Damn Charging System! What is wrong with it!
#1
Damn Charging System! What is wrong with it!
Now I've searched about this a few times, and every time I try something that is suggested, I have no luck!
I have an 86 GXL, and last year I noticed that the car was running at 12.5 volts on the stock gauge. I thought that the guage was bad as I hadn't noticed any problems starting the car. Near the end of the summer, the car WAS having problems starting, so I figured the alternator was going, as the battery was bought at the beginning of the summer. I stored the car, and with the bad alternator, and decided to change it in the spring.
Now, 3 weeks ago I pulled the alternator of the car and took it to a shop. They tested it and told me it was toast (no surprise here). I then went and got an alternator from an 87 TII parts car, and had it tested at the same place. The guy told me that one was good. So, I put a dual pulley on it (NOT underdrive), and bolted it up. I put a new fresh ground on the adjustment arm, and made sure the belts were tensioned properly.
Well, there's no change AT ALL! The car still only reads 12.5 volts, and if I leave the door open for 10 minutes, it wont start!
The battery is 1.5 years old.
The alternator was tested and passed.
The grounds are new.
The belts are tensioned properly.
What is the problem??????
Is the alternator from a TII different thatn the one off an NA? (There is an extra single spade connection, but I don't know what would plug into it). This is staring to drive me nuts!
Any thoughts............................
I have an 86 GXL, and last year I noticed that the car was running at 12.5 volts on the stock gauge. I thought that the guage was bad as I hadn't noticed any problems starting the car. Near the end of the summer, the car WAS having problems starting, so I figured the alternator was going, as the battery was bought at the beginning of the summer. I stored the car, and with the bad alternator, and decided to change it in the spring.
Now, 3 weeks ago I pulled the alternator of the car and took it to a shop. They tested it and told me it was toast (no surprise here). I then went and got an alternator from an 87 TII parts car, and had it tested at the same place. The guy told me that one was good. So, I put a dual pulley on it (NOT underdrive), and bolted it up. I put a new fresh ground on the adjustment arm, and made sure the belts were tensioned properly.
Well, there's no change AT ALL! The car still only reads 12.5 volts, and if I leave the door open for 10 minutes, it wont start!
The battery is 1.5 years old.
The alternator was tested and passed.
The grounds are new.
The belts are tensioned properly.
What is the problem??????
Is the alternator from a TII different thatn the one off an NA? (There is an extra single spade connection, but I don't know what would plug into it). This is staring to drive me nuts!
Any thoughts............................
#2
Rotor Head
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whoa, thats fucked up. Do you only have 1 ground? how big is the wire? I have 3 grounds 8 gauge wire (fairly good) if you only have 1 and its shitty wire that might be your problem.
#3
REINCARNATED
iTrader: (4)
i would like to say that i am ALSO haveing charging problems.
I have had the altenator off the car and tested, passed with flying colors. Brand new Optima Red top battery.. (2 weeks old) New grouding wires, new starter wires, everything i could replace has been replaced. belts, tension. everything.... The battery is starting to show signs of low voltage... in the morning when i start it, it's slow.. I am SURE i turn everything off... the only thing that is staying on is my E-fan... but that's only for like 10 sec after i shut engine off... my mechanic said something is drawing current when car is off. but what could it be? i would like some help along with nick 86
thanks for the help...
-Markus
I have had the altenator off the car and tested, passed with flying colors. Brand new Optima Red top battery.. (2 weeks old) New grouding wires, new starter wires, everything i could replace has been replaced. belts, tension. everything.... The battery is starting to show signs of low voltage... in the morning when i start it, it's slow.. I am SURE i turn everything off... the only thing that is staying on is my E-fan... but that's only for like 10 sec after i shut engine off... my mechanic said something is drawing current when car is off. but what could it be? i would like some help along with nick 86
thanks for the help...
-Markus
#4
In Full Autist Cosplay
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i would be SURE the alternator is putting out a charge
sounds to me like the new alt is toast.. are you sure the "new" alternator has all the terminals connected?
get your "toasted" alt rebuilt - usually isnt expensive.. then toss in the new alt and try another battery..
my car runs alot better, i had my alt gutted and rebuilt, with the amperage bumped up to 115 amps.. but my volt gauge still sometimes drops quickly.. other than that it charges a 14 even at idle.. i have yet to determine if its the belt slipping or the battery not holding a charge for the gauge dropping.. may be a faulty gauge too
sounds to me like the new alt is toast.. are you sure the "new" alternator has all the terminals connected?
get your "toasted" alt rebuilt - usually isnt expensive.. then toss in the new alt and try another battery..
my car runs alot better, i had my alt gutted and rebuilt, with the amperage bumped up to 115 amps.. but my volt gauge still sometimes drops quickly.. other than that it charges a 14 even at idle.. i have yet to determine if its the belt slipping or the battery not holding a charge for the gauge dropping.. may be a faulty gauge too
#5
Might be a drain somewhere, can try putting one of those quick disconnects on the negative terminal of battery and leaving it disconnected when car not in use. Not really a solution to the problem but its what I always do since car is only a weekend toy.
#7
In Full Autist Cosplay
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maybe a short or something.. but i really doubt its a short..
ill betcha the "good" alt isnt putting out a charge
OR maybe it is putting out a charge, but only like 20 amps.. barely enough to cover the headlights or something..
ill betcha the "good" alt isnt putting out a charge
OR maybe it is putting out a charge, but only like 20 amps.. barely enough to cover the headlights or something..
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#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Check the ring terminals on the main fuse box. Mine were loose and that caused my gauge to read around 12 volts. It made me think my alternator was bad. A service center found the problema dn saved me $150+
#10
Well, if there was a drain, the car should run normally when you have it running. My car runs at 12.5 volts, not 14.4. If there was enough of a drain to make the car read 12.5 volts, it would NEVER start. But mine does! If I had no volt guage, I wouldn't think there was a problem - unless I leave the dome light on, or radio playing while the car is off.
The car doesn't want to charge properly - and I don't know why!
3 new 4 gauge grounds, new starter wires, new belts a new pulley, a replaced alternator, a new battery.
I guess I'll have to check the wires.....again.
The car doesn't want to charge properly - and I don't know why!
3 new 4 gauge grounds, new starter wires, new belts a new pulley, a replaced alternator, a new battery.
I guess I'll have to check the wires.....again.
#11
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
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Sounds like your grounds are solid.
Check for corrosion at the eyelet crimp on the primary alternator wire.
With the engine running measure the volts at the battery, then at the alternator output.
They should be exactly the same.
Check for corrosion at the eyelet crimp on the primary alternator wire.
With the engine running measure the volts at the battery, then at the alternator output.
They should be exactly the same.
#12
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There are a couple of things to check:
1. Try and have the battery checked( the Alt may have killed it)
2. Sometimes those tests aren't always accurate, had like 6 bad rebuilt alt in a row last year. You could buy a new one see if does the same thing, if it does take the new alt back get back your money.
1. Try and have the battery checked( the Alt may have killed it)
2. Sometimes those tests aren't always accurate, had like 6 bad rebuilt alt in a row last year. You could buy a new one see if does the same thing, if it does take the new alt back get back your money.
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