2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Coil / Igniter wire won’t seat

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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 02:00 PM
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Coil / Igniter wire won’t seat

So I unplugged this guy (pictured right) to get my brake booster out. It took a little effort to remove, but got it. But now I’m trying to just push it in (like a plug wire)

But it won’t hold. Just slides off?

Im pushing as hard as I can.
okay to use a rubber mallet? What gives?

thanks!

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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 05:40 PM
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Just had a hunch. Did I break something off when I pulled this one off?
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 09:10 AM
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Compare it to the other one.

I looked at mine and it looks the same. As far as I can tell.

Using minimal necessary force. Use a pair of long nose pliers, grab the end at the wire part and gently pull the crimp connector/ wire, twist/pull the boot back and pull the connector out of the boot enough to install the end in the coil without the boot stopping it from inserting until it bottoms out
When installed, it should have some resistance coming back out. If it feels loose, tension the tangs very carefully.
Then with the crimped end connector in the coil and fully seated, pull the boot back over the wire until it is seated over the coil. Just be careful not break anything and keep the end and the boot fully seated.
Repeat if necessary on this and other coils.
If the boot is sticky, add some lube. Preferably something with silicone. Oil based will deteriorate the wire and boot. I have used NO-OX before. Just wipe away the excess. It probably isn't a bad idea to add some dielectric to the crimp connectors too. A very light but thorough coating is sufficient.

Last edited by Jeff76; Mar 8, 2025 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 09:17 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you might want to go to the next step, those are the original plug wires. if you measure the resistance with an OHM meter, they need to be under 16K Ohms, and should be around 8K
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 10:06 AM
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I still can’t seem to get this sucker on there. Thinking about getting new wires anyway to see if there’s a difference or what? I can’t figure it out???
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
you might want to go to the next step, those are the original plug wires. if you measure the resistance with an OHM meter, they need to be under 16K Ohms, and should be around 8K
I think I’m gonna order up some news ones. I’m assuming they’re original, but don’t know. It’s the one way to know for sure though.

I’ll try what was also mentioned about getting the boot pulled back. See if that was it.
thanks!
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 04:14 PM
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New wires ordered. But get this. Just for grins and giggles I swapped em, and they both seat perfectly fine! Beats me!!!
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Old Mar 9, 2025 | 10:15 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by todzilla220
I think I’m gonna order up some news ones. I’m assuming they’re original, but don’t know. It’s the one way to know for sure though.

I’ll try what was also mentioned about getting the boot pulled back. See if that was it.
thanks!
Original Yazaki wires like those will have a date on them.
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Old Mar 9, 2025 | 10:15 PM
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I just had this issue, I ordered parts off of RockAuto and need wires. They did not have the NGK ones in stock at the time and I bought some of the cheaper BWD branded ones.

I was having weird issues with misfires and noticed they kept popping off the coil packs. I kept the old NGK ones I took off and put them back on and they seated perfectly.

I will never buy anything other than NGK wires.
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 05:11 PM
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Oh good. I ordered the NGK’s. lol.
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by todzilla220
Oh good. I ordered the NGK’s. lol.
Definitely always buy the NGKs. This has been nothing but a headache for me with the BWD ones. I just needed them at the time and it was a mistake.
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