Clutch and oil pan
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Moorhead, MN
Clutch and oil pan
Hey everyone. I have an 87 turbo. My clutch is starting to go out and I also have a leaking oil pan gasket. Is it beneficial to replace them both at the same time? Pull the engine or no?
Let me know your thoughts. I already know to use permatex ultra black instead of an oil pan gasket and ordered a clutch kit from racing beat.
Let me know your thoughts. I already know to use permatex ultra black instead of an oil pan gasket and ordered a clutch kit from racing beat.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 231
From: Alexandria, VA
The oil pan can be removed without pulling the engine. A few of the bolts in the front of the pan may be a little hard to get to, but with some patience you'll get them out. A 1/4" drive socket set an a small 10mm wrench will get the job done. You'll probably need to remove the oil pickup tube too. So, don't forget the gasket for that tube. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry before reassembling. When I did this, I used four studs to help align the pan while mating both surfaces with the sealant. Hand tighten the nuts on the studs while keeping the pan mated to the block. Once most of the bolts are in then you can remove the studs.
You might want to replace the rear e-shaft seal and stationary gear oring while you're at it. It's a little more work because you'll need to remove the flywheel. It was one or both of those items that were leaking on my car that lead me to believe my oil pan was leaking.
You might want to replace the rear e-shaft seal and stationary gear oring while you're at it. It's a little more work because you'll need to remove the flywheel. It was one or both of those items that were leaking on my car that lead me to believe my oil pan was leaking.
Last edited by Hot_Dog; Apr 12, 2025 at 09:47 PM.
Rotary Evolution
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 445
Likes: 137
From: in the swamp
tough call, if it was a simplified engine with no emissions it might be easier to pull the engine out. personally i hate doing clutch jobs on cars on jackstands. the oil pan leak would give me some reason to want to pull the whole thing.
also, just because people sell oil pan gaskets doesn't mean you should use one. The FC oil pan seals better without a gasket, just use RTV alone. the engines never were built originally with an oil pan gasket.
also, just because people sell oil pan gaskets doesn't mean you should use one. The FC oil pan seals better without a gasket, just use RTV alone. the engines never were built originally with an oil pan gasket.
Last edited by notanymore; Apr 13, 2025 at 08:21 AM.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
if the engine stays in the car, i would do this as two separate jobs,
job one pull the trans, replace the clutch and rear main seal (also clean it, maybe its not the pan; it is but one can hope)
then job two pull the pan. why? the pan has an engine mount on it, so if you pull the pan AND the trans the engine isn't really being held in by much, its probably ok
if the engine is simplified, ie no emissions. then maybe you'd just pull the engine?
job one pull the trans, replace the clutch and rear main seal (also clean it, maybe its not the pan; it is but one can hope)
then job two pull the pan. why? the pan has an engine mount on it, so if you pull the pan AND the trans the engine isn't really being held in by much, its probably ok
if the engine is simplified, ie no emissions. then maybe you'd just pull the engine?
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