So im getting my bridgeport 13b back this week and need some info from people who know what they are talking about. Ineed to know what all i need to get this bad boy running like which stand alone system is best, which injectors are best, (i have t2 primary and secondary right now) and any other extras i might need to make her run smooth. please help.

 

megasquirt should work fine and probably is the cheapest option if you solder it yourself

 

Wrong way to choose an EMS: Search the internet for opinions about which EMS is "the best", then spend $1,000-4,000 on an EMS and hope to find a tuner or attempt tuning it yourself. This is an especially bad idea when the purpose of the vehicle is not stated, and people who have never used the EMS recommend it based solely on "hearing great things" about it.

Right way to choose an EMS: Shop for a tuner who is willing to work with you and match the EMS and tuning to your desired goals and budget. Some things to discuss are idle quality, boost level, redline, air conditioning, OMP, closed loop, boost control, rev limiter, data logging, ignition options, automatic transmission, knock sensor, driving conditions (off road, full race, etc.), auxiliary inputs and outputs (traction control, water injection, speed sensors, anti-lag, etc.), and future upgrades. The brand doesn't matter much unless you are building a show car (or ricer) in which case the EMS color configuration or the sticker you put on the side of your car may matter more than mechanical function.

Each EMS has its own likes and dislikes for a given fuel injector layout, so don't shop for fuel injectors until you buy an EMS. You can use the below link to estimate the fuel injector sizes to support your engine, and don't forget to buy an aftermarket fuel pump. Your tuner should also be able to help you with the fuel system.
RC Fuel Injection

 

define best.... your T2 injectors will work fine, although the ev14 style injectors are better.

for an ECU, you need something that does sequential injection, and maybe injection angle too, otherwise its not really a step up from a carburetor.

 

Odd way of working...
Building an engine but not a clue what to do with it..?

 

^THIS, and I would add, buy the ECU from the tuner, or a dealer that is willing to work with you with any issues that may arise, or questions that you may have.

C.Ludwig has been awesome to deal with, look him up if you ever plan on going with a haltech.

 

I've been puttin around in my half bridge on a stock ecu for about 15k miles, heh.
But now I can afford an adaptronic ecu finally and start makin power hopefully.
Not ideal in anyway. But it can be done kinda if you're willing to deal with hot start flooding, no power, and 8 miles to the gallon

 

I tried the "wrong way"..that did not go very well.
I tried Rtek,almost all versions..I got little support..(if you can't tune it yourself,then too bad.,.yer Fu****)

I went the Right way after extensive research with Haltech and C Ludwig,.(lms-efi.com shameless free plug).
Although I still do not tune my car,at least there are others that are familiar with the ECU and can give you Tips,info,maps, and tuners are available.

 

Is this a track car?

Because the thing is, you'll never be able to take much advantage of that porting on a street car with an exhaust and intake that keeps the noise levels down to a usable point.

Bridgeports like nothing more than an open short intake (think ITBs) and a set of tuned headers merging at the back of the car with little in the way of restriction. Start putting mufflers on it which are anything but straight through and you will cut power dramatically due to the backpressure and reversion. Thing is, you'll get just as much noise from the intake so unless you build a well designed airbox to surround those ITBs, the whole car is going to sound like a million killer bees yet still be slower than a V6 Mustang.

Not knowing what irons the thing is built with means I'm sort of guessing here but most NA bridgeports make peak power above stock redline. Especially if it's a bridgeported 6 port. Your power peak is somewhere around 10K. Scatter sheild? A 4 port bridge makes great power from 5000 RPM up but again, without the intake/exhaust restrictions.

So while the idle is awesome, you may get tired of everyone asking you if your car is broken. Then you'll get tired of the 5 - 8 MPG it gets around town. Then you'll really get tired of being slower in a straight line than most of the large V6 sedans because your power peak is 4000 RPM higher than theirs and you're still only making 250HP.

However, to answer your question. Your TII injectors will be fine. They will easily provide enough fuel for that engine in street trim. Your standalone choice will mainly depend on what your tuner is familiar with.

An idle valve isn't going to do much good on a bridgeport except for warmup as the natural idle pulsing won't jive with most idle control algorithms. It's probably unlikely you are running A/C so a host of extra I/O isn't probably in issue. So even an ancient POS Microtech would do the job a zillion times better than a carburetor.

There is no best standalone. Only standalones that fit your requirements and have enough support so that you as a novice user have a chance of getting the carf even started. In that sense I'd suggest Haltech, Microtech and if you are a DIY type, Megasquirt.

Sequential isn't a requirement because even an ancient batch fire ECU is worlds better than a carb simply because of resolution, closed loop, etc.

 

because for the brap.

 

ok yes clearly i dont know exactly what im doing which is why im asking questions. The reason why i dont know what im doing is because all i have around me are DIY builders. There isnt a shop anywhere close to me that i can take or have come to the house for anything less than 500-1000 bucks. So that being said if someone that does work on fc that is willing to talk to me and give me better understanding of what i need to do to get my car going please pm me your number and we can text or i can call. I am wanting the car for as much power as i can get im not too worried about mpg cause im mainly going to use it for autocross and weekend cruising.

 

i have done a bunch of haltechs, and then when i did the P port i used the Weber IDA. contrary to what i would have thought the IDA/locked distributor on a P port basically runs like a stock car, it starts right up, idles @900rpm, cruise is 14's afr*, and gradually richens up to 11's @wot. in fact i put a wideband on my S4 NA, and it has almost the same fuel curve....

when look at the carb in EFI terminology, it does sequential injection, it has a separate TPS based idle map, which blends into speed density metering.

if i was to go EFI and actually make it an upgrade, resolution and closed loop aren't enough, i have that. what i do need is a more precisely timed injection event, which means sequential injection.


*the P port is more picky about fuel than a stock port. the stock port will basically run the same from 10:1 to 15:1 afr, the P port is basically 12 - 13.5:1, so @ cruise, 14:1 is basically the lean limit

 

Unfortunately if the car is an autocross car, then a bridgeporting isn't the way to go. Autocross relies on a smooth and flat powerband with enough grunt to pick the car up at any RPM. A bridgeport is peaky and depending on whether they are 6 port or 4 port irons, makes peak power near stock redline or above stock redline. And since most autocrosses are run in areas which are near population, the noise factor is going to be a big problem.

If you reread my post it covers some of the basics as to what you will need. It would help to know some basics about the car. Such as 4 port or 6 port. If you have a 4 port block, a TII set of intake manifolds actually works OK on a bridgeported car. Not great, but OK. While on a 6 port, your only realistic option is to go custom since the stock 6 port manifolds are tuned to the stock secondary and aux ports.

You may want to hit the NA subforum of the Performance section and see what others say. There are probably some setups you can look at.


With a peripheral port, I agree, it's a different story. But a lowly Bridgeport will be fine on batch injection. I've tuned a lot of bridgeports on old MS1s (batch fire) from tiny cuts to ports which have gone into the rotor housing a hair's width from the o-ring and they work fine on batch fire. That said, it's hard to find a batch fire ECU these days so the whole point might be moot. While obviously sequential is worlds better, batch fire still allowed the cars to start with a flick of the key, run 16s at cruise, drive around without pig-rooting, not foul up the air with exhaust, idle reasonably well and all that good stuff that EFI brings over carbs.

 

That is a typical price for base tuning, and fine tuning is even more expensive. I was going to recommend trying to find a good rotary carb tuner, but that will be about the same price. If you can't afford the tuning, then I think the best plan is to sell your engine and swap it out for one that will work well with your OEM EFI. As stated above, a bridge port is not optimal for your goals anyway. I recommend a mild street port.

 

my carb does that too...

 

best approach would be to street port the engine and start removing emissions in a manner that allows the intake ports to still function. running a bridge on a stock ECU will just make the car slower without a way to tune it, and even with a way to tune it requires knowledge of tuning with an EMS.

there really is no shortcuts or cheap ways of making power.