can the older rx-7's the ones with the 7000 rpm redline safely rev to 8000 rpm's???? or does the rev limiter kick in??? i havent tryed yet cuz i dont want to screw it up.

 

mine goes past 7k, it has a buzzer that comes on that tells you to shift.

 

ya i hate that damn buzzer but i think you can go beyond it...its just apinful listening to it so i usually shift when it goes off but im sure you can go higher

 

just because these engines are smooth, doesn't mean that it's OK to overrev the snot out of them. Apex seals chatter, stationary gears deform, etc, etc, etc.

You probably wouldn't destroy an n/a at 8k, but I wouldn't go past 7500 in a turbo. No point in revving that high anyway on stock ports, there's no power up there!

 

no point in it.. The 89 NA and the FD have better parts in them to allows the higher tolerances associated with 8000rpm

I dont think the engine would blow at 8k , but I wouldnt reccomend it at all

 

Unless you have alot of mods, revving past 7000 wouldnt even net you more power. Your power band falls off at around 6200-6500.

Jarrett

 

i beg to differ i have a stock 87 t2 with the HKS 50mm SS catback and my dyno graph was still going up at 7100 and then it was still going in the upward direction at 7500

oh yeah there was not a filter in the air box but the TID was the stock one

 

Those are mods, arent they? Thats what I was referring to.

 

haha

 

who cares about power loss above 7000rpm....its fun

if most power was made at 3000 rpm and the redline was 7000 would u still go over 3000?

 

IN MY RX7 RACE CAR I FUGGIN RACE IT TO 8 GRAND ALL THE TIME IN FACT MY MONSTER TACK READS OUT 9500 SOMETIMES HEHE

 

te HKS is a stock replacment its not a performance upgrade its on there cause its very quite and its SS and taking out the air filter wouldnt make a huge difference espesually about making power past redline

 

No, as a matter of fact I wouldnt. In fact, I dont redline my TII now. There isnt any point until I get mods.

 

does your monster tach go off around taco stands too?

 

Okay big dog...Post the dyno chart...

Look, you guys and girls want to go rippin around and 8000+ rpms, go for it.

If you think your stock TIIs are making gobs of torqe and power above 7 grand, you are sorely mistaken. I stand by that statement till I get concrete proof.

In the meantime, have fun at 8000+! I know alot of rotary rebuilders that need your money..

Jarrett.

 

well if its a 1st gen your talking about. and if its not the 13b model. u can go as high as you want. not to say that it will end up blowing up. but there should be no limiter on that carburated car!!

 

I agree with J-Rat. You don't have to flog your engines.

Just rev it up high enough so that after you shift, your rpms are at or above your peak torque range.

That may be true, but if you look at your graph, there is a certain point where your tourque starts to fall off. So there is not sense to go past there.

 

I start losing power around 6200 or so. I don't go over 6500...

 

Tach buzzer? I didn't know we even had one until a friend pointed It out a while ago. Mine no work.

 

EXACTLY!

You shift high of peak torque, so you fall BACK into the sweet spot when you shift to the next gear. I make my shifts in the 6000-6500 range.

 

BUT there can be advantages to staying in a gear longer, if hp falloff isn't that bad, you end up with more torque at the wheels... still, overrevving thehell out of your engine is dumb, no, 7500 probably wont' hurt it, but if you're not making power there, then wtf are you up there for? Do you like to see your fuel gauge move or something? Really trying to find an excuse to rebuild so you can port? Just grasping in the dark here...

and 12as are NOT 13bs. Different engines. No limiter, and they don't need one

 

My GSL-SE has a streetport but I don't take it over 7000 rpm. The stock intake manifold and throttlebody are too small and power falls off really fast after this point. With a new induction system I could shift the power band up and get more power but as of now thees no point to shifting any higher. The engine has seen 8100 rpm before but it is slower to shift there. My 2nd gen could go up to 8000 rpm all day and make plenty of power but I usually shifted it at about 7500 rpm. Stock T-II's power falls off rapidly on the top end. Doesn't matter if you shift them at 6500 or 8000. The engine will go up that high but the useful power band won't.

Yes there are advantages to staying up higher in the rpm range on certain engines. If the engine can flow enough, the intake and exhaust are designed properly, and the engine built to handle it, then sure it would be advantageous to stay up there as long as thats where all the power is. The bigger the port job, the higher and narrower the power band is. Racers gears around this.

I've never had a problem with taking an n/a up over 8000 rpm as far as reliability is concerned. I'm not saying however that it is good for it. Turbostreetfighter has a methanol injected, half-bridgeport, twin turbo race engine that uses all stock Mazda internals (bearings, seals, etc.). He takes his up over 9000 rpm under 20+ psi of boost! The 3rd gen engines also had better bearings and lighter components than some of the earlier cars though.

 

im not saying that im makeing a ton more power just like 1-2 HP and probable the same in ft-lbs.

and i have no way of getting my dyno chart on my computer

im not saying that i shift up there hell i usually shift before 5k unless im in an auto cross then i shift when the buzzer goes off just so i dont have to watch the tach

 

I went all the way to 8k in my old 88 SE.