I read the FSM and searched a bit.

From what i understand its quite simple.

1.Hook it up to L1 and it should point at the yellow mark.
2. Hook it up to the T1 and it should point to the red mark.




BUt when i hook the up. it always points to the yellow mark. L1 or T1 it points at the yellow mark everytime.


Thanks in advance

Chris-

 

This is one of the writeups i ran into.







Ignition Timing(Dave Henning)

I did the timing on my '86 sport recently. I didn't use a tachometer for 2 reasons:

1) I could not just go buy a tachometer and expect it to give a proper reading since they are all set for cylinder types of engines.

2) The tachometer on the dash seems to work just fine.

The timing only requires a light with the inductive coil on it. It should state this on the box and can be purchased at WalMart or store of your choice for <$30. Don't get the expensive ones with the dials they aren't worth it.

Hook the inductive coil around the leading wire to the front rotor. Then connect the other wires to the battery and ground. Loosen the bolt to the crank angle sensor. It is brass so be careful not to strip it. Do not remove the screws on the sensor plate, it does no good.

Turn on the engine and let it warm up to idle. Pull the trigger of the light and point at the pulley at the base of the crank angle sensor. There are 2 marks, yellow for leading and red for trailing. They may be difficult to distinguish. The timing light should be hooked close to the coil and not the spark plug.

There is a pin above the pulley to match the yellow mark to. If you cannot tell which color is which just turn the crank angle sensor (it pivots after you loosen that bolt) and get one of the marks set with the pin.

Disconnect the inductive coil and re-connect it to the trailing wire for the front rotor. Point the gun at the pulley again and squeeze the trigger. If there is a mark (should be red but maybe can't tell) lined up with the pin then you are done and should shut off the engine and tighten the bolt to the crank angle sensor. If the mark is _way_ off then you confused the colors and should redo the leading timing until the other mark is lined up properly, then redo the trailing timing.

If you cannot reconcile the marks to both line up properly, make sure you are using the proper wires. They are marked L1 and T1. If they still do not line up then ask more people on the list for advanced help. BE CAREFUL!!!! While adjusting the sensor the engine is at operating temps. This may cause you to want to use a rag to turn it and not burn your hand. However, the fan and some belts are in very tight proximity and could hurt you if you don't take care.

The Haynes manual pictures should point out the sensor. If you aren't sure where it is, it is on the driver's side and behind where the a/c and power steering (if you have it) pumps are located. It has a black cover with 2 screws on top. It is about 2-3" in diameter on top and smaller as it joins the engine. Good Luck, it takes about 1/2 hour even while you are learning. It took me more time to go buy the light.





My question is this. By hooking up the inductive coil to the T1 the red mark should automatically line up with the pin?

 

Idle timing is -5 Leading, -20 trailing. if rpms are above idle (750 rpm), the timing will advance to about 14 deg, 0 split (leading and trailing the same). If you set your timing with the idle too high, your timing will be 20 degrees too retarded.

You are seeing 0 split, so you need to get your rpms down. This is usually done by shorting the initial set coupler, green 2 prong connector near the battery i believe

 

I have not adjusted anything.
I just want to see if its right. SO as soon as it hits over 750rpm i wont get the right reading?

My idle was at about 800.

I didnt know that having the rpms below/at 750 was so crusial. Oh well. Ill check it tommorow.
Oh and i jumped the green connector. I clearly remember no diff in the idle when grounded.


Thanks glx90rx7

 

RPM's don't matter until 1200 rpm, anything below that should be FIXED TIMING (unless the motor us cold or the A/C is put to ON or the pwr steering is under load).

Motor MUST be fully warmed up. Cold motor will show timing advanced approx +5* L and
T.

Initial set coupler just puts the BAC at a fixed duty cycle.

I've no idea why your seeing 20*ATDC on both lead and trail.

 

!!!

It was fully warmed up. NOa/c no extra load on the PS as far as i know.
SO was the comment about it advancing 14 deg. over 750 rpms is incorrect?


This is not looking too good then.

 

Is it the same for turbo car's???

 

************************************************** ************************
That is not right at all.

 

SO is this bad for my enigne?


I once had the driverside wiring harness redone after some bad electrical shorts. COuld this be part of the reason?

 

Try this. The timing clamp you put on the sparkplug wire...........install it waaaay down near the sparkplug itself. See if that makes a difference. Keep all the trail wires clear of the lead wire your checking out.

IF the timing light seems intermittent, then reverse the direction the clamp is on the sparkplug wire.

 

THe timing is perfect.

I stole my moms red nail polish and made the trailing mark very obvious.

Sorry to waste everyones time. It was a simple mistake. Maybe im going color blind?

I must have checked thisd timing like 7 diff times in 2 days. And it always looked yellow.


I do have one question.
DO s4 turbo ecus advance more timing since they use lower compression rotors compared to s5 ecu?
Just a random thought cause i used s4 ecu on s5 engine.

 

i was 4 degrees off, my bad