endneu913

iTrader: (5)

Been reading alot of threads about this, not finding exactly what i need. Ive just replaced my brake lines with Steel braided ones from racing beat.... while driving now, i have to pump the pedal at least once to get a good response at the calipers. The first pump drops about 1/2 way to the floor then starts to build pressure. After replacing the lines i obviously bled the lines (with 2 other people to help, one at the resivoir and one at the pedal, and me at the bleeder.) We pretty much got all the crap fluid out and no air left in the lines (or so i thought?) Previously ive had lock up problems as well. Anyone know the normal amount of pedal pressure it takes to lock up 4 pots? seems to easy, and its scawwwwy!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the proper bleeding process is RR, LR, RF, LF. bleeding in that order is essential. you were correct for getting all of the old fluid out but it seems that there's still air in the system.

endneu913

iTrader: (5)

Yes, i did bleed in that order, and definetely got all the crap out, so does the possibilty remain that i STILL have air in the lines? seems improbable, but ill try bleeding again soon. Also thinking about the Superbleeders from summit racing that a guy mentioned, just for fun....

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

try bleeding until nothing but clear new fluid comes out of each caliper. then you know that all of the old fluid is out and if the master cylinder was filled properly and no air was sucked in during the process, you should have all of the air out of the lines.

Amur_

What may also be happening is that one of your calipers is leaking internally. Yes, it may have coincidentally started right when you replaced the lines. When the pressure dropped a bit on my brakes on my last 7, I noticed a quiet wheezing sound from the front-left caliper when I bled the system. Replaced the caliper and the noise went away and the brake pedal was firm again.

If you bled the sys and you now have to pump the pedal, something is very wrong somewhere. Recheck all line connections and look your calipers over for signs of a leak. Also, your MC may be bypassing (leaking internally.)

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

You might want to check your rotors for run out. They may be pushing the pads back on a caliper just a little. That will take a pump to get them back to the rotor, meanwhile the other brake circuit is fine and will lock a wheel or two.

Rotary_Powerd

Help! My driver's side calipers froze! (sand and salt from a truck that went by during a snow storm). Went to drive it today and both brakes made a loud pop noise . When I braked my braking was severely limited. I pulled over and discovered low brake fluid I filled the reservoir back up and started pumping. But I can't seem to build pressure back up. Is this problem as simple as bleeding my brakes?

n1ko

if a caliper has frozen (piston does not retract) it needs to be replaced. check for leaks, because if you can't build pressure you don't have enough fluid or have air in your lines.

Rotary_Powerd

I meant to pads got stuck to the rotors. Sorry for the confusion, I'm going to try bleeding the lines. If that doesn't work I'll bleed the master cylinder (i think) and after that it's new calipers and lines.

endneu913

iTrader: (5)

Are they unstuck now? the pop was most likely them breaking free of the rotors.... ive had that happen when i wash my wheels.. then garage it for a day or so... they get rusted together... so to drive and POP. Doesnt explain your low fluid tho. sorry