Yes I searched, before anyone says anything. I didnt find an answer that I thought answered my fully. The a/c system has been left inactive for approx. 3 years. I have already ordered Freeze12 to charge the system. I put the belt on it today just to check and make sure the compressor clutch still works, and wouldnt you know it, I get nothing when I hit the a/c button. I read somewhere that somehow the ecu knows if its charged and wont let it kick on if the system isnt charged. Is this true? Also, what else could I check (if its not the ecu/ no charge thing) to determine if its just faulty wiring or a bad compressor? Even with the clutch not engaged, should the center hub still spin at all? Mine spins at maybe 2 times per second. It might just be build up thats causing it to slightly drag, since it has sat for so long and has had alternator belt residue slung on it since I still run a single pulley and it slips and I go through belts fast. I dont know much about a/c systems trouble shooting. So any help is appreciated. I need a/c really bad, its hot and I need to start daily driving this thing asap. But I dont really have the money to replace a compressor, especially when I dont know if its faulty or not.

 

With the A/C off the compressor shouldnt turn, do a pressure check to determine whether you have enough pressure in the system. Did you use 134a or R12?
Im not familiar with freeze12.

 

Well as I said, the system isnt charged, empty as far as i know. I was just kicking it on real fast to see if it worked before i put $80 worth of refridgerant into it and it go to waste because the compressor is bad. Freeze12 is an R12 substitute. Like I said though, its not turning at full speed, its just dragging on the pulley and slowely turning itself around. The magnets though arent kicking on at all. After reading some more topics though, Im thinking (hoping) its just the pressure sensor thing not letting it kick on. If not that, maybe just a relay. I think after the compressor clutch and pulley rub against each other for a while it will stop spinning. 3+ years of it sitting stationary I can imagine would make things freeze up and stick together and drag.

 

^^Indeed, Im of the same mindset as you about dumping a whole bunch of money into the atmosphere. Chances are, that the O-rings are prolly dried out and it wont hold a charge very long at best. A full R134a coversion is the way to go if you have the money to do so. However, the condenser, orifice tube, O-rings and prolly the compressor will need to be replaced to make it reliable. I live in NC and it gets pretty warm here sometimes, but im going to take mine off and live without it since I have done so for two years. Good Luck

 

There is a pressure switch in the AC line near the receiver/drier. You'll have to bypass it to test the compressor. Only test it momentarily because running it empty can damage the compressor...hence the pressure switch.

 

Ive read that it only takes a can or so worth to make it kick on. So I might just risk that one can and see what it does, so it wont be dry. Now Im only worried about the compressor clutch dragging. I guess all I can do is get it working, then drive it and see what happens. Im thinking once its charged, and driven for a while it should stop dragging like it does. Corrosion, rubber from belts and the likes have probably gummed it up a good bit. Might also spray it with some lube and see if that helps. I just hope it works, Im freaking out cause I just spent $400 I didnt really have to spend, and now this issue, remaned compressor is $269

 

I pulled this from the A/C thread regarding wether it's a good idea to bypass the pressure switch to test:

 

Thanks! I checked it with a jumper wire and it clicks on. Sounds like hell, but I guess it should after its been dry for a few years. Hopefully it will, by some miracle, still hold a charge for at least a week or 2. Guess I will have to go back and replace all of the orings. Shouldnt there only be 4 or 5 joints with orings? Only where it either connects to a piece of hardware, or from soft to hard line... I shall see. thanks again

 

I count at least 10 O-Rings

 

Doesnt look like much fun I hate work like that. Hours just for some o-rings.

Another question. Does anyone see anything mechanicaly dangerous about the compressor slowely spinning, if the dragging issue doesnt go away. Like i said its quite slow, maybe only 1/5 the speed of the pulley. maybe 2 or 3 rotations per second. Hardly enough to make any significant pressure on the system. Will this cause any problems over a long period of time though? All I can figure is it might wear out the clutch magnets/ whatever mechanical surface engages clutch (if any).

Also, what orings do I need? Are they just regular orings? Can I just pick them up at the local parts store? What size, if anyone knows right off hand. Cant seem to find much if any a/c system info on rx7's

 

they have many kits available. your just going to have to surf around various websites til you find what you are looking for. you MAY be able to pick up the kit at a local auto parts store, they have all their parts listed on their websites (auto zone, advance, oreilley, etc) so if you find it there write down the listing/part number or whatever and go there so they can order it for you. it will come in an FC RX-7 kit. you dont have to scour the earth for each size o-ring.
and dude.. stay r-12. get freeze 12 too its cheaper. http://sherco-auto.com/products.htm has freeze 12.. they dont check for your certification for r12 either- im not saying do it without a certification. this doesnt mean a do-it yourselfer fucktard (if you happen to be one) can just do it carefree.. it takes knowledge. and protective equiptment. its Halon dude, be careful.

 

Do the pressure switches go bad? I straight wired the compressor on while I was charging the system. I figured once it was filled I would undo the wire and it would run on its on. Apparently not, it still wont react to the a/c button. When it was jumpered, it was ice cold though! Any ideas?

 

FSM:

http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/Shop_M...AC_systems.pdf

I suggest starting at page 17 in the PDF and check the CIGAR fuse

 

When my system was empty the compressor did not come on. Added freeze 12 and it started to run. I got the kit off of ebay with the oil and leak seal. It has been working ever since. Which in S Florida is a blessing.

 

Im gonna start first thing in the morning on page 16. Maybe I can pinpoint it, and it wont be too costly. had to stop for today as its 5PM and still 104 degrees and humid. This is day 10 of non stop 100+ degree weather. Average during the day this week has been around 104-105... SUCKS!

 

I have the same exact problem, when the compressor was straight wired to the battery it blew nice and cold. But when connected normally the A/C switch won't turn the system on.

 

I'm thinking it's one of three things... I doubt the pressure switch is bad, my money is on:

A: Logicon failure
B: Main A/C relay failure
C: Wiring issue

 

i hope its b or c

 

Probably A :-((

Here are your O-rings.

http://www.autozone.com/N,15201166/s...eResultSet.htm

You need to put a new drier on the system and add a little oil probably about 4 oz, use Ester NOT PAG!

PAG will permantly f-up your system. It reacts badly with the residual chlorine (from the old R12) in your system.

http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP317/...ductDetail.htm


Take the old drier in to the store with you and make them match exactly the one you off the old car. Auytozone has the wrong part number for the FC drier. The correct part is a drier that is listed on another Mazda, either a Bseries truck or the second gen 626, cannot remember which. Point is make them exact match the one off your car or it won't fit.
Good luck!

 

THANK GOD! It was just the Cigar fuse all along. Had all of my tools out ready for a fun day in the heat tracking down another bs problem, and it was the first and easiest one I came to! Now the only downside to a/c is I have removed emissions, no BAC so when I put it into neutral to stop, it dies unless I turn the a/c off prior. Its even idling at around 1600 and it still dies. If I am sitting idle it ownt die, but letting off the gas from 3000rpm or so, and letting it drop, it does die. Guess Ill just have to live with it. My boucny idle couldnt help much either. Maybe a rebuild would semi help it. Thanks to everybody whos helped

 

As I have said in a number of post prior to this. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING / HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN THIS AREA /DO NOT HAVE ALL THE CORRECT TOOLS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM, DON'T **** WITH YOUR A/C. I have over 25 years in the A/C business. The internet is full of a ton of bullshit information but there is also quite a bit of correct information. Proceed as you see fit but don't bitch if it ends up worse than when you started. Don't get me wrong I wish you the best of luck.

 

i just checked the cigar fuse and all that, my compressor only comes on when jumped. it blew cold the first day, then later blew cold, the hot, then cold (all in one trip)... i probably have a leak.
I have a new compressor, and the old drier (for now). I am testing the system for leaks with r134a just to see if it holds. But my system is r12. I also have a new drier on hand.

It is good to know that these could be problems as well.

where is the ac relay?
is it #9 on the drawing above?

forgot to add, my ac condenser fan runs as soon as i turn the key...???
Under the hood was much hotter after a 20 min drive with the ac on, then the same drive without

 

took less than an hour to find that the ac relay is fried.

logicon and clutch wire are fine. too lazy to check sensor, but will get one form the junkyard regardless...

also check hoses with a black light... may have a small leak at one of the fittings, nothing major.

 

The A/C compressor oring size for the Denso compressor is as follows:

11x2mm on the high (small) side
14x2mm on the low (large) side