I saw a couple pics in the book "Maximum boost" and thought this might be a neat idea to try.



This one would need a scoop instead of an air dam



Has anyone tried this before with thier FC? How did it work out?

 

well fc you got a under diffuser panal/cover.

Unless you want to remove it and keep your car at a stock ride hieght to let air pass underneath your car.

Not really ideal for a lowered car. Better idea would be to keep stock or front mount and wanna do a flat panal for aerodynamic purposes.

 

There's a UK member running that configuration on his FC, works well. Need to make sure its properly ducted and it will work just fine.

 

The thing is, why? There's plenty of room behind the bumper and when mounted in the bumper, the intercooler won't be damaged if you knock the front end in a parking lot...

 

Don't FMICs cause heat issues since they are in the way of the oil cooler and radiator?

 

anything that blocks air traveling to the radiator or the cooling system in the front will cause heat issue.

The only way to solve it with a fmic is to design the placement to be more efficient, with side ducts and splitters.

 

Or get a good core that flows well, and not be a cheapass.

 

or you can do that.
But it will still limit air flow. The best that you want is to have atleast the same flow of air as if you dont have the intercooler there. Its not impposible. it requires more work.

 

I have a fmic and koyo w/e-fan. Water temp never passed 210'F (on a very hot day), but usually runs around 180'f-200'f. I am planning to change my set up to v-mount (I think for an rx7 v-mount is the most ideal set up).

 

To answer why...

1. To do something different/not many other people will have a setup like this.

2. I think it has the potential to work very well

3. I don't want to take my front bumber off if i don't have to (I hate body work of any kind).



The way I see it, with a standard front mount the incoming air must pass through the IC first and then to the rad and oil cooler. But with the bottom mount, there is nothing directly blocking flow to the rad and oil cooler. You would get excellent flow through the IC without sacrificing flow through the rad and oil cooler.

I have taken a few measurements, and I figure that I could mount the IC low enough not to block flow to the oil cooler, but no lower than a front lip would go, so I could still lower the car a bit (no more than an inch or two).

 

Exhibit A: Ajhehr's Auto-x FC

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/request-autox-fc-%2A%2A%2Apics-753356/

 

sounds like a great idea if u wanna replace your inter cooler, every oil change.

this topic has been covered, theres only 2 locations that are more beneficial than FMIC,

1VMIC

and 2 im bias as it is my idea it has to do with a complete cooling system re design and improves several small things with the running of the car over long periods of time. but its ****** expensive and thermal dynamics is no a speciality of mine.
short note its a mid radiator design using a variable pitch stepper system on 2 BLDC motors with a fluctuating squrril box fan, and a ecu to tell **** what to do.

when used with split 16 row O/C and dry sump, you would have the full front to duct air into a low mounted smaller I/C and gain 167% over cooling efficiency, and improved air dispersal as well as a less turbulent underflow of air.

but its a ******* FC, i dont need these things.

what i want is a TMIC that can hang with 20PSI. my t bolts snap at 14psi, and the stock i/c has poor longevity, and the heat dispersal or rather soak at that point leaves much to me desired.

and BTW if you look at your drawing, you are killing your oil temp with fire.

this plan=Fail

 

Not in my experience.

I think many people who complain about FMICs blocking air are using broken stock clutch fans, or underpowered e-fans.

Though I have seen massive oil temps caused by one FMIC: the Greddy three row.

 

ok I want to comment here. I understand why everybody wants to follow the same rule, but I do have some personal information regarding the temps when going full FMIC. My car ran between 165-180f with an old e fan and no FMIC, when the new "curtain" huge style FMIC was installed temps got to a whooping 224f due to the blockage of air flow. I had to park the car several times with the hood opened to be able to get some air flow to come out thru the front panel by the coolant reservoir and relay/horns location. This is proof that a V mount would actually be very efficient with a vented hood. Much so too if it was bottom mounted (intercooler).

Why is it that I had to switch to a Ford Taurus fan to compensate for the blockage the new FMIC I just installed in my FC? Im not a big fan of putting a bigger fan as a band aid. I also considered the bottom mount Intercooler setup as I saw the same picture in Maximum boost about a week ago.

So basically Coolant temperatures went up in my car about 15 degrees average with the intercooler installed the REGULAR way. I had to get a bigger e fan (taurus), with ducting, venting the hood and cutting my bumper I bet I can get away from using a big fan like this. Doing a bottom mount would be another way without having to get a vented hood.

I really do not think this is a bad idea at all. Reason why most people dont do it is not because of intercooler damage, I seriously think its not done because of plain old not knowing that it works.

That drawing that UNSEEN showed is actually a pretty good rendering on the effects of flow. This is actually an upside down V mount configuration in which u dont have to worry about venting the hood.

BTW dont know if you all have done this ever for racing but we used to place bottom mounted oil coolers on FBs when switching from shorty radiators to big radiators, you configure the oil cooler as a bottom unit and let the radiator breathe a lot better. Its the same principle.

 

if he bottom mounts the oil cooler right with the intercooler that problem is solved also.

Upside down V mount setup.

 

I'm running a large 4" thick godspeed FMIC and I have zero trouble with oil or water temps. But I should mention that I built good ducting into all the heat exchangers.

Is there any provisions to force air to go through each seperate cooler? Or is the pulling action of you fan trying to do all that work?


Vented hood isn't even required on a V-mount setup. Would help yes, but you don't need one at all. Search for posts by BlueTII for more information.

No the idea is extremely sound and has been done many times successfully -but so have FMIC's. I seriously think people try to get around doing a front mount because no one knows how one of THOSE works, let alone a bottom mount configuration.

Search for BlueTII's v mount setup - no vented hood

 

classic I agree the vented hood is not needed. But it sure helps a lot. The reason I keep mentioning it is the simple fact that by letting the area on the relay/horn/reservoir breath makes such a difference when u put a front mount, with a V mount is even more noticeable as u technically block that with the intercooler.

About the provisions for venting the coolers in my car, no I did not, it was strictly a slap on job of a huge intercooler. Basically what 80% of the people do and fix by putting on a large efan <--band aid. So thats exactly my point, with a FMIC it is wise to duct also and do it right, not really difficult either. Im going to duct and fix all these too. No sense in overworking a fan if just ducting is enough to cool the engine correctly. I do drive the car daily so Im now always looking for reliability improvements. Today I managed to get the CLT temp in my logger to about 190f with the low setting on the Taurus fan. Its still within range but Im picky with temps, to me this is #1 killer of rotaries.

But I agree with what u mentioned. Specially this part "No the idea is extremely sound and has been done many times successfully -but so have FMIC's. I seriously think people try to get around doing a front mount because no one knows how one of THOSE works, let alone a bottom mount configuration."

 

paul ko's old yellow car would see 250F+ oil temps with the sparco front mount. i forget the fix, but bringing air flow to the oil cooler dropped temps to the 200F range.

this is on a roadrace track, not the street. street probably wouldnt be an issue

 

Holy **** 250F!

 

FMIC are good setups. Infact top 3 air/air setups. People dislike them bacause you could easily have over 3 to 4 ft. of piping.

 

I wasn't suggesting that there is anything wrong with FMICs, just that a BMIC (with proper ducting) isn't any worse. Since nobody can provide compelling evidence that BMICs won't work (some actually said they can work quite well) I think I'm gonna go ahead with it.

 

good on you mate, you can update us once its done. and prove some Naysayers wrong!

 

How is this even possible?

@Unseen...
The airflow you show in your diagram appears wildly optimistic.
You have it moving diagonally through the core and moving on into the oil cooler when in fact the air has to turn vertically through the matrix and then reintegrate with the main unimpeded flow through the nose opening.
Whether this is an issue or not, I have no idea.

 

clokker it ran, too cold but it ran. thicker rad core, no AC condensor, shitty e-fan, TMIC

Now car is running at a 190-200 range with a temp controller, taurus fan and a huge FMIC blocking the whole air flow.

 

No thermostat, I'm guessing?