cleaning inside cranck case
#1
cleaning inside cranck case
I bought an 86 a couple months ago. It has some problems, because it sat for 4 years. One thing that bothers me is the dirty oil. my 88 always looks like I have new oil in my cranck case it never gets dirty.
my 86 it is black after a week, so this is what i was thining..
drain all the oil and replace it with AFT and a cheap oil filter. I start the car for just a a moment to get the AFT all through the motor and oil cooler. I will let it set for 12 hours then start it again. then repeat.
the only thing I am worried about is lubrication. the motor will only run for a few seconds at a time. think there is anything to worry about?
my 86 it is black after a week, so this is what i was thining..
drain all the oil and replace it with AFT and a cheap oil filter. I start the car for just a a moment to get the AFT all through the motor and oil cooler. I will let it set for 12 hours then start it again. then repeat.
the only thing I am worried about is lubrication. the motor will only run for a few seconds at a time. think there is anything to worry about?
#2
DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!
If you have lots of gunk in your oil pan, remove it and clean it.
For God's sake people, leave the atf where it belongs, in the auto tranny.
If you have lots of gunk in your oil pan, remove it and clean it.
For God's sake people, leave the atf where it belongs, in the auto tranny.
#3
Opinions are like........
Don't think. Its dangerous
Just perform frequent changes(every 500 miles or so) using high quality oil. It will slowly(which is a good thing) clean out any crud that you THINK is there.
If you want, try this.
Buy 2 quarts MMO. Add 1 quart about 100 miles prior to your next oil/filter change. Change oil, drive 1000 miles and repeat. After two times, my oil looks almost as good as new. I now change the oil about every ~2000 miles. And, I haven't needed to add MMO to the engine oil ever again. MMO is thin. So I don't care to always run it at the 20% ratio that the 'MMO stockholders' recommend.
Just perform frequent changes(every 500 miles or so) using high quality oil. It will slowly(which is a good thing) clean out any crud that you THINK is there.
If you want, try this.
Buy 2 quarts MMO. Add 1 quart about 100 miles prior to your next oil/filter change. Change oil, drive 1000 miles and repeat. After two times, my oil looks almost as good as new. I now change the oil about every ~2000 miles. And, I haven't needed to add MMO to the engine oil ever again. MMO is thin. So I don't care to always run it at the 20% ratio that the 'MMO stockholders' recommend.
#4
Thin is not so bad. If you use 20W-50 and add a quart of MMO your engine will love you for it.
I guess I am one of those "MMO stockholders". That's some good $hit. I am often tempted to drink it to clean out my stomach
Oh yeah, dump some in the gas tank also.
I guess I am one of those "MMO stockholders". That's some good $hit. I am often tempted to drink it to clean out my stomach
Oh yeah, dump some in the gas tank also.
#5
Opinions are like........
Originally posted by rxseven
Thin is not so bad. If you use 20W-50 and add a quart of MMO your engine will love you for it.
I guess I am one of those "MMO stockholders". That's some good $hit. I am often tempted to drink it to clean out my stomach
Oh yeah, dump some in the gas tank also.
Thin is not so bad. If you use 20W-50 and add a quart of MMO your engine will love you for it.
I guess I am one of those "MMO stockholders". That's some good $hit. I am often tempted to drink it to clean out my stomach
Oh yeah, dump some in the gas tank also.
With 20/50, 20% would be awesome. I hate 20/50 but if you thin it out with MMO, I won't complain.
I use it for premix too. Lubes the fuel pump, cleans the injectors, and should also prevent engine carbon buildup.
#6
MMO is just AFT. I am not going to drive the car only start it for a few moments to recirculate the AFT in the oil cooler and bearings. then to clean all of it out I would drain the AFT and replace it with cheap oil. drive for about 10 minute and then change it back to Mobile 1.
AFt has the lubricating properties to lube a automatic which is demanding.
Does any one think it would be a good i dea?
AFt has the lubricating properties to lube a automatic which is demanding.
Does any one think it would be a good i dea?
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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That is a VERY, VERY bad idea. It will quickly destroy your engine.
If you have problems with cronically dirty, it usually means that your side seals are worn out and combustion gas is bypassing into the oil.
If you have problems with cronically dirty, it usually means that your side seals are worn out and combustion gas is bypassing into the oil.
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#8
Opinions are like........
MMO is not ATF.
Mobil1 is synthetic and is not needed in an NA rotary.
Rotaries are oil injected and synthetics don't burn as quickly as dino oils.
I will have to agree with Aaron concerning the oil contamination from combustion blow by.
Rxseven also mentioned to remove your oil pan and clean it. This is the only way to prove that there is or isn't crud.
I think that the oil pan gasket shouldn't be anymore expensive than wasting money on ATF/Oil/Mobil1........
Mobil1 is synthetic and is not needed in an NA rotary.
Rotaries are oil injected and synthetics don't burn as quickly as dino oils.
I will have to agree with Aaron concerning the oil contamination from combustion blow by.
Rxseven also mentioned to remove your oil pan and clean it. This is the only way to prove that there is or isn't crud.
I think that the oil pan gasket shouldn't be anymore expensive than wasting money on ATF/Oil/Mobil1........
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