inflatablepets

Nah, feels the same. I cleaned all that out when replacing the expansion valve. I can't remember how my old FC blew, as that was 10 years ago. Its just not blowing like my other vehicles. Point I was making, is that you CAN use 134 and get cold a/c.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you can but you generally have to overcharge the system or run more more refrigerant to get desirable results versus other refrigerants with this antiquated system without updating parts.

for example i can run as little as 10 ounces and still have the readings within spec, blow ice cold and not cycle the compressor with 152. the systems i serviced all blew as cold as a brand new car with the standard 1lb charge level. our mercedes which had literally half a million miles blew the coldest with 152 than anything else. plus i despise getting *** raped by product suppliers, 134 has nearly tripled in price over the last decade as i can retrofit and charge with 152 for less than $10 out of pocket.

the problem probably lies either within the HVAC logicon or the blower motor resistor. checking and cleaning the blower motor also isn't all that difficult.

turbowash

iTrader: (1)

Well I did my old 1957 frigidaire fridge with 152a today and so far so good! It's down in the 30s already and only been about 2 hours.

The only thing is, I believe on the last can, I unclamped the can tap before shutting off the valve. Did I just allow air to enter the system or did the check valve on the can tap close? Do I need to do it all over again so I can get the air out of the system? Everything sounds fine it seems, but I'm no expert.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Charged up the ol' Lexus LS400 with 2 cans of 154 (16oz). R12 Capacity was 36oz. This is the third car of mine I've done the conversion to, just wished there was a lower fan setting 'cause it's so damn cold!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the only time air can enter the system is while it is in a vaccum or atmospheric state, once you start feeding refrigerant it is rather difficult to introduce air into the system.

turbowash

iTrader: (1)

Great to hear, that's what I believe but this is my first time messing with anything of this nature.

Fridge is doing great! Woke up this morning to check it and it was 28 degrees. Had to adjust the thermostat more than I did with r12.

Next is the rx7..

Opposite Lock

iTrader: (2)

Jack, great info. MUCH appreciated. My A/C is working fine right now, but I know that won't be the case forever.

Seriously? CO2--the very thing they say is causing global warming will be used as a refrigerant!? That's as seriously screwed up as Jerry Garcia ties...

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

I thought it would be better to ask in here rather than make a new thread.
I have read this thread several times and the fsm.
The fsm calls for about 4oz of oil to be added to a new compressor. WHERE is the oil supposed to be added?
The inlet or outlet?
Or the plug in the middle of the top?

inflatablepets

Pull suction line offand pour it in.

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

I ask because this is what I did last time, and the compressor has been making a horrible noise and not putting out real well after that.

inflatablepets

What does that tell you then?

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

So if I have a system with freeze12 that is a little bit under charged can I add 152 and they are compatible? Or do I need to vac the system and charge with only 152?

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

it tells me that you don't know ****

And for the guy above^^ I was wondering that as well with R22 (home a/c)

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

Can somebody answer this please.

turbowash

iTrader: (1)

I'm no expert, but I don't believe your suppose to mix any kind of refrigerant. As cheap and efficient 152a is, just take the freeze 12 out and use just 152a. Just my 2 cents.

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

Is the oil compatable that comes with Freeze 12?

turbowash

iTrader: (1)

I have no idea, I'm not a expert.

My question is, I received me new drier today and it has two caps on the ends and is under pressure. So, do I just take off the caps and try not to let that much pressure out by putting on the AC lines with new o-rings quickly? I really don't see any other way it would be done?

inflatablepets

It is just inert gas to prevent moisture from ruining the dessicant inside. You still need to pump system down to boil the moisture out.

turbowash

iTrader: (1)

Got it, thanks! Does it matter which end goes to which line or is it universal?

turbowash

iTrader: (1)

Well I found the writing on the dryer stating "in", but which is line is the "in" line tht it connects too? My car originally had ac but all was removed and I pieced together a whole system so I never seen it installed before?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Trace the lines. The pipe that attaches to 'IN' goes toward the condenser and the compressor. The 'OUT' pipe goes toward the interior of the car.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

What oil comes with Freeze 12? IDK

Freeze12 is R134a (which is not compatible with mineral oil) combined with 142b (which is compatible with mineral oil). the 142 carries the original mineral oil through the system. It is a band-aid, but it works. the 142 also reduces the head pressure somewhat so it works better in our cars.

Ester oil is compatible with 134a, Freeze12, R12, and R152a. This is what I use. flush the old Mineral oil out replace with Ester and you are good for any refrigerant.

Don't just add extra oil to the system in hopes it will band-aide you problem. It will contribute to high head pressures and reduce system performance

Never ever use PAG.

Ever.

Ever.

REally!

-Jack

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Don't do it! R22 works at such different pressures and temperatures that you will actually degrade performance.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

OK-

IF the system is empty and completely clean, the full specified capacity of oil should be split in half. Half is added to the compressor, half is added to the dryer. Seal, Vacuum, charge.

If you are replacing the compressor and the dryer at the same time-you can assume the system is completely empty of oil.

If the system is NOT completely empty, it is a crap-shoot. Too much oil reduces system capacity, it can also slug your compressor on startup. Every dumbass with a system leak will add a can or two of oil with dye or 'leak sealer' to the system. Again, too much oil is bad!

FSM is assuming that the compressor is coming of a system with oil distrubuted through normal use. In that case, the compressor will have about 4 oz of oil sitting in it. Pull that compressor, add 4 oz to the new compressor and you are good to go.

Hope this helps.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You should let the Pope know about this. It's a miracle!