Jere Urso

I bought an oil pan baffle and new oil pan gasket. Should the gasket go on between the baffle and engine or between baffle and oil pan?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

You can use two gaskets or silicon. A lot of people prefer to just use silicon only.

Jere Urso

I only ordered one gasket so I guess I'll use silicone for the baffle and oil pan clearance.
What kind of silicone?

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I'd use RTV Black, the one meant for oil pans. I used RTV Gray on my last build for oil pan stuff, and that worked fine as well.

Jere Urso

Okay thanks!
Should I put the gasket between the oil pan and baffle and silicone between the engine and baffle or vice versa?

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

i would recommend "the right stuff" myself. have used RTV black before and had to redo it using the right stuff. same process done for both but no more leaks after the second attempt.

Jere Urso

Gonna use permatex ultra black between the oil pan and oil pan baffle. Let that dry. Then put the gasket between oil pan baffle and engine.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Don't let it "dry" let it get "tacky" than assemble

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

How come no one mentioned needing longer bolts? Especially if you use gaskets. Without gaskets, I'm sure the stock ones will work.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Don't let it dry before assembling. The gasket is not required, but since you have it do this.

This assumes the engine is still installed in the car.
1. Put a small amount of of sealer on the pan surface.
2. Put the baffle on top of the sealer.
3. Put another small amount of sealer on the baffle.
4. Put the gasket down.
5. Put another small amount of sealer on top the the gasket.
6. Install pan bolts according to spec.
7. Wipe off excess sealer before it drys.

If the engine is on a stand, place the bottom up and do in this order.
1. Put small amount of sealer on bottom of the engine.
2. Put the gasket down.
3. Put small amount of sealer on bottom of the gasket.
4. Put the baffle down.
5. Put small amount of sealer on bottom of the baffle.
6. Put pan down.
7. Install pan bolts according to spec.
8. Wipe off excess sealer before it drys.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

very true...listen to this guy.

Jere Urso

I was thinking that about the bolts too. Does anyone know the exact specs of the oil pan bolts? And how much longer you think would be good?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Here is what I installed a few years back, yes with gaskets.


The bolts I used were like the stock FB oil pan bolts but they had threads all the way to the end. I somehow found enough of them in my 6mm x 1.00 bucket of bolts. So if you have a bunch of oil pan bolts to sift through, look for the ones that have threads all the way to the end. They will still grip as much of the engine's threaded holes as the stock ones do, if using gaskets on each side. Of course your mileage may vary. My advice is to test fit a bunch of different lengths and see what fits best for you. Because, you know, that's what I had to do.

Jere Urso

How the hell would I find longer bolts that fit without ordering?

Jere Urso

I know it sounds stupid but I'm looking everywhere.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Measure the depth of the bolt hole and also the thickness of the baffle and number of gaskets. If you wish to use any washers, their thickness also needs to be considered. I bought a few allen head stainless bolts from Fastnal and ACE Hardware and gave them a try to find the best length.

You could also go the stud route. Here are some the Banzai sells for this oil pan brace that might work.

GSL-SE Oil Pan Brace