loskeezy

Well to make a long story short... I finally got my S5 n/a started up after replacing clutch, TB Mod (still have thermowax), emissions removal, p/s & a/c removal and all other little tune up things. It started first crank ( after fiddeling with the ignition and clutch b/c the car would do the exact same thing with clutch pressed or not.. which was the clock would just go off) < clutch interlock switch maybe??

I warmed it up and noticed there was a misfire. Then my dumbass broke the CAS stud. I did get the codes however. Questions i have......

1. I have read both that the stud has threads or that it's a push in type. which one is it?? ( I do have a spare front cover so could i just take the stud out of that and screw it in place of the broken one??)

2. CAS is stuck to front cover. I know how to get it off w/ a rubber hammer and PB blaster, but does mazda still carry the "O" ring for it??

3. Engine would stall immediatly after letting off the throttle when fully warm or cold. Not even think about holding the slightest idle. Other than the obvious of a vacuum leak, could the BAC or TB butterflys cause this?? (BAC ohm when out of car was in spec with FSM but i did receive a code for it)

4. Fuel pump does not run when key to "ON" positions, only when i jumped the yellow connector by pass. strut tower. Anyone have an idea about that?

5. Does S5 AFM have to be level like the S4??

6. When checking the codes, I believe it is the main relay beside the trailing coil, was clicking like craaazy. need to be replaced?

Codes i received: 3 (CAS G sensor), 34 (BAC), and the rest solenoid valve from emmisions i believe.. 25, 31, 32, 33, 38, 40 and 41 (VDI: need to hook up via AP or electronic.)

I need this on the road asap so ANY legitimate help is appreciated greatly.
I have learned everything i know about my car on this forum and through working on it so thanks to everyone for your knowledge.
---5 & 6 port sleeves were removed as well, but i dont want any comment on that since i am just trying it out and have read Tons of info on it.

ps.. I am not very great at electronics so i may need extra guidance in that field. Also, if you feel i asked a stupid question....be nice


THANKS!! <Logan>

scathcart

1. It threads in. Take it out and use a bolt.

2. Yes.

3. Most likely a vacuum leak, or the TB plates set too closed (unlikely). Bac should be sealed at that gasket, and connected to a vacuum line: either the vacuum line or the gasket are potential vacuum leaks.

4. AFM should prime for 2 seconds with the key turned to run, then stop, and not restart until the engine is running.

5. No

6. I have no idea... I don't think that is normal, but it doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. With the key in run, I believe that should just stay closed.