ok, i have been trying to get my car to idle right for 3 days now. it will idle perfectly fine at 800rpm but if i rev it over 2k it wont catch itself to idle and just dies. i was wondering if there is anyone that knows exactly where i should put the settings on my throttle body and variable resistor to at least have a start point because they seem so out of wack that i cant figure out what to do. any help is appreciated

 

use a multimeter its in the archives i think, worked for me
dont use the 'test light' method, its really not as accurate as using a multimeter on your tps

 

tps is already set, im almost positive that is no longer the problem. the idle is rock solid with no bouncing its just that when i take it out of gear and let my foot off the gas, the needle just drops and it stalls, it wont catch itself at 800 unless i help it

 

does somebody at least know where to set the variable resistor? i heard somebody say turn it all the way counterclockwise then 1/4 turn in but it seams like it just keeps on turning and never stops both clockwise and counter. also while its idleing i can turn it 2 full turns clockwise and not affect the idle but then turn it 1/4 counterclockwise and it will stall. any ideas?

 

The variable resistor will only turn about 3/4 of a full turn. Clockwise is rich, counterclockwise is.................(fill in the blank). It's only for idle.

It might be part of your problem. But If I were you, I'd buy a factory service manual and read the 'Fuel Section.

Basically, you need to install the initial set coupler. Then set the timing with a timing light. Then adjust the idle speed with the initial set coupler in place. The idea is to try to get the idle speed as close to 750 as is possible with the initial set coupler installed.

When the initial set coupler is removed, then the bac will react and try to maintain a 750 rpm idle speed when a load is put on the engine or when the throttle is returned to idle from wherever you had it.

Another possibility is the dashpot. When the throttle is returned to idle from wherever it was, the linkage hits the dashpots nipple and the nipple slowly (relative term) lets the throttle plates go to the idle stop/setting. If the dashpot is corrupt it will not ease the throttle plates to the idle position, it'll slam the throttle plates closel. Something like that.

There's a picture of the initial set coupler in the fsm. It's free and online.

If the variable resistor turns more than 360 degrees, it's busted. Using a meter on its output wire could tell you if it's still useful or not. It's possible that hyou could find the area that still makes contact that way. The last time I looked at the output of mine was over a year ago and it was in the 2.5volt range. Just my memory to go on. Not reliable. Every car will be different. RX like to idle rich. More is usually better than lean at idle. Idle makes for a sputtering type, missing sound at idle. Like the plugs are not firing consistently. Makes you think its a plug or sparkplug problem when its just a tad too lean at idle.

 

ok well my resistor turns about 30 times so i will need a new one. i have the dashpot set to catch it at about 1/8 throttle and that still doesnt help. im going to check the fsm, what is the initial set coupler??

 

ok now i understand how to get the idle set, i just dont know what connector is the intial set coupler, any pics?

 

They show it in the Fuel Section of the free online fsm. Maybe it's shown in a HAYNES manual also....maybe. The URL to the free online fsm is on this site somewhere.

 

ya i found that, i have the fsm on my computer it just says to connect the initial set coupler but does not show it, i think it is the green 2 pin connector by the trailing coil but im not sure and dont want to put a wire in it if its not right

 

and if that is right, what exactly does it change when i put a jumper wire in there, does it just make it easier to get it to idle untill you have it right?