, Idle adjust screw, and throttle stop screw. All of these are mentioned in many, many other threads through the years which are archived on this site. If you haven't learned how to use the advanced search feature then this would be a good time to start.

Have you tested the relevant ECU pins according to spec as specified in the FSM?

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Vacuum is certainly an issue as this was torn down to bare keg. But I scrapped everything fresh, and replaced all gaskets with new and torqued via fsm. It's funny you mention the CAS. Everything should be original pulley wise. But I was running it with a friend tonight to check some things that I can't by myself presently, and my headers an d cat were glowing red after this last go. Even ran it 3/4 to redline and everything seems fine. Seemed like it almost washed to idle until we noticed the headers/cat glowing red.

I'll start searching and stop wasting everyone's time.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The glowing header/exhaust can be a sign of improper timing so you might want to adjust the CAS by a tooth.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Just checked the cas, it's dead nuts on. Tried my known good ecu for giggles as well, no change. Tps out vacuum leak at this point, and I need a hand for both.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Got it satch. Was a vacuum leak. Thank you SOO much man. PM me, I would feel guilty not tipping you for this help.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Instead of compensation why don't you just share w/us where the vacuum leak was?

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I still feel guilty man. It was the one thing I did not take apart. It can be seen in video on my build thread. But, it was the secondary air pump sending unit housing.

The gasket was gouged, and cracked. I rtv'd the gasket.

My video shows my makeshift smoke machine that I used to find the leak. i

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That was a particularly classy response...kudos.

I of course, would have gone for the cash.