well that is right i have a broken manifold bolt,,has anyone ever dealt with this and fixed it on the car,,,the way i see it if there was a manifold bolt to be broken off this is the one,,it is the lower real one so at the very least it is the most accesable,,,i just put this motor in and i heard a leak so i tightened it and SNAP!! that was it for the bolt and now it leaks like a big ole bitch,,,is there a way to drill and tap this bitch with it still in the car,,,being how it si the lower rear and all


thanks for any advise in advance

 

Is it broken off flush with the rotor housing? If its broken off flush, make a trip to Home Depot and pick up an extractor set. Is it possible to get two nuts on what is remaining? Than put on two nuts and tighten them together. Use the one closest to the motor to pull the stud out by turning it counter clock-wise.

 

I wrestled with this one when i had the engine on the stand.

I was unable to extract the bolt.

And im VERY GOOD AT THIS.

I had to drill out the bolt and rethread it.

In hindsight....

I would have taken the shortblock to a machine shot and had thenm drill pres it out then place a threded collar in the housing.
then replace the stud with a origianl replacement part.

On the car is VERY HARD.

I wish you luck.

My best advice for you is from my experience...

If you know of a way that it can be done while still in the car, but it would take too much time to do it...

Do it anyway.

Dont half *** this.

You could start a crack that would dump your engine in 3000 miles.

 

I had the exact same problem with my car when I got it. I bought a very expensive set of reverse drill bits with extractors and used a right angle drill to get at it with it still in the car from the bottom. Go slow and have a helper spot your drilling frome a different angle to make sure it's going straight. You can go about 3/4" deep. Then try the extractor. Big PITA but it worked for me.

*Warning* Do not break the extractor off in the hole. They are hardened and cannot be drilled.

 

Just in case someone does not notice, this fine fellow has a turboII, so that makes it even harder to access if the manifold is left in place while trying to extract the broken stud.

 

I think the best bet would be use an extractor, a right angle drill would be about the only drill that would fit in there, if its broken pretty much flush to the surface, you can use a dremel to cut a slot in the stud for a screwdriver, but before going through with that, here is some other ideas..
warm the area up with a propane torch just warm enough to melt a candle on it, melt the candle aroundthe stud, the wax will suck into the threads via capillary action and lubricate the stud. Let it cool then pack a bit of ice in a bag on the stud and let it sit, when the stud is cold, warm the area AROUND the stud a bit with a torch, and turn the stud out... Don't get crazy with the torch, warm and red hot are 2 very different temperatures. I have cooled bolts and studs with dry ice before and removed bolts that would were siezed in with nothing more than finger pressure with this trick, if its done right.. But the wax works tremendously well..Max

 

MAXTHEMAN.....You people up there on URANUS are tricky little devils. Never heard of the wax deal before. Someday..

 

Thats a cool idea!!!!