Husemoller

Well I been having little problems with my 87 turbo. Was hoping it was just a fuel or spark problem. Turns out my rear rotor has 0 compression, or close to it. We used a piston checker and couldnt even get it to move. My front had 115compression still.

The engine has been rebuilt once I believe, I dont know for sure if it was rebuilt or a new remanufactured engine put into it. The previous owner wasnt sure either.

Should I send it to kevin and have it rebuilt you think? rebuild it my self, i have the how to rebuild movies. Guess I am wondering if it has been rebuilt once before is it worth rebuilding it again?

Well also I will be running around 12-13lbs of boost. I have SAFC and 660cc injectors right now in it. I didnt get it tuned though and had the tmic and my intake just sitting there sucking in the heatsoak basicly which could not have been good. I also was having some timing issues which i think was the main cause to my engine dieing. So now that I have to rebuild it or get a new engine, I am curious on what everyone thinks I should do to it. I want it to be a reliable vehicle running anywhere from 10-15(MAX) boost. Mainly 12-13, but I live up here in northern minnesota so the cold might get that boost up there a bit.

I am looking at getting
FMIC
custom cai
standalone

What else should I look into getting to make it a good reliable car. maybe ignition stuff?
What about apex seals, with that boost should I stay with 2mm or should i go with the 3mm?

Anyways I will be searching around some more for more information on this. Just give me some opinions and suggestions I should go for.
Thanks

Husemoller

I was just thinking, what about all that fancy fuel rails and braided lines and such. Is that something to think about now that I will have to take the engine apart?

this7stofast

I would definitely go with the 3 mm apex seals. or if you want to spend the extra $$$ then I would go with the double 1.5 apex seals(two 1.5 apex seals right next to each other for added hp and reliability) Honestly i dont know how much the braided lines do exept look really cool.

rs_1101

fuel rails, intake manifolds,and carb setups can be done with the motor in the car. once you crack her open, youll prolly know more, but im guessing.. depending on the miles.. that youre goingto need new housings.. at least in the rear.

Corbit

I would say if you want reliability and you have'nt rebuilt a motor yet you should think about sending it out to Kevin. He has a warrenty on his motors and does great work. just my 2 cents

Bob_The_Normal

Depending on your mechanical ability, rebuild is a PITA and lots of things that are easy to screw up...

Not to put it down too much but the Atkins video is no where near enough information for rebuilding... it helps a little... but mostly only helpful if you're replacing just about every part in the engine... more like a how to put together an engine with brand new pieces than a how to re-vamp your old engine.

Kevin will get it done fast, guarantee it, and for a good price... so unless you've just got lots of free time and no money (me) then just send it to him... =)

--Gary

300zx

I just wondering why you would say to go with the 3mm seals ? I personal wouldnt ever use 3mm seals there just bandaids.

Also what are you looking to get with your motor? make alot of horsepower? then make sure you get a good rebuild with 2mm seals. Have you ever thought of going ceramic like a cermet B housings and rotors and seals ? Maybe this is out of your budget but you sould look into it.

I well be building myself a ceramic motor over the winter. with help from the guy that makes the parts.

Husemoller

I am thinking of going with the RA seals. sounds like alot of ppl really like them.
I have never heard of having 2 1.5mm seals? can you explain a bit?

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Off the subject but I saw you were from duluth. I am from Fargo I just dont see to many TIIs in this general area. Just wanted to say hi.
Later and good luck with the TI.