how hard is it to swap out the rx-8 eccentric shaft to my 87 na??? is it just a bolt on or will i need to goof with it. and will it increase my redline?

 

no it wont increase your redline. you dont need to swap your e-shaft... the n/a e-shaft can handle up to 500hp with out breaking. if you are wanting to up your redline you need to rebuild and cryotreat your engine and go with a standalone fuel managment system... and a port job to help out on power.

 

It should bolt right in. Its lighter, and while that won't improve power or raise redline, it does lower the inertia of the reciprocating assembly, allowing for faster acceleration.

 

kinda like a lighter flywheel

 

Tell me... how does cryotreating internal components raise the redline?

 

i didnt mean for the cryoteating to help raise the redline... its just something that would be good to do while the engine is apart and if you are gonna run higher revs then the cryotreating will help the engine from blowing and apex seal and a coolant seal

 

No it wouldn't.

Cryotreating improves resistance to wear, not brittleness.
It would have no effect on coolant seals. Cryotreating has no affect on silicone, viton or rubber.

 

it increases the strength of the coolant channels... i know there is no way you can cryotreat silicone. MY APOLOGIES I DIDNT MEAN THE COOLANT SEAL I MEANT THE COOLANT CHANNEL

 

The Cryo Treating Process:
As stated from www.300below.com It decreases brittleness when done properly. You were correct in the fact that it decreases wear tho.

To get the redline you wish to find, you have to first lighten the complete rotating assembly. Rotors (Racing Beats http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm ) E-shaft counterweights and flywheel. Along with that, you would need the ability to cram the air necessary for the engine to breath properly. This would be some sort of crazy port job, custom intake and a turbo that can flow the required ammount of air within its efficiency range.Then you need the ability to expel said air after ignition. The rotors and counterweights alone are 2300 bucks from Racing Beat. You would be looking at roughly 10k into an engine properly built before stand alone.

Im sure there are other things that need done, but from what I have learned about the rotary and the countless performance piston engines I have built, that is what I know is the good start to what you want.

 

Cryotreating does not affect yield strength, so it would have no affect on the cracking of water jackets.

 

I fail to fall into quick belief from a sales pitch with no empirical data. The theory of cryo treating is the change in temperature allows the conversion of retained austinite into martensite, and none of the data I've read on the subject shows that it would affect yield strength or brittleness.

Regardless, none of this has any affect on the fact that the seal grooves crack from overheating, and improving wear characteristics on such a part will not prevent this.

 

I have my doubt about cryo treatment. Can somebody link me/refer me to an SAE (or some other technical publication) that actually has real data?

 

www.sae.org They have a search engine onsite.

 

So they do. It's not very helpful. Anybody know of a good technical source for this type of information? Something along the lines of material engineering(?).

 

Honestly, there's not a heck of a lot on it. Everything I've read has been through private papers I got at school.

 

waste of time and i doubt the OP realizes that the engine needs to be completely stripped apart to replace the e-shaft. it's not like a piston motor where you can drop it out the bottom of the motor. i came to this conclusion by the term "bolt in", well yes if you mean removing every bolt on the engine then yes i guess it could be considered a bolt in upgrade.