ok..so...i depress the clutch all the way down, put it in gear, then, if i BARELY let the clutch out, it starts to move, i mean, absoultly no slip. i have a act s/s clutch with extreme pressure plate, but i did not tighten the screws with a torque wrench, but ijsut tightened it to wear it contatcs teh flywheel surface. So, is this wat happens wen you become naive?. or maybe there is air in my lines and this is causing it??..i dunno..ima bleed the system toomrow, but thought i post to see if this has happend to anyone else b4.

thanks, ut

 

The only dowsides of overtightening is either stripping the treads or snapping the bolts.&nbsp It sounds like you've got hydraulic problems - the heavier PP from ACT tends to stress the stock hydraulics even more.&nbsp If you're running on original hydraulics from the factory, change them all NOW.


-Ted

 

oo...good to kno ...i wasnt really excited about dropping the tranny down, just to adjust the bolts.

thanks ted.
~ut

 

I am getting my ACT clutch in about 4 days, do you mean to change ALL hydraulics? Master cyl., slave cyl. and lines?
This will be my 1st attempt at installing a clutch and I am adding a SS clutch line and replacing all bearings but waht else should I replace?

 

mr.ut your problem might also be that your slave cylinder need adjustment.

Spraintz you may not have to change all of that. It depends on how it handles you new clutch. As for other things to replace you may want to think about a clutch fluid with a higher boiling point and some Redline transmission fluid.

 

When replacing the clutch always always adjust the pedal. The adjustment is on the back of the pedal. Usuall different clutches will catch and release at different points. Adjust it the way you like it.

It could be that your master cylinder was worn a little and the stronger pressure plate is causing it to fail now but I don't know. If you hold the pedal down for a long while does the clutch start to engage on its own?? If so then you need the rebiuld. Since the rebild kits are cheap it would be better to rebiuld the master and the slave together and then adjus the pedal.

 

Thanks BLK90TII
I have only had this car about 2 weeks and when I cahnge my clutch I will be changing all my fluids and oils.

Also gonna put a flywheel in while I am at it. What do you think about the RB aluminum one? Not gonna be drag racing.(would rather turn than go in a straight line)

 

yup, just changed my clutch and flywheel. Went with the Xtreme ACT with street disk and a 9lb fly. Runs fine, except I have to adjust the idle up. After removing emissions *hit and the light weight fly it *tries* to idle at about 400-500. As for the pedal, it engages right off the floor. Peeled out in the garage cuz of it My talon and nissan both did the same thing after I changed to stronger clutches. Just adjust the screw (rod) on the back side of the pedal and you'll be good to go.

 

What are the consequences of an undertightened pressure plate?

If you're not going to do the job correctly, why bother?
You're gonna bleed it tomorrow You didn't when you put the car back together

I dunno. I'm just tired of people taking shortcuts. If you don't have the tools, most autopart stores rent them.

If the clutch disengages fully and there are no shifting problems, then the hydraulics aren't an issue. Just, don't expect that old slave to last forever with a new plate. When it quits while you are in traffic and you smack the car in front of you, you will understand.

New clutches will engage quickly. Especially if your old clutch engaged higher up in the pedal travel. You will get use to it. It will change/wear with time.

Do NOT adjust the clutch pedal for PERSONAL preference. Read the FSM for pedal height and free play adjustment.

 

Agreed. Wiring open the auxilary ports is another perfect example.

Canadian tire lets you use tools for free, provided you pay a deposit on them.

 

I agreee TOTALLY with Scathcart and Deead RX7vert on this!! DO THE BASICS, DO THEM RIGHT!!!!

 

We're kinda hyjacking the thread, hey? lol. First thing I did when I got the car was take EVERYTHING apart, and replaced all the "basic" parts that needed attention. (wish I'd videotaped it... it woulda been helpful to a few people. Maybe I'll do it to my N/A....)

Example: when buying a new exhaust, also save for the money for a proper fix to open your auxilary ports, like an rpm switch and an electric air pump.

As for the actual question, I have nothing to add that hasn't already been said. Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder, and then adjust the clutch.

 

I agree, normally if your gonna buy a new clutch you would go ahead and spend the extra 30-40 dollars to get the hydraulics parts redone also and of course you would tighten the pressure plate to specs and so on.

As far as adjusting the clutch the FSM is for the OEM clutch and there is plenty of room for setting a personal preference of engagement and still have the appropriate amount of free play and pedal height. Aftermarket Clutches change things a bit and will require adjustment of the pedal.

 

Dude, I just realized how relatively cheap the clutch hydraulic parts are. I think I'll just replace them

 

Yes.&nbsp A new clutch usually puts enough stress on the hydraulics that they will fail one by one.&nbsp It is only three components (clutch master, flex hose, and clutch slave) - if you can afford it, change them all if they original on the car.&nbsp These all tend to fail on clutch jobs, especially on aftermarket clutch kits with stronger pressure plates.

Typically, resurface flywheel and swap throw-out (release) and pilot bearings (and pilot bearing seal).


-Ted

 

And if you'er feeling ambitious, replace the transmission seals also.

Hey reTed, ever retorque the engine tension bolts while the flywheel is out being cut? I was told by two mechanics(one dealer old timer and a mechanic friend that lived near me) that the engine bolts loosen up with time. They said that this was one of the reason why some rotaries don't last too long after a clutch job.
I think they worded it like this:
Loose engine because of RPM and mileage + new clutch + newly acquired taste for abusing driving because of new clutch = Rebuild

I haven't seen this because noone seems to bother with it except during the rebuild.

 

I read somewhere, think it was Mazdatrix, that it is also wise to change the transmission front cover and seal because wear from the release bearing sliding on the shaft can cause excess lateral play of the bearing.

The part it not too pricey so I think I am gonna get all the replacement parts and do it right but how difficult is it to replace that cover?

Thanks

 

Uh, don't do this on any FC.
The stock tension bolts have "stat-o-seals" under them, and they should NOT be backing off.&nbsp These seals are also "one-time" seals, so once you crank the tension bolt, you lose the original seal of the tension bolt that holds back coolant.&nbsp I would not recommend doing this!&nbsp Stock tension bolt torque ratings from Mazda is kinda low (25-28lb-ft) so they are not on that tight in the first place.


-Ted