i run amsoil synthetic through my car just yesterday the oil was at a good shade but now this morning its dark i no that when u got black oil it means u need an oil change but its only been 1000 miles and synthetic is supposed to last for like 5 to 7000 miles the bottle says 25000 but i figured i would do a change every 5 to 7000

 

Search.

No need to run synthetic in a rotary. Some of it gets burned off anyway. The dark color and gassy smell is normal.

You are wasting your money.

James

 

isn't it supposed to last longer tho before u need an oil change and be easier on your engine

 

I dunno where the myth about clean oil staying it's original color if it's doing it's job, but...
IT'S WRONG.

If the oil gets darker, IT'S DOING IT'S JOB.

THINK ABOUT IT.

Darker oil means it's cleaning the insides of your engine.
You want all the crap to get trapped inside the oil, rather than stuck on the insides of your engine.
It sounds like your engine is in pretty nasty shape.


-Ted

 

I've allways ran synthetic in my 7's, so does Mazdatrix, and RacingBeat, and Mazda ran Idamitsu in the 787B Lamans winner. I'd like to say it's okay.

Quote from Icemark:
It is a myth that good quality sythetics don't burn well or leave residue.

The 20W50 Amsoil has a flash point of 482F, and less ash (what is left after the oil is burned) than the famed Castrol GTX oils as well as any other 20W50 other than Redline. As a quick comparison, the ash left from Valvoline Turbo (conventional oil) is .99, while the ash left from Redline and Amsoil, both are less than .5 (with actually Redline showing less than .01 in many cases).

There are less additives and junk in the oil in most good quality synthetics than any conventional oil... which means fewer deposits.

That is why I recommend their use to people that have the extra money. Hands down, without any doubts, and proven over and over and over again, good quality synthetics burn cleaner, with less residue, and increased horsepower. The only thing that does not make them attractive is the cost.

I will say this again, for the people unable to search on this subject or too dumb to read the data sheets:

A good quality synthetic (like Amsoil, Redline, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1) is perfectly fine to use in a rotary. It is the poor quality ones (like Valvoine, Castrol Syntec, Havoilne, etc) should be avoided like the plauge as they do have the increased additives and left over ash that makes there use unsuited for a rotary or any high reving engines operation. Valvoline Synthetics and Castrol Syntec oils typically have a ash of 1.5...:o

And that hench is the problem... Mazda could not say, its okay to use Redline synthetic, but not Castrol syntec. Of course, Castrol GTX oils are probably the best conventional oils made, but Mazda couldn't say use one, but not the other... so they said don't use any.

And just for referance, This has been proven in rotary engine operation since the mid 80's. I have old RX-7 Club of America newsletters that say the same thing... so it is not some new testing that has proven this... Its the same thing over and over again.

 

I ran synth on my high-mileage engine and I checked it a week later and it was super dark as well. My theory is that it dissolves carbon better than dino oil.. but I base that on absolutely nothing.

So I changed it early and the subsequent changes were lighter and lighter... but still came out pretty dark. Better in my oil than in my engine.

 

All oil will become dark as it is circulated around the engine. It picks up contaminates in the form of acids, carbon, little metal shavings, combustion gasses, gasket pieces, etc. This means that it's doing it's job. With the amount of worn out high-mileage engines in 2nd gens (remember that the newest 2nd gen is still 15 years old), it's no wonder that he oil blackens in a few hundred miles. Hell, even my Honda Insight will turn gold oil black between changes...

 

and don't neglect the oil cooler, that thing is a beast when it comes to engine oil.
despite of that, one still have to change oil regularly to keep a healthy engine from breakdown.

 

Some synthetics might be alright...especially in race cars where thermal breakdown might be a problem. However, most stereotypes have at least some truth to them. I think it's pretty safe to say that some synthetics may be safe, but some of them will definitely not burn as clean.

I'm just going to stick with what works.

Although buying Autozone brand oil may have been a mistake...that **** was damn near clear when I put it in....

 

like i said i run a true synthetic .. amsoil .. but atleast its cleaning the stuff out right ... but yea i drive my car haard , though not stupid i just figured i should use a stronger oil if i'm going to expect my car to handle it but if my oil changed dark it means its working pretty good but does this mean i need to do a change sooner then expected i've been running the switch from pennzoil to amsoil full synthetic for about 1110 miles so far .. so ,should i change it sooner then?

 

I've seen a 13BT engine run an Amsoil 20W50, and it was starting to crud the rotor housing surfaces.
I would never recommend to run that particular oil in any 13B through my experiences.

How much miles does your engine have?
If it's not a recent rebuild, high mileage engine will have significant blow-by.
This will contaminate the oil quick, as Aaron Cake has already mentioned.


-Ted

 

If you have the stock OMP working you should deffinatly worry abotu which oil u want to use if running Synthetic. Mazda has givin ELF a written sign of aggrement that it is and should be used in the RX8 (which will then call for rx7 use as well) However the recomended ELF oil that should be used in the rotary is the Evolution SXR 5w30.. I use the 10W50 HOWEVER ELF does not recomend use of it because it will not burn (when using the omp).. Now I pre-mix and dont run the OMP so I use the 10w50 and I love it it works great and it WAY CHEAPER then mobil 1, castrol or AMSOIL synthetic...

I would recomend contacting the manufacture and make sure that there oil WILL burn when used with a car who is using the omp because if it will not burn it will cause more harm then good..

I sell the ELF 5w30 SXR for 5.50 a litre (1.06qts) and the Excellium 10w50 at 5.50 a litre (1.06 qts)

Lets also not forget that US spec synthetic oil is not 100% pure synthtic oil... you are paing the prmium price for a non premium oil...

in the USA synthetic oil has to contain ONLY 5-8% base stock 3 oil (base stock 3 being synthetic).. In Europe (where ELF is engenereed and bottled) Elf oil is a base stock 3/4 which is the only REAL synthetic oil