Diagnostic port Troubles
06-18-14, 07:57 PM
#26
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I should have read this first.I just took the main relay from my other FC, plugged it in then I put the diagnostic clip in, and turn the key to on. this then lit up the diagnostic LED's however when I went to run the car I heard a loud click and I'm pretty sure I just blew that relay. I did clean that ground clip on the drivers side strut tower with the 5 wires going into it.
06-18-14, 08:08 PM
#27
The relay should be protected by a fuse. Either the 15 amp engine fuse, Comp fuse or EGI fuse. Engine fuse powers the B/W wire in the 2 wire relay plug. Comp fuse powers the W/L wire in the 4 wire relay plug. EGI fuse powers the B/G wire in the same plug. If your having issues w/the relay you could always unplug the 4 wire plug and w/key to on to see if things are okay. If so, then the problem would likely be coming from the 4 wire plug.
06-18-14, 08:09 PM
#28
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Also now I get no dash lights at all. Everything seems dead. Work noting the white blue wire and a black white wire look like they may have gotten really hot like brownish. right at the connector plug for the main relay
06-18-14, 08:21 PM
#29
Dash lights are powered by the 15 amp illumination fuse (interior fuse box).
You need to check out both of the wires which look browned. W/L comes from the Comp fuse so that should be rather easy to check. The B/W wire powered by the W/L wire runs to all the emission solenoids on the driver's side of the engine, BAC, relief and split air solenoids, the ECU, and the air bypass relay and solenoid. All of these are located on the emission side of FEM-02 located near and above the passenger kick panel. FEM-01 is side by side w/FEM-02. FEM-02 is a bit smaller. Unplug this connector and you can isolate the problem to either before FEM-02 or after it.
You need to check out both of the wires which look browned. W/L comes from the Comp fuse so that should be rather easy to check. The B/W wire powered by the W/L wire runs to all the emission solenoids on the driver's side of the engine, BAC, relief and split air solenoids, the ECU, and the air bypass relay and solenoid. All of these are located on the emission side of FEM-02 located near and above the passenger kick panel. FEM-01 is side by side w/FEM-02. FEM-02 is a bit smaller. Unplug this connector and you can isolate the problem to either before FEM-02 or after it.
06-19-14, 12:23 PM
#33
You could have a switch issue or something is going on at the engine bay fuse box. Both the retractor fuse (White/Green wire) and head fuse (Red wire and used by the headlight switch) are located in this fuse box. Check to see if they are blown. If they are good then look at the wires as they drop from their respective fuses in this fuse box to see if they were damaged by the W/L wire coming from the Comp fuse.
06-19-14, 05:29 PM
#34
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http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...pslk6nop5r.jpg
Retactor and head both are intact and wires look normal. Starting to go after that fem02 and this wirer came out of its connector
Retactor and head both are intact and wires look normal. Starting to go after that fem02 and this wirer came out of its connector
06-19-14, 05:33 PM
#35
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http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...psdt7sm7g4.jpg
Found this on what I believe is that connector you wanted me to pull.
I want to add as I have been working with the doors open. The door card lights are diml, but overnight they got bright again... seems like serious grounding issues
Found this on what I believe is that connector you wanted me to pull.
I want to add as I have been working with the doors open. The door card lights are diml, but overnight they got bright again... seems like serious grounding issues
06-19-14, 06:02 PM
#37
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Unplugged fem02. No Change presently. Door card lights come on. Then I try to turn key. Hear a click, then lights turn off. Turn key off. Lights come back on. I know my head light switch is good, well was until last night when the loud click happened.but the same symptoms described above happens whether I turn the key or turn the headlight switch.it seems anytime I try to use anything in the car that requires electricity it kills the power, well what little it's giving me to you use at the moment anyways
06-19-14, 06:23 PM
#38
Jumper the White/Blue wire at the headlight relay in front of the radiator (next to the dimmer relay) to ground. If the headlight switch is receiving power then the lights should turn on (not pop up but just turn on). If they don't then your switch and or harness is likely damaged.
FEM-02 was mentioned in case the problem w/the B/W wire coming from the 4 wire relay plug was problematic. If this plug is unplugged you cannot start the car and so on.
FEM-02 was mentioned in case the problem w/the B/W wire coming from the 4 wire relay plug was problematic. If this plug is unplugged you cannot start the car and so on.
Last edited by satch; 06-19-14 at 06:27 PM.
06-20-14, 05:41 PM
#45
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just checked it I got nothin on both wires. I also checked my reactor relay for voltage with key on and it was displaying a voltage of around 11.5.
06-20-14, 05:52 PM
#47
The only cause for there to be no voltage on the Red wires are either a blown fuse or damaged wiring or a loose wire from the fuse. The Red wire feeds both the relay and headlight switch. Where they mate I do not know, but you'll have to check this wire to get to the origin of the problem. Check for constant voltage right as the wire comes off the head fuse.
06-20-14, 06:08 PM
#48
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I receive voltage right at the head fuse. To recap. started with a diagnostic plug then we track down the main relay, hi then took the known good main relay from the other car plugged it in, Key on loud click now everything dead
06-20-14, 06:20 PM
#49
If you have voltage at the fuse but not at the relay then you need to find where the Red wire splits. If you check the Red wire at the headlight switch (not relay but switch) it should also have constant voltage. Chances are there is a fracture of the spot where the Red wire splits off of the wire as it comes from the head fuse.
And I am fully aware of how this unraveled but if it were only that simple. I mean your headlight problem should not have a damn thing to do w/the main relay but obviously this car's wiring is a product from hell.
And I am fully aware of how this unraveled but if it were only that simple. I mean your headlight problem should not have a damn thing to do w/the main relay but obviously this car's wiring is a product from hell.
06-20-14, 06:57 PM
#50
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Haha. No I agree. I found the main battery ground is a part of the mix. Had s friend hold my volt metre from positive terminal on battery to ground to engine... then alternator... wasn't good. Went under car and stayed moving it and suddenly had proper voltage. Cleaning it now will report back and start hacking open that wire loom for the headlight harness tracing the red wire