okay, i never thought i would have a problem getting my fog lights to work. don't worry, this is not a repeated nOOb question...read on:

my fog lights were working wicked good. i recently replaced the lights. i got some Xenon H3s, and as most of you know, you need to do some minor modification to get this to wire up. well, i was in a rush to get them hooked up to see how they would look, so i didn't solder them on right away. after a few seconds of "sweet" i think there was a short on one of them. the lights went out. i checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown. i changed the fuse, soldered the connections so nothing would get loose again and short, and i was back in business. i went to sleep happy...

woke up the next morning and the fog lights aren't coming on. i hear the relay go on and off really fast for a few seconds, then nothing. so i'm thinking the relay got fried because of the short. i test the relay and it seems to be working fine. i proceed to test the actual connection to the relay, and i am getting ~12v constant when the fog light switch is in the ON position, or when daytime running lights is on. hook it back up and my fog lights work again

but then they went out again a few hours later at night. today i went back to troubleshooting. now i have NOTHING coming into the relay through the wire. fuse is fine. i don't think it is the switch (it was working fine). i gave it a visual inspection anyway, and saw nothing wrong. is there any other way to test the switch?

also, if you look at the S5 FSM, page T-52, you can see the relay connector. currently i am getting NO VOLTAGE through A and B, but i am getting an ~12v constant from C and D. where does C and D go to?

i don't know, i'm really stumped on this one. any input would be appreciated.

 

when your e-brake is off, and car on. they should be on if the switch is on or off. so I doubt it's the swtich.

assuming it's a canada model.

 

yeah, i know they should be on for DRLs no matter what while driving. however, i am getting NO voltage out of the connector...

 

come on guys, it's so depressing not having these fogs working. they're one of the most important things on the car for me...j/k

but seriously i can not figure this out for the love of me...

troubleshooting with the FSM has told me that my CPU is the cause i hope not...

another thought i have is that maybe a solder point or wire got fried when the short happened...how the hell am i supposed to fine THAT though?

 

come on guys, it's so depressing not having these fogs working. they're one of the most important things on the car for me...j/k

but seriously i can not figure this out for the love of me...

troubleshooting with the FSM has told me that my CPU is the cause i hope not...

another thought i have is that maybe a solder point or wire got fried when the short happened...how the hell am i supposed to find THAT though?

 

^

 

Did you check the wires at the CPU like the FSM says? Did you replace the fuse with a larger one so it wouldn't blow? If you did it may have melted some wires some where. I imagine those Xenon H3's you used have a bit more draw than the stock bulbs.

 

hmmm...so you really think it is at the CPU? i will try to check tommorow. i am kind of wary though, i haven't touched the CPU yet and don't feel like messing with it unless i have to. how do you know what connections are for the fogs on the CPU? is it in the FSM?

no, i left the 15 amp in there. for the record i have blown only 2 of these fuses. one was the original short, and then one was after i heard the relay go all fritzy turning on and off quickly.

and these xenon h3's are rated at 55w just like stock...

again, it is only the fog's that don't work...all other lights are good.

 

i think you may have melted the wiring.

 

great...

so how the hell do i remedy this, because i looked at the harness for a second and just said WTF...

 

i dunno... but i think it may possibly be laid out in the FSM

 

okay, the switch is working fine, i tested that. it is getting ~12v when it is supposed to be getting it. when i unplug the connector for the fog lights from the CPU, the switch no longer gets power.

so somewhere between the CPU and the relay, something is wrong. i suspect the daytime running light unit is fried. if it is the CPU's fault, is there any way to fix that, or do i need a new one?

 

BTW, does anyone know if the switch should be getting ~12v if only your DRLs are supposed to be activated? i am getting about 2v through the switch when DRLs are supposed to be on...

 

i'm thinking it is the CPU. i mean, that is more likely than the wires melting, right? looks like i'm going to have to get a replacement one...shouldn't cost that much though...