jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

90 NA Convertible - Since my engine is out I had a boy genius idea to take care of my A/C. Before my rebuild my A/C compressor had been spitting black stuff out but worked to some degree, but figured the seal was going. Any thoughts on these questions?

1) Looking at the FSM I think I have the Sanden unit, but I don't know for sure if its factory installed or dealer installed? Window sticker just list the A/C under 'Accessories'? Is there a way to tell?

2) Discountacparts.com list new Sanden compressors for sale. Anyone ever used one from this outfit? I prefer new over rebuilt?

3) Drier is totally corroded and condensor looks really bad too. Wish I never looked. Any recommended sources for these? From searching it appears there are different versions of driers out there that don't fit.

4) Also from searching looks like R134 is not a good conversion and I can use Freeze12 as a direct replacement for R12? As long as I have oil in the compressor I can run it to a shop to recharge, or will it fry the compressor with no freon it it?

5) R/R of components look straight forward from the FSM (after venting the lines). Any advice?

Thanks....

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

every S5 i have worked on had a sanden unit.

R134a works fine if done properly by pulling it into a vacuum before charging and using the appropriate charge level, this is much more critical than R12 and supplementals to R12. you can do a search of R154a, it is better than R134a but the same rules apply. freeze 12 is probably the best alternative but a little tougher to find locally and a bit more expensive.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks. What about removal and replacement (after venting). Can I expect any major difficulties or unpleasant surprises?

I still can't source a drop in exact fit condenser. They are hard to find! Any recommendations? Prefer not to get junk yard ones as they are probably just in poor condition.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

First choice is a clean used compressor-if it has clear mineral oil, it will be fine. If it has goo in it, pass. Second choice is a new compressors. Try to avoid remans. They have a bad reputation, especially anything from Four Seasons (commonly called 4-Seizen's)

If I was doing this with the engine out, I would buy and install a parallel flow condenser. Period.

Yes, there are different driers. Take your old drier with you to the store to match up. One style has the mounting bracket spot welded onto the body of the drier. One style has a smooth case and the bracket is a clamp that is mounted on the car. The tubing threads don't interchange, so get the corrected one. Don't buy it online unless you know what you are getting IS the correct part.

Yes, you can drive the car to a shop to charge-the compressor won't run without a charge in the system.

Regarding the choices of what refrigerant- I have a preference for R12, especially if the oem style condenser is on the car. 2nd choice is R152, then Freeze12.

I would never use R134a with the original condenser in an FC. My opinion, nothing has changed for me. The condensing capacity is inadequate in our cars to effectively balance the system. Charging R1341 is beyond critical if you have the original condenser. There is no correct charge that will work under all conditions. If you do choose to go with R134a, the best bet is to charge at about 22 oz of R134a and then you MUST use a high pressure cutout switch. The cut off is 385psi. You will hit that on heat-soaked conditions. Without a HPCS, you are forced to under charge, and that sucks.

If you replace the condenser with parallel-flow, use any refrigerant you want and it will cool great.

Use only Ester oil for your system, it works with R12, 134a, 152 and freeze12.

Looks like you have a project!


Good Luck!

Jack

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I'm surprised 4-season compressors are not recommended. Most everything out there is 4-seasons, so I'd expect they'd have it figured out better than most.

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

One more thing to ad- may be smart to put in a new expansion valve if it's been dormant for a while. That's located in the evaporator box, under the dash/gloovebox. Another part that's good to bring w/ to the store to match up.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I saw the expansion valve in the FSM and it looked awful hard to get to. I have no idea how hard it is to get out, but if its not to bad I agree I should replace it.

Anyone buy a new condenser that they recommend?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

http://www.ackits.com/c/Parallel/Par...+Aluminum.html

Gonna have to do custom fittings on it. Pull your old condenser use it as a template.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

ACKits.com. Looks familiar so I think I ran across this previously. I was hoping for a direct fit condenser if I could find one.

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

nah, pulling the evap isn't that hard at all. take your glovebox out, there's 3 10mm nuts holding it to the fire wall. You'll need new O-rings where the high/low lines connect @ the firewall, as well as new orings where the expansion valve connects to the tubing inside the evap box. You can do it!

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

So Im looking at this. From what I've read the evaporator is in there and I need to pull this out to change the expansion valve. I guess I should change the evaporator as well?

Any tips?

I read the manual Section U but I'm not sure if the whole black box comes out or not? Got confused in search too.

In search archieve there were clips that people had trouble with. Are these them (pic 2) and how do you unclip. They are unique from what I can see.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't bother the change the evaporator, unless it's damaged. Once you have it all out, just clean out the box and disinfect with a peroxide solution. Rinse it with peroxide until nothing bubbles. Make sure the drain hose is clear running. Rinse the evaporator coil backwards-don't use high pressure water or you will bend the fins. While you have it out, run some mineral spirits through the coil and blow it out with shop air. If it comes out dirty, flush till it's clean. blow it out completely dry.

When you get the new Expansion valve, make sure it is rated for R134a. This will work better on 134 and 152 refrigerants and will also work for R12 and Freeze12 if you go that way.

EDIT: Flush that line from the dryer to the evaporator with Mineral Spirits while you have everything unhooked.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Here's the expansion valve I bought from discountacparts.com. There's no info with it and I'm not sure of the quality, but it does have R134A stamped on the back (cant see in picture). Nothing that says R12 on it though. I plan to use Freeze12.

Jackchild, why the peroxide on the black box?