Stock Nikki jet
#1
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Stock Nikki jet
I searched the threads and could not find any threads on it I am sure they are out there but I am thinking I have bad jets on primary side what is stock size thanks everyone
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The carb is stock completely, but I am having idling issues after I aggressively backed out of a parking spot. I am just gonna change jets to see if it helps since I have doe every other fix I can think to do.
#7
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Those 95 jets are probably the weber ones that Mazdatrix sells. They are too expensive and have an awful funnel shape, and are probably in reality air bleeds, thus should be avoided. They also have too far a spread between sizes.
The problem with your carb certainly is not jets. What makes you think that backing a car out of anywhere now requires the carb to have bigger jets. That does not make sense.
I think the fact that your carb is stock completely is partly to blame for its problems (old vacuum line probably fell off and now you have a vacuum leak). But if you do a standard rebuild, you'll do more harm than good.
Search the forums for any Nikki carb content I've posted recently. You will find far more info than you could ever use on the subject.
Actually, I'll save you some trouble right now. DO NOT change the needles, the seats or adjust the floats EVER! The originals work. It's all the aftermarket ones in all the kits that ruin carbs. All aftermarket seats are machined incorrectly. It is an industry wide problem. Then the user bends his float tabs trying to get it to stop flooding, and now his floats are ruined.
Just yesterday I had a little trouble with a carb I modified last year. It flooded the rear float bowl after sitting for a couple months. Why did it flood? It has new needles in OEM seats. They tend to stick a bit. I don't know where the old needles are at this point, otherwise I'd swap them back in. I made a mistake because I was new to these carbs back then.
At some point this year I realized my mistake and began keeping the OEM needles, seats and floats together and never had any flooding problems in any carbs since.
The problem with your carb certainly is not jets. What makes you think that backing a car out of anywhere now requires the carb to have bigger jets. That does not make sense.
I think the fact that your carb is stock completely is partly to blame for its problems (old vacuum line probably fell off and now you have a vacuum leak). But if you do a standard rebuild, you'll do more harm than good.
Search the forums for any Nikki carb content I've posted recently. You will find far more info than you could ever use on the subject.
Actually, I'll save you some trouble right now. DO NOT change the needles, the seats or adjust the floats EVER! The originals work. It's all the aftermarket ones in all the kits that ruin carbs. All aftermarket seats are machined incorrectly. It is an industry wide problem. Then the user bends his float tabs trying to get it to stop flooding, and now his floats are ruined.
Just yesterday I had a little trouble with a carb I modified last year. It flooded the rear float bowl after sitting for a couple months. Why did it flood? It has new needles in OEM seats. They tend to stick a bit. I don't know where the old needles are at this point, otherwise I'd swap them back in. I made a mistake because I was new to these carbs back then.
At some point this year I realized my mistake and began keeping the OEM needles, seats and floats together and never had any flooding problems in any carbs since.
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I do apologize I did do a rats best delete and rebuild on the motor and carb car ran great have put 1200 miles on it since rebuilds and had no issues till the parking spot incident and I did replace filter and all that and figured maybe it was the fuel pump so replaced it and put a FPR on it still no luck so I am lost as to what the issue could be car will run like a striped ape at 3500rpm or more but just sputters at anything less I am stuck for sure
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