Kenshin XI

iTrader: (2)

I need to do an oil change on my car and my car has over 100k miles on it. Should I get the high mileage which is part synthetic so im not too sure about that one or regular motor oil? What would you recommend?

GregW

Being that my volkswagen had the hell flogged out of it for over 500,000 miles on halvoline and fram filters I would say that "high milage" stuff is just tiger ****.

Go buy oil and a filter and dont think too much about it.

Now if your going to be above 10k rpms for 30 min at a time racing then put a little thought into it.

2 cents

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

Castrol GTX 20W-50
Also, this should've been asked in one of your previous posts.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Redundant posts are one way to build up ones post count.

Consolidate my wankle head friend. Consolidate.

And, before you post your next question, I strongly suggest you refer to this informational aid:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...icah-gif-1.gif

clokker

iTrader: (2)

My engine just passed 200K, runs quite well on regular Castrol 10w/30.
I promised her that at 500K I'd switch to synthetic...the carrot/stick approach to longevity.

whodatRX7

Recommend either of the following.
- Castrol GTX 20W-50
- Valvoline VR-1 20W-50

I have an '88 GTU with over 235k mi. on the original engine! About the last 80k mi I have been running with the VR-1. Quite a few track miles on her up until about 220k mi. Still runs well; just have not driven her much over the last her ears. In the early days I used a 20W-40 since the wider range was not generally recomended. The 20W-50's got better, and easier to obtain, so I switched.

Check the FSM regarding for recommended viscosity vs. temperature. I have attached an excerpt for the 2nd Gen. Note that for -10 deg F to 85 deg F, a 10W-30 is recommended. For temperatures over 85 deg F, they recommend a viscosity up to 40 or 50. Remember, this is for petroleum-based oil. I live in San Diego, CA and the inland valleys can go above 85. Additionally, I traveled a lot to the central vally and desert where it would be above 85. Tie that in with the track days, and that is why I chose 20W-50.

At one point I thought about the Hi-Mileage oils, but could not find / understand the benefit. If I had an old, abused (maybe even piston) engine, I might go that route. But, my engine is in very good shape and I'll stick with the current oil. (Until it might finally blow and I need to rebuild.)


Later,
John

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

I'd avoid the "high mileage" oils - they are designed specifically not to burn as easily - and the 7 is designed to meter a little in with the fuel and burn it. So it seems to me those two goals might be at odds with each other, although I don't know for certain.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

from what I was told, high mileage oil is nothing but just regular oil with a few drops of brake fluid in it. Brake fluid makes rubber swell/expand so it will help the engine to "seal better"

Dunno if it's true, but honestly if the car works with regular oil all the time, why make the switch? I use 20w50 and maybe 0/5/10w40/50 for winter months only.

oh, I use Real Synthetic (IV/V) btw.

swkiller

iTrader: (1)

ive been using vr1 20-50w since i got my car. when i took apart the motor the bearings looked so good that im reusing them. from what i know. Vr1 is a racing oil. it basically has anti-foaming additives. but most of all it has a higher percent of ZINC than your typical oil. bad for catalytic converters but in the long run oh so good for the motor. do your research about high zinc oils. for $4.86 a quart why not lol. i also hear Castrol 20-50 is good too.