2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

89 T2 Bake Diy?

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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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89 T2 Bake Diy?

Anyone have a link on Pad replacement? Searched Google got a all FD stuff.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 03:12 PM
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as in replacing them, or getting replacements? either way... not hard
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...urgent-955273/
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the link. Hopefully my caliper pins arent fubared.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by re-rx7
Thanks for the link. Hopefully my caliper pins arent fubared.
id just pick all the hardware up. better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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Have to order it through mazdatrix.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 06:57 PM
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Rockauto.com lots of parts on clearance.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pfsantos
Rockauto.com lots of parts on clearance.
Thank you.
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:31 AM
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You're welcome.

BTW, to all, now's the time to pick up calipers if budget allows and your time is limited. Esp. the rear ones. They're a bit of trouble to rebuild, especially if not an experienced DIY'er. And like the other poster said, pins/sliders, hardware and such is good to have and stock up on.
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:45 AM
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I was on rockauto this morning ang they have tons of clearance stuff. ****, you can get a clutch slave cylinder for like $4
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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my only 2 fc's were missing at least some of the hardware. i'm sure it's common that people lose/forget/don't care to reinstall the return springs or shims, WHY after doing a brake job. it's worth the extra 15$ or so to have everything as it was from the factory.
and if within the service limits, have the rotors turned as upposed to replacing with cheap units. i know it costs about the same, but at least this way you have a guaranteed true surface
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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Well I got mine out. One of the pistons was tough to get back in but it did go. Very little if any material left. One pad was wearing uneven from the back of the pad to the front. I attribute that to the pic below. Almost makes me wonder if these were original pads lol. Car didnt exhibit any shaking or pulsing under braking. Prolly scotch brite the rotor and slap on the new pads.

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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 02:14 PM
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the uneven wear is attributed to the piston that was/is sticky.

you should really consider having the rotors machined. scotch briting will do nothing
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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Rotors arent warped. No need for turning the rotors. they arent warped or shaky. Scotchbrite is to remove the old material from the surface. The pad wear from what I have read is from the the pads not being able to move inside of the caliper. This is due to the rust and no lubrication. Thats why you add brake grease to the back of the bad/shim.
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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the lube at the back of the shim is to reduce noise. technically, when a pad has a shim, you don't even need the lube, as the shim is what reduces noise already. some people use it anyways as an extra precaution. do as you like. just offering my advice. take care
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Read for pads and USPS loses my package from MAzdatrix! Im beyond pissed.
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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It happens.

I had work Meister's lost in the mail before.

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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jager
It happens.

I had work Meister's lost in the mail before.

Turns out they put my package in the wrong box. So my brakes are on and running great. Feels so much better!
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