So today I was reinstalling my intake after removing some of the emissions and painting the lim and uim and while removing the lim I had broken 2 of the omp lines. Well I am trying my best to rap up this project as it hit the 1 year mark on the 7th so I decided instead of waiting on a set of omp lines I would figure something else out. Went to napa and found some 1/4" copper tubing. Well this fits right over all the nipples and then I soldered them for a good strong seal. I think this is going to work great and hold up a whole lot better then plastic stock ones but I was wondering if I was the first one to try this. Has anyone else done or seen this done before? This will most likely not work if you have not removed some of the emissions like the air pump and all the metal vacume lines. Here is a picture of the first one installed.

 

Very interesting but I'd be a bit worried. Does either joint move? I'd think the engine does. If so you may be in for trouble. Copper or solder might bend back and forth until it snaps. I'm still curious so let us all know if it works out. But if your oil pressure gauge ever drops to zero then you got a catastrophic leak. Pull over immediately and shut off the engine before it gets fried, within 30 seconds I mean. I hear you can't even rebuild a rotary that's starved for oil too long, b/c every part is mangled.

 

yea I'm a little wary about having soft metals near high heat and trusting them with oil delivery..... while it's an interesting idea, I would recommend getting the stock lines back on there. I wouldn't trust solder-sealed high pressure joints either.

 

I trust the joints and there will not be any movement between there as far as i know. Ill obviously keep a close eye on things but I do think this should last longer then stock lines.

 

Use teflon tube. I bought it from the same place as in this writeup, but I decided against installing it (I'm premixing).

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/C...njection_Lines

 

High pressure? It's the OMP, not the oil cooler lines...

 

Maybe not internal pressure, but they'll probably experience a lot of bending stresses, and solder especially is pretty bad at dealing with that.

 

^+1 I say do the DIY OMP Lines.

 

I work in the refridgeration business and I would not be worried about the copper lines themselves. All lines from a compressor are copper and are also brazed; and those connections can handle some crazy pressures in addition to the compressor constantly moving. I would not be worried about them bending if they can handle a rubber/metal flex compated to the solid mounting that this application has. The only thing I would be worried about is the brazing of dissimilar metals, but if you take care and use the right rod you should be fine.

 

I could see vibration but what moverment are people talking about both ends of the line are stationary on the block not like one is on the motor and the other on ther body then you would need more flex. Like fc austin said refrigeration lines see much higher presseure then those will. I like it those brittle stock lines scare me to death

 

I agree, but I would pre fill the tubes the first time prior to final assembly at the top, remember the volume the OMP puts out is rather minute, and it would take a while for the omp to fill the 1/4" tubes in comparison to the 1mm stock tubes that you are replacing.

kenn

 

^good idea

 

i made my omp line out of that tephlon tubing on that write up on this page. worked very good. i also slid over some fabric braded sleave to help against fraying and they work good. if you do this and dont prefill the line then you could just run premix till they fill up. they were cheap to make i think like $20 max.

 

Ohhh I was thinking oil cooler lines for some reason. Hmmm, still interesting, and less to worry about. Let us know if they work out in the long run.

 

i vote bad idea. seems like those solder joints might fail eventually. thats just me though.

 

Copper line is great. Solder is bad. I would find someting else to connect it. I solder copper to aluminum and brass all the time at work knowing it will break eventually. Even with 1/2mm of movement after a couple months the solder joint breaks.

 

Brazing may work better, but seriously go with the teflon lines. If you ever bump it for whatever reason, working on the car or road debris, it won't break or kink like copper could.

 

Seems to me Mazda already fought this battle in the original design. Why wouldn't they have used lines the same as the rats nest hard lines instead of using something totally different?
Maybe a slight difference in the angles of the oil injectors required having some flexibility of the attatchment of the lines?
Or possibly assembly problems required some flexibility in the lines?
Or maybe the visibility of the oil in the lines allows a visual check for proper functioning of the OMP system?
Or maybe heat soak into the lines caused oil to cake on the inside walls causing a reduction of flow?
Or maybe the a reaction between the metal & the oil and the heat caused a deterioration?
Or maybe it was just cheaper to do it that way?
Maybe the possibility of cracking in the joints from heat cycles or vibration caused failures?
Maybe replacement required paying a plumber?

Pick one you like or just get out the torch and have at it.

Ramses666

 

Very nice.

Copper tube will be fine. It handles vibration without an issue.

I would have brazed instead of soldered, but there should not be a problem with solder.

 

I'm about to do this modification to my car, i will post pics if anyone is still interested?

 

Old thread but in any case.

I did mine this way and there work very good and easy.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=Omp+lines

But copper?? I personally would want to stay away from that.

 

nothing wrong with copper aside from the fact that it will eventually oxidize. the lines do not move at all once placed and copper does have a bit of give.

 

Why? It melts close to 2000 degrees F. Think about what temperature the teflon lines melt. From MSC website, the working range is -320°F to +500°F. I've heard of guys using brake lines before with great results. I tried it, didn't turn out so well for me. I just don't have the finesse required to weld stuff that small with a wire welder.

 

Silver soldering should hold just fine. Many carbide tipped cutting tools have the chunk of carbide silver soldered in. It seems to hold up good enough.