jwolff

Cranks and cranks and cranks but will not start. It has started fine almost every time before, although the colder it is the more it backfires during initial warmups.

It is 24 degrees today, and 35 yesterday when it wouldn't start. It still won't start this morning.

I tried pushing the pedal all the way to the floor while cranking to unflood it.

But, when I try to start it normally again it won't fire. It seems like it's trying, and the garage smells VERY strongly of fuel.

What the heck am I doing wrong?

Icemark

flooded, follow the unflooding proceedue found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread that is found at the top of this section.

Note that the owners manual suggests that you turn the key on, press the gas all the way down once, then release it, then crank with the key when starting in tempatures under freezing; however in your situation, I would not do this until you have unflooded the engine.

deadRX7Conv

What year, mileage, maintenance history?

Every page is full of 'hard to start', flooding issues..........

The dozen or so hard to start rotaries that I've worked on had questionable: plugs, filters, fluids, batteries.....

Carry a can of ether starting fluid in the trunk. It'll start those worn out tired neglected abused leaky injector higher mileage low compression poorly timed incorrectly idled low on oil motors.

jwolff

1991 N/A 5 speed
121K
Last oil change was a week ago, also changed out all four plugs and wires. Battery is fairly new, and I hooked it up to a drip charger last night just in case.

Car runs good otherwise. Daily driver. No mods.

deadRX7Conv

What brand wires? what PN plugs?
Change the fuel/air filters. Reclean/dry the sparks plugs.
Use the ether.
Or, using portable heater and preheat the motor.
Make sure all emission/fuel devices are in order(o2 sensor, temp sensor, vacuum hoses.....). Make sure that the MAF spring loaded bullet moves freely.
I'd also clean all battery, power, ground and wiring electrical connections.

Once running, head over to the parts store and pick up several cans of FI cleaner for your next several full tanks of gas.

If truly flooded, oil will have high fuel. You'll need to change the oil again after you get it running.
Advance the timing a little.
And, on my S5, not that I'll recommend it, but I do NOT run spark plug washers. This sinks the plug a little deeper, for quicker starts, better performance, and shorter plug life(which I change yearly anyway).

You should NEVER shut the engine off cold.
And, when you do shut it off, floor it and cut the ignition key at about 4k rpm.

robrxray

Can anyone tell me about starting a stock '86 non-turbo 13b, manual 5spd that has been in storage for a year? Should I put tranny fluid in spark plug holes as if flooded or any other fluids? I live in Florida so the cold doesn't apply to starting up? Thanx in advance I am new to forum.

deadRX7Conv

Was it stored correctly?

Go48

iTrader: (7)

If the car was in running condition when put away and fuel stabilizer was added to and mixed with the gas, just charge the battery and crank away. Hopefully, as dead says, the car was prepared correctly so that the engine internals and other components didn't rust in the humid Florida climate.

Oh...and check for rodent encampments in the engine compartment, and the intake and exhaust.

Alex6969

the atf will rot your seals so only use it in a worse case senerio. a fuel cut switch is always a good idea.

robrxray

thanx to all the responses, this is a great forum. the rx started right up with new battery, but there is an old problem with the idle.The car has high # highway mileage on it, I bought it from the original owner and have kept it stock for now, just replacing minor parts (what ever came up, i.e.) master cylinder, alternator, driveshaft. I put a '91 rear wing and tinted windows and paint. Anyhow, the idle starts out ok (1500rpm+) then drops down gradually to 750-1000 and thats when the surging starts and continues until car stalls out. I have new wires and plugs, and fuel filter. I would like to repair asap. I have pictures to post if I can find my cd

deadRX7Conv

Adjust or replace your TPS.

robrxray

thanx for the dx

DocMazda

my car wont start either. i figured it was flooded, so i did the extreme unflooding procedure of taking out plugs, wiping them with a cloth, pulling the fuel pump plug in the hatch, and cranking the engine with no spark plugs. after that, i have the battery fully charged, placed the spark plugs back in correct order of trailing/leadings (correct pn's inserted. 7's in the leading and 9's in the trailing--all four ngks) the coil-packs are correctly wired. as far as i know there are no air leaks. tried to push start as well (with another car) to no avail. car cranks fine. tried the starter helper fluid stuff, did not work. feels like it wants to start a couple times, but never quite gets there. all i have left to say is...

WTF?!

thanks,
Ry.

ps....88tII.

jn2k108

welcome to the forum. i also had this problem too, but yeah jump starting it is a good idea. also flush ur radiator and do all ur 60k tuneup/checks. WASH THE CAR also would be a good idea.

robrxray

Ru a real doc? I'm in medical is why. Anyhow, I'm sure there is lot of starting info on this site in archives. I don't have any xperience w/ T II (turbo's) and don't know all these codes for cars i.e.) FC,FD's etc. But here is a basic , Pull fuse from fusebox marked EGI COMP, hold down pedal and crank engine 15-20 seconds, shut off. Put fuse back, try to start normal, if not starting still, Try 5-6x